sherff

pre-edit: just changeing this post into my pre-assembly questionare since im about to start bolting things together just to clarify some things that i am thinking before i screw it up

I have finally got to the point where i am just about to put the engine back together, all my tolerances are checked and ok, all parts required for the block are here and laid out and i am planning on assembling tomorow (april 26/15)
i have pineapple raceings large street port template and have got it all "done" however some of my edges arent the prettiest, and by that i mean they arent perfect curves, there are no sharp burrs or anything, but they ended up slightly wavey just due to where i went a lil to deep with the dremel, and they arnt past my scribe lines (i left about 1/32 between where i cut to and the scribe line)

so my question is will this hurt me in the long run for reliability if i dont smooth them to the proper curve? im not sure if i want to go much deeper on them just in case i go to far

Also should i round the edges a bit or is ok if they are somewhat sharp 90° or will this make any diference.

and same questions for the exhaust ports as well, i went a little mild with the exhaust ports basically made them the same size as the sleeve

edit to add more: is it possible to use a belt sander to grind down side seals? or maybe some fine sandpaper with a sticky back stuck to a metal table (240, 400, 600 grit?) or should i just go find a stone and take my time

Edit some more for more: what should i use for a break in oil? i was running 15w40 royal purple fully synthetic, should i switch to mineral/conventional?

so i bought the atkins rotary video and they say to use the "hylomar" on the water jacket seals but there is an awsome youtube video (which i think is actually better than the atkins one as it goes into more detail) that shows useing vaseline on all the seals so im wondering are there any draw backs to useing hylomar on the seals?
link to the video on youtube:

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'd have to see pictures of the ports to make a judgement.

As for clearancing the side seals, I use a Dremel with a fine stone. My technique is shown in the video below:

These videos will help you in the process of rebuild a 13B or 12A engine. While they deal with an older 13B from an RX-5 Cosmo, the engine internals are basically the same for any 12A or 13B. The only real difference is that on engines newer than '85, the coolant O-rings are in the irons instead of the housings as shown in this video.

The first video is engine removal. While it is an RX-5 Cosmo, an car that few will ever see let alone work on, the process will give you the general idea of an engine removal. Steps are similar for most rotary vehicles, it's the details that differ.


The next video is engine disassembly and some cleaning. This is an old carbureted 13B so the accessories bolted to the engine are different than newer engines. However the process of externally disassembling any rotary is about the same. Covered here is also flywheel removal (same for any rotary) and engine parts cleaning.


Cleaning of all engine parts continues in this video. Provided here are examples of how this is accomplished with a minimum of tools and supplies. It's a lot of labor to clean old parts until they are looking new again. At the same time, parts should be inspected.


Finally, here is the engine assembly. This video includes clearancing side seals, assembling all the seals onto the rotor, then assembling all the parts into a 13B short block.


Hylomar is a sealant, while Vaseline just helps hold seals in place. Typically I prefer the sealing of Hylomar on the water seals due to potential pitting. However Vaseline does just fine and the seals will still do their job as long as the pitting is not extreme.

15W40 is thinner than I would run. I run 20W50 but that ends up rather thick in the fall/spring. Not suitable for driving through the winter.