fstrnyou

Three of the plugs look nearly the same. Worn center electrode...tip is almost perfectly rounded off and surrounding electrodes worn back but not too terribly bad and a flat black/sooty look to them. Both leading plugs have brown looking deposits. But there is that one plug that baffles me. The rear leading plug. The center electrode is still sharp edged but the surrounding electrodes are worn way back. You can also see the white spots from where i broke off the large deposits. What gives??? Why the odd wear on the electrodes?

I guess it stands to note that I think these plugs have nearly 30k miles on them. It's hard to say really, can't remember when I last changed them. Could be as low as 20k miles. Whatever the case may be, I've been running 10-12psi for about a month now with stock injectors. Still stock turbo and TMIC with intake, exhaust, and streetport.

I tried to take a close up of it but my old as crap digital camera won't focus it. And it's only 1.3MP, so if i were to take a clear picture, zooming in would only look like crap again.

Beast From The East

Well, 30K miles is the end of life for these things anyway, and you've got extra goodies added. What ECU are you using, and what if any ignition? I found the PFC oil metering pump settings to be too high which would foul stock plugs fast. I'm now using a Wolf with TII coils and 10.5 Racing NGKs. The first 8K miles and the plugs look excellent. Also what AFR's do you have?

Beast

fstrnyou

ECU? Stock w/ Rtek1.5
Ingition? Stock
Timing? Stock
Plugs? Stock ----> BUR#EQ 7's & 9's The leading plugs i took out were Platinums. Put regular back in.
Wires? Magnecor
AFRs? Don't have a clue!! But it runs great.

Beast From The East

Based on past experience, your plugs look normally worn - they just don't last 30K miles, even on stock. Why? Our gas these days is soooo dry and has so many additives, it's tough on plugs. I would pull your plugs at each oil change (I do, every 2K miles) and just watch them - I bet you won't get more than 20K.

Rtek 1.5 = ? is that pre-mix?

Anyway, the rear rotor runs hotter than the front as well, esp if you are stock and have all the restrictive covers, hoses, shields, and other clutter that came with the stock setup. I run a 13 BRE single turbo stripped of all that stuff, and relocated the coils to the side of the motor vs. the top so there is better circulation around the block AND the heat from the top of the motor doesn't cook the ignition system.

The picture is pretty small, so that's the best I can give you based on what I see. Stock plugs are cheap, so just change them at 15K.

Beast

fstrnyou

well, i have TurboII, so my coils are well out of the way. But the TMIC kinda puts some heat on the motor.

the three looked very normal, it's jsut that one plug that wore opposite of the others. burned up the four outer tabs rather than the center electrode. it's just wierd.

Rtek is an ECU chip. all it really does for me is eliminate fuel cut and ups the fuel input slightly through changing the code in the chip. i think it increases the primary duty cycle by 5% or so and lowers the secondary activation from 3800 to 3500. my racing beat FCD failed on me and this thing costs about the same.