Stop leak coolant products in Rotaries
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Tottenham, Ontario
Stop leak coolant products in Rotaries
My 90 s5 has started to have some white smoke come out the exhaust. I'm curious as to if anyone has used a stopleak type product and what your results were, also what product you used would be helpful.
Or maybe I should just give up and rebuild?
Or maybe I should just give up and rebuild?
Bar's leaks hed gasket and block seal. Designed specificaly for this application. I used it a year ago, after many redlines and other "spirited" driving it's still holding fine. I highly reccomend it.
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From: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
I used Stop Leak in an engine that I had. It worked great. I used it while I saved the money to rebuild the engine. It doesn't always work though, last weekend I pulled a friends engine out cause it was burning coolant. That stuff didn't work in his engine.
Oh, and burning coolant usually means broken coolant seal, which usually comes from the seal channel being broken. In the case of my friends engine, the front end plate inner seal channel had broken away and no longer supported the seal. Front plate now has to be replaced. The picture below is an example of what I'm talking about. I got the pic from www.mazdatrix.com
Oh, and burning coolant usually means broken coolant seal, which usually comes from the seal channel being broken. In the case of my friends engine, the front end plate inner seal channel had broken away and no longer supported the seal. Front plate now has to be replaced. The picture below is an example of what I'm talking about. I got the pic from www.mazdatrix.com
Last edited by Project84; Mar 10, 2006 at 05:46 PM.
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From: Temple, Texas (Central)
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Originally Posted by carzy driver
Do not use this stuff, will only make matters worst!! Fix it now by rebuilding or order a Mazda reman.
if it works then cool,.. if it dosn't, then rebuild.
I'm about to try this on my Vert.
It only smokes at startup, then stops once it warms up.
a friend did it on his TII a couple of years ago, Worked great & its still ok.
Last edited by 13angryB's; Mar 10, 2006 at 06:24 PM.
How will it make a blown engine worse? By restoring it to a drivable condition instead of sitting waiting to be rebuilt? How many engines have been ruined not by the coolant seal going, but from sitting for months with coolant in the combustion chamber while the owner was saving up for an expensive fix? If you don't like it, don't use it, but don't scare a member away from having a drivable car for under $10 just because you would rather do somthing else.
I didn't say the stuff doesn't work. If I only hac my camera when I pulled the head on my S10 due to a blown head gasket. the previous owner used barsleak and it only made matters worst. It turned the thermostat into a rock, pluged the radiator to the point I had to get a new one, same with the heater core. It took four days to clean the head using a fexible pick and an air compressor. I just tore down an TII longblock that had a leaky coolant seal and the owner put stop leak into, plugged the thermostat, waterpump, turbo and coolant lines, and about 60% of the water passages. This is why I say to fix it now.
I've had no cooling problems whatsoever, and that's in 100 degree summer heat. If you follow the directions you shouldn't have any problems. I know good, honest, very experienced mechanics who swear by this stuff.
Last edited by Jaguarx7; Mar 10, 2006 at 06:55 PM.
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From: Kicking down doors in a neighborhood near you
I used this stuff.

It tells you how much to use based on a 4 or 8 cylinder engine. Obviously this doesn't apply to rotaries so I used a little at a time until the engine was no longer burning coolant. My engine was burning so much coolant that it wouldn't start. I actually drove it with not coolant in the system because that was the only way to get it from the dealer's lot to my house (I bought it cheap cause their mechanics didn't know how to fix it). I added coolant and this bars leak stuff and it was able to drive with out flooding the combustion chamber with coolant/water. When I did rebuild that engine 3 months later, it didn't plug up any of the other holes.
This is me and my experience. It's not a "Use it and it will work" garuntee, this is just what I've experience.

It tells you how much to use based on a 4 or 8 cylinder engine. Obviously this doesn't apply to rotaries so I used a little at a time until the engine was no longer burning coolant. My engine was burning so much coolant that it wouldn't start. I actually drove it with not coolant in the system because that was the only way to get it from the dealer's lot to my house (I bought it cheap cause their mechanics didn't know how to fix it). I added coolant and this bars leak stuff and it was able to drive with out flooding the combustion chamber with coolant/water. When I did rebuild that engine 3 months later, it didn't plug up any of the other holes.
This is me and my experience. It's not a "Use it and it will work" garuntee, this is just what I've experience.
^ that stuff is the ****. saved me from replacing radiators on armored FMTV while i was in iraq. everytime the driver had coolant leak problems i always used 2 of these bottles. when i first arrived we were replacing radiators left and right because of the extreme conditions the solder on top and bottem of the core would leak. Waiting time for a new radiator was 2 months go get into country. We ordered 10 boxes of that stuff, 2 bottes per vehicles if it leaks and we had no problems since.
Last edited by AF1; Mar 14, 2006 at 01:29 PM.
I had a leaky head gasket on my mazda b4000 truck and bought some of that to try. I read the directions and they are pretty involved and require that the user follow the directions. I ended up selling the truck before I tried it but I'll bet if you dont fully drain and flush the coolant system you get results like carzy driver said. I would go for it, just make sure you follow the directions.
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