Fool83

Hello fellow FD owners.

As the title says, is their a way or a actual write-up to completely eliminate the CPU 2 under the dash? The thing is i recently bought a 92 JDM FD RX-7 and I want to legalize it. Problem is my lights don't work anymore along with a few other things, all of which is essential to passing the safety portion of the inspection. I did the research on what the cause could be which lead me to the CPU 2. I decided to do like a few videos suggested and take it apart to examine the circuit because i was thinking that maybe a capacitor was leaking or something along those lines which I could fix. To my dismay it was worst thus requiring me to just buy a new CPU 2 all together (the board itself was fried).

Here is where the problem lies. I can find a CPU 2 with the label FD01 all day but what I have is one that is labeled as F100 and as many of you know, they are very different from one and or another.

I was thinking that maybe I could convert it over to the later model but I couldn't find any how to's on that process.

I thought well just buy a new one, but I can even find a part number for it let alone call a Mazda dealership, finding it thru their system and buying it brand new without getting the run around such as asking for my vin number.

I thought of maybe buying a used one but the only one I found so far is in Europe and they don't ship to Texas unfortunately. Also it ain't cheap and no return is posted in bold.

The only option I see is converting it to something else entirely. Is their a how to on that process?

Fool83

Better question I am thinking that I want to convert over to a later model CPU 2 harness, anyone have any idea on how to do that at least?

mikejokich

iTrader: (1)

Atkins Rotary sell the CPU#2 for $315 brand new. It isn't cheap but they have it. It is the FD01 version.
Mike

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Be careful, the original parts didn't just magically fry themselves. Most likely scenario is a previous owner did something dumb to the car's harness, and you need to find and fix whatever killed the original CPU2 in the first place or you'll just zap the new one. Someone posted a thread in the 3rd Gen section that sounds very similar to what you're looking at. They found and fixed a few different problems, hopefully they are getting close to having a fully functional car again: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...mlins-1121974/


The factory wiring diagrams are floating around the internet for the 1993 and 1994 US-market cars. I'm not sure how the Japan-market cars are similar or different, but a few hours reading the wiring diagrams and checking connections with a multimeter should help get a feel for it. Add a few more hours or days if you also need to learn how multimeters and wiring diagrams work. If the two different CPU2 designs happen to use the same connector, you might even be able to move wires around in the harness to make your car work with the CPU2 that you're able to get your hands on.

Fool83

Ok let me be more specific, her is what I have so their won't be any confusion.

the F100 and Fd01 have different plug styles but do the exact same thing.

I will upload pics later to show you exactly what I am talking about.

Fool83

F100 vs FD01



These are the CPU 2 for the RX-7 in question



F100 close up
this is the plugs for the F100


FD01 close up
Plugs for the FD01


As you can see, the plugs are plainly different along with the board but the specifications are the sames according to the plastic shell.

Also the blinker board in the front is also the same for both.

blinker CPU f100 vs FD01


This is what i am looking for but for an FD01 so that i can do the conversion...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-RX7-F...53.m1438.l2649

(BTW this one if for the F100 but i am just using it as an example)

Fool83

When you look at the 2 different boards, the thing that stands out to me is that on the FD01 does not have any power modules built in on the board itself unlike the F100 which as a power module and a plug that actually feeds power directly into the board.(Second pic. bottom of the board)