s5 TPS trouble
s5 TPS trouble
I have a 1991 s5 the check engine light was on with the orig. tps I got another one . but the car is running slower.my mech. sez the tps has to be set with a special tool true or false , or is there a way around it . the is slow between 80 and 103 were it will max . Insted if maxing at 130 or 140 or were ever . the motor is a reman from mazda. I need some help badly.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 42
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From: oahu
hey i just did mine about 2 days ago. so here you go.
NEVER use a +12v "test light" on a test connector. These pull lots of current and will fry the engine computer!
for this you should use a miltimeter
1.Warm up the engine to proper operating temperature
2.Stop the engine and remove the key.
3.Ground the "Test/check connector" if you can find it. Don't sweat it too much if you cannot find it, I don't think it makes a difference.
4.Insert the key and turn to the ignition position. (Do NOT start.)
5.Find the green 3-pin connector between the intake air filter box, and the right front strut tower.
It should look roughly like this:
---------
| A | B |
---------
\ C /
-----
C is "hot" or positive. A and B are (switched) ground. Hook your tester up with the positive lead in C. Only one side (A or B) should get to 12V. If both A and B read 12V, or if neither do, you've got some adjusting to do...
6.Adjusting... - Find the slotted screw (also has a locking nut on the back, and very fine threads) on the TPS. The TPS is located in the front, center of the intake plenium. It is right smack in the middle of the engine compartment, right in front of the intake. (Kinda sticking its tongue out at you.) There are two small black round "plungers" mounted on it. The one closest to the front is the NARROW range sensor. If you turn the throttle you'll notice it is completely extended at less than 1/2 throttle. Then one in the back is the FULL range sensor. This one measures the entire throttle range.
7.Once you have found the parts, you begin playing a simple game. The game is to try to get only one socket (a/b) to be "active", with the other one dead. If you turn the screw and listen for clicks, you can also tell when you've passed a threshold. Hook the meter up to one of the sockets and turn the screw 1-2 turns. If nothing happened, try the other socket. Something should have changed. (They probably went from both off to both on, or vice-versa.) There is only about 1/2 turn of "usable" range where only 1 side will be active. I usually find this range, then "blip" the accel a few times to make sure the throttle has really settled. Keep repeating this process, turn, blip, measure both sides - until you are satisfied you have found the "center".
8.Chances are it took you so long to figure this out the engine got cold. Take another test drive, and see if there is an improvement.
9.ALWAYS do a final test (step 7) again once you are back from the test drive. The hotter engine will change the tolerances of the TPS, and you want then set with a warm/hot engine.
and if this doesn't help do a search on TPS adjusting on the forums, theres lots of info on it.
NEVER use a +12v "test light" on a test connector. These pull lots of current and will fry the engine computer!
for this you should use a miltimeter
1.Warm up the engine to proper operating temperature
2.Stop the engine and remove the key.
3.Ground the "Test/check connector" if you can find it. Don't sweat it too much if you cannot find it, I don't think it makes a difference.
4.Insert the key and turn to the ignition position. (Do NOT start.)
5.Find the green 3-pin connector between the intake air filter box, and the right front strut tower.
It should look roughly like this:
---------
| A | B |
---------
\ C /
-----
C is "hot" or positive. A and B are (switched) ground. Hook your tester up with the positive lead in C. Only one side (A or B) should get to 12V. If both A and B read 12V, or if neither do, you've got some adjusting to do...
6.Adjusting... - Find the slotted screw (also has a locking nut on the back, and very fine threads) on the TPS. The TPS is located in the front, center of the intake plenium. It is right smack in the middle of the engine compartment, right in front of the intake. (Kinda sticking its tongue out at you.) There are two small black round "plungers" mounted on it. The one closest to the front is the NARROW range sensor. If you turn the throttle you'll notice it is completely extended at less than 1/2 throttle. Then one in the back is the FULL range sensor. This one measures the entire throttle range.
7.Once you have found the parts, you begin playing a simple game. The game is to try to get only one socket (a/b) to be "active", with the other one dead. If you turn the screw and listen for clicks, you can also tell when you've passed a threshold. Hook the meter up to one of the sockets and turn the screw 1-2 turns. If nothing happened, try the other socket. Something should have changed. (They probably went from both off to both on, or vice-versa.) There is only about 1/2 turn of "usable" range where only 1 side will be active. I usually find this range, then "blip" the accel a few times to make sure the throttle has really settled. Keep repeating this process, turn, blip, measure both sides - until you are satisfied you have found the "center".
8.Chances are it took you so long to figure this out the engine got cold. Take another test drive, and see if there is an improvement.
9.ALWAYS do a final test (step 7) again once you are back from the test drive. The hotter engine will change the tolerances of the TPS, and you want then set with a warm/hot engine.
and if this doesn't help do a search on TPS adjusting on the forums, theres lots of info on it.
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FC3S Timmy
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