Richard Miller

I have seen numerous instructions on how to build a rotary from some brilliant minds. I have not seen a what to expect thread after the fact. So here one is.

What should one expect from a recent rebuild?

How long should it burn off the petroleum jelly or what ever build lube you use?

How long to expect smoke as seals set or embed in?

Anyways to tell if the build was a failure? "other than not starting"

Break in procedures?

Thanks for sharing !

OCDHerb

How close can you expect a rebuilt carb to be?

Is it likely to run rough for awhile?

Do they flood easily?

Thanks for the input.

Herb

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Best $30 you will spend on your car will be the MazdaTrix "How 2 rebuild a Rotary" DVD!!!!! There are just too many details that the OE Manual does not even BEGIN to touch on, that you need to know. I actually bought all THREE training DVD sets on the market: MazdaTrix (best value), Atkins (OK) and the New Zealand 3 Set DVD ($110) which is excellent and offers, obviously, the most detail. Yes these are all for the 13B, but the application is 12A for 95%

Good luck Lads!! I realize you are asking more about POST rebuild info here, so apologies. Not intending to side-track the Thread. Just wanted those checking here who are _considering_ their own build to get some ideas...

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

7aull

iTrader: (2)

BREAK IN - I leave this to an expert: Rob Gold at Pineapple Racing in Oregon. A loooong time rotary builder in the NW

Pineapple Racing
Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure

1. Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine:
a. Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
b. Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine. All oil lines should be attached. Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
c. Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.
d. Check for leaks.
e. The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.


2. After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
3. Check oil level.
4. Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.
5. Especially for turbocharged engines: make sure spark and fuel mapping are safe for engine break-in. We recommend the engine tuner prevent the engine from exceeding recommended break-in operation specifications.
6. For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.
7. Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
8. From 500 to 2000 miles, gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle.
9. Dyno-testing/tuning is the best way to get the most out of your new engine. While not necessary for non-turbo applications, it should be done for turbo cars.
10. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.

Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.

These instructions are not intended to supersede any other engine builder’s recommendations. They should have been chosen for their skill and knowledge. If they cannot provide you with the technical support you require, consider that the next time you look for an engine builder.

Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.

Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.



Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp. A well designed race car should be able to run these thinner oils. We have run 0w16 in full race circuit cars with great engine life.
For turbo cars, due to higher temps in limited area of the engine package, like inside the turbo we recommend 10w40 -20w50.

After Break in: For all but the street driven RX8, we recommend changing to synthetic oil like Mobile 1. The extended oil change cycle(for normal use) and its superior wear protection and heat transfer properties make it a great choice. For n/a applications I will run it for 1yr./12K miles between changes.
For the RX8, it’s tendency for carbon buildup makes a change to a synthetic oil a poor choice for all but the hardest driven cars. For turbo RX8 engines for street use dead dinosaur oil and 2000 – 2500mile oil changes are your best friend. For track use or extremely hard street use, synthetic oil in 10w40-20w50 is an option. It is a compromise of better oil protection vs. carbon buildup.








Stu

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If it is done right, very little drama. Really the only thing is that depending on the housing condition and seals used, it could take some time to come up to full compression as the seals bed in.

All of that stuff will burn off within a few minutes of running. But what ends up in the exhaust system could smoke for a while. Usually all clear after a few hours.

There shouldn't be any after all the lube burns off.

Lack of compression, radically uneven compression, drinking coolant, oil smoke, low oil pressure, seized engine.

Drive it easily for about 500KM then change the oil. Now drive it normally.

Richard Miller

thanks, there is some good info here.

thanks again.