I had one pulley-to-hub bolt broken and stuck in the hub. It has been drilled out..Is it even ok to retap it? If so should all 4 holes be retapped to the same size to retain balance?

 

It won't knock it off balance enough with another size up bolt.

If you are really worried..2 options..drill them all the same OR take the pulley hub off and replace it.(Read up on that before you do it as there is a vital bearing involved and if it slips it causes damage.)
Remember though that the bolt pattern is "offset" on the hub..meaning it is not a perfect 4 bolt square pattern.
ONE bolt on the hub and pulley setup is slightly askew so that the pulley will only go on ONE way..the correct way,so your timing mark at the pulley will always be where it should be.
The main 19mm eccentric bolt is torqued on fairly tight so expect that when trying to remove it.(like a couple hundred foot pounds)

 

Thank you for the input. I had a feeling a retap would be ok on a rotary...I'm past the teardown and am getting things ready for a rebuild of an s4 n/a.

 

I'd just replace the hub.Screw it..done,over ..where's the beer.
Playing dentist by drilling bolt holes on the hub just uses up valuable drinking time!..or whatever you are into..lol!

 

if you get it out decently clean, just use a tap to clean up most of the threads. I usually use Loctite on those types of parts even if the threading was not damaged

 

Lets hypothetically say I was in the same situation. Someone may or may not have tried to retap it and it ended up at an angle and broke through the outter edge. What would be any recommended tips for replacing the hub and pulley on an FC T2? Does the clutch trick really work?

 

I would fix it on the car. You could do a timesert or helicoil on the car, but be careful of damaging the seal behind it.

Worst case you can probably have a machine shop with a mil drill the hole straight and have it helicoiled

 

No one has said anything about timing marks being off if you swap a different pulley or hub into your car. They are a matched set from the factory and swapping one part or the other could move the marks some 7 degrees or so one direction or the other.

 

My game plan was to pick up a new hub/pulley set from Malloy Mazda due to them being roughly 5-10 minutes away from me. I am just concerned that the torrington bearing will drop out of place as the engine is already in the car. Pulley bolt heads snapped off when removing to install FFE trigger wheel.

OP: sorry for jacking your thread!

 

FYI for everyone that see's this.

The main pulley/hub set is NLA for an S4 T2, just got off the phone with Ray. So if anyone has a set they're willing to let go of let me know! hah.

 

No apologies needed. I think it seems relevant to the original post. Plus now i know of another part which is NLA through Mazda. It almost feels like playing the lottery when i go to my local dealership with a list of part numbers.