Secondary Injectors Not Working,Fried resistor?
05-12-17, 05:58 PM
#1
Secondary Injectors Not Working,Fried resistor?
Car is an 88 Turbo, stock injectors,recently was diagnosing an issue and switched from my n332 ecu to a n333,not knowing the difference between them being one was designed for high impedance injectors and the other low.
After taking it for a test ride with the n333 I quickly realized the secondaries weren't working and swapped back to my Rtek 2.1 N332 ecu, hoping i hadnt fried anything in the n333 ecu,but i mustve fried something else in the car because the secondaries still are not coming on,even after tuning them to come on at 2500 rpm the car still hits 3800 then goes super lean/loses all the power like you would expect.
Im about to grab my multimeter and go see what i can find now,starting with the injectors. But because my cars an early 88 i was wondering if it would have an injector resistor box and if i should check that aswell. Thanks in advance to anyone who offers advice
After taking it for a test ride with the n333 I quickly realized the secondaries weren't working and swapped back to my Rtek 2.1 N332 ecu, hoping i hadnt fried anything in the n333 ecu,but i mustve fried something else in the car because the secondaries still are not coming on,even after tuning them to come on at 2500 rpm the car still hits 3800 then goes super lean/loses all the power like you would expect.
Im about to grab my multimeter and go see what i can find now,starting with the injectors. But because my cars an early 88 i was wondering if it would have an injector resistor box and if i should check that aswell. Thanks in advance to anyone who offers advice
05-13-17, 12:50 AM
#2
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They are basically the SAME.
The N333 and 332 see HI resistance anyways..so the resistor pack with LO's OR the HI impedance injectors is the only real difference..but at the end of the day ADD the Resistor pack And LO's and you get HI resistance for the ECU to see.
See if you can dig up SOLAREON's map in the RTEK section and compare your to it.
The N333 and 332 see HI resistance anyways..so the resistor pack with LO's OR the HI impedance injectors is the only real difference..but at the end of the day ADD the Resistor pack And LO's and you get HI resistance for the ECU to see.
See if you can dig up SOLAREON's map in the RTEK section and compare your to it.
05-13-17, 09:54 AM
#3
They are basically the SAME.
The N333 and 332 see HI resistance anyways..so the resistor pack with LO's OR the HI impedance injectors is the only real difference..but at the end of the day ADD the Resistor pack And LO's and you get HI resistance for the ECU to see.
See if you can dig up SOLAREON's map in the RTEK section and compare your to it.
The N333 and 332 see HI resistance anyways..so the resistor pack with LO's OR the HI impedance injectors is the only real difference..but at the end of the day ADD the Resistor pack And LO's and you get HI resistance for the ECU to see.
See if you can dig up SOLAREON's map in the RTEK section and compare your to it.
Just unplugged the diode thats connected by the ecu,that failed the multimeter test. Going to find a replacement for it and go from there
Last edited by Joethefo; 05-13-17 at 11:33 AM.
05-15-17, 05:50 PM
#4
So some things I've done,triple checked timing. Tried a few different actually timing maps on the rtek,new o2 sensor. I checked the fuel resistor box for resistance according to manual,although one of them came back as higher then it was supposed to(manual said 0) I was told that it would never be zero.
If i unplug the battery and go for a drive the problem goes away,then comes back after I go for another ride. I guess next I'll check the fuel pump wiring but it doesn't seem like a connection issue,more like the cars going into a limp mode for some reason.
If i unplug the battery and go for a drive the problem goes away,then comes back after I go for another ride. I guess next I'll check the fuel pump wiring but it doesn't seem like a connection issue,more like the cars going into a limp mode for some reason.
05-17-17, 07:36 PM
#5
Hm maybe I shouldve posted this in the second gen section instead?
Anyway my theory about resetting the battery makes the problem go away was false,it has no effect. I cant imagine its a bad connection to the fuel pump because up until 3800rpm it runs great even under high load/boost. Afrs are where they should be until 3800. I guess ill try to find a resistor box and see if that has any effect
Anyway my theory about resetting the battery makes the problem go away was false,it has no effect. I cant imagine its a bad connection to the fuel pump because up until 3800rpm it runs great even under high load/boost. Afrs are where they should be until 3800. I guess ill try to find a resistor box and see if that has any effect
Last edited by Joethefo; 05-17-17 at 08:09 PM.