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coolant seal savers, premature coolant seal failure prevention

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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 02:39 AM
  #26  
Tidge's Avatar
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From: Greenville, Ohio
I have the exact same issue on my 1990 13b. Do you recommend this over buying a used housing ? Do you actually sell used housings ?
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #27  
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From: west coast
this is super cool.

part of me wants you to take an old engine, toss these in and purposefully overheat it badly and then tear it down to see what happens, or more importantly DOESNT happen.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 08:57 PM
  #28  
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Tui
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From: California
Have you broken down an engine that has used these over a few years? Curious how they stand up.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:40 PM
  #29  
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The pictures are not working. Im curious
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 03:38 AM
  #30  
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I'll be having my engine rebuilt by Banzai-Racing in a couple weeks, hopefully... 87' TII with 60k on original motor. As I am seriously hoping there is no damage to the walls (it has internal leak), I do see it as a possibility. How bad would you say the irons would have to be for this to not be useful and just go with a new housing? Of course, either way I'll most likely be purchasing this if they have no issue installing them and keeping their warranty.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 08:29 AM
  #31  
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From: bloomington, mn
I like this. Ben, tore any of your guinea pigs down yet after a few years of being in the field? I will be tearing down my S5 Tii in the fall and depending on the walls, I will pick a set up if needed.
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Old Sep 30, 2014 | 08:46 PM
  #32  
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From: denvah
Ben I need another set of your viton coolant seal set as well as a set of savers for a project engine. Please get in touch with me asap. I'll give up my phone number too so we can chat.

The seal kit kicks **** indeed.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 03:09 PM
  #33  
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From: Central Florida
i only sold a few sets so i quit making them.


i do have the unwelded wire and a softer silicone seal material that will still work with them, but the liner would have to be glued to the irons with simple super glue/cyanoacrylate of 255F+. which really isn't that hard to accomplish.

anyways, i'd sell those DIY parts for half the original cost i asked in this just to get the stuff out of here. anyone who's intersted can IM me, i don't check these threads anymore.

the couple of customer's engines i tore apart never had walls break in the interim so my original test engine was all i had the basis for.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 5, 2015 at 03:20 PM.
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