satch

iTrader: (1)

Better yet, check the Brown/White wire at the TPS for voltage w/key to on w/the AFM plugged in and it should read about 5 volts. If it reads very low then disconnect the AFM and again recheck the voltage.

fiskblk1127

The voltage was high like 12 volts my engine wont start it keeps flooding and my oil pressure is low

fiskblk1127

Im starting to freak out a bit cause it ran perfect untill one of my tension bolts snapped and i replaced it only took 3 days all together to pull engine remove bent tension bolt and put the engine back in.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you measured the correct wire? And if you did measure the correct wire w/the AFM connected then what was its reading w/the AFM unplugged? Was there a change for the better?

fiskblk1127

Not sure about the setting on the meter,



and you mean the bottom very right wire correct? heres a picture of the meter where should it be set?

satch

iTrader: (1)

DCV 20 should do and it looks like you don't even have it set to any of the DCV settings.

fiskblk1127

Okay now my readings are like .4something then it shoots down 2 like negative 14.5 and thats off and on afm should i just replace the tb and afm?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Having a hard time understanding what this means. Red meter lead goes to the wire being tested and the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal.

fiskblk1127

Okay I retest the wires and they all had lower voltage than 5. Volts

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would try to find another AFM to test it with. go bug nader, he's probably got a pile of old junk FC parts still. turbo or non turbo it doesn't matter, it should still run just to test it with.

the 2 times i ran into an issue similar where the car would run without the AFM but not run with it, it was a faulty AFM.

i would also try jumpering the fuel pump test connector to be sure it isn't just the pump circuit inside the AFM or a vacuum leak turning the pump off.

fiskblk1127

Okay thanks for the help ill let everyone know how it goes. Im also gonna swap to my other throttle body just because it cant hurt just to be safe.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your throttlebody seems like the least of your worries but it's your car.

fiskblk1127

Gotcha dont fix what ain't broke

fiskblk1127

Okay I got the rx7 to idle and drove it one day but today... nothing. I cleaned and replaced the afm I just dont know what 2 do.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need 5 volts w/key to on at the Brown/White wire and you either have it or you do not. Which is it? And where did you get the replacement AFM from? And there is a way to test the AFM in the FSM.

fiskblk1127

No I dont have 5 volts on the new afm or the original. I got the replacement one from a friend of mine, and could I switch to a s4 afm or would I be stuck in the same situation?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The BR/W wire which is supposed to have 5 volts w/key to on connects to the TPS, Pressure Sensor and Metering Oil Pump besides the AFM. You need to disconnect all of these and measure the voltage on the BR/W wire w/key to on and see if you get the proper 5 volt reading required. If this is possible then reconnect one item at a time and after each item is reconnected measure for the proper voltage.

fiskblk1127

Okay I checked all the wires and it was the mop

fiskblk1127

Also my trailing spark plugs were covered in gas any thoughts on that?

fiskblk1127

Actually all my spark plugs were blackened heres a picture of them b4 I clean them

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever check for codes? You need the OMP working properly or it will cause mayhem w/your car.

fiskblk1127

I have not checked for codes cause I'm not sure where I plug in the snap on code reader

satch

iTrader: (1)

All you do is ground the Orange wire at the single wire check connector to the negative battery terminal and w/key to on the error codes will flash.

fiskblk1127

Do you have any video links or pictures for me to look at cause kinda lost.

fiskblk1127

This is the type of code reader I have dont know where to plug it in at