Please help
03-19-14, 09:54 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please help
Hey I know I'm asking the same questions that's been asked a hundred times but I'm running out of possible answers....
First I have an 88 t2
120 miles on streetported rebuild
All emissions have been removed, fmic, t04e turbo, custom down pipe no cat, factory o2. Factory ecu and injectors. Aluminum radiator, electric fan. Factory ignition. Walboro 255 pump. No rat nest.
Ok every since first start I had a problem with hesitation and miss at low idle.
I checked and repaired any ground problems and made a couple new grounds. I started to play with the afm flap. It had no not icicle problem but after that I put it back and the car ran smooth. So I decided to test run and the car pulled very well, very strong. No miss no hesitate. I pulled till about 7 k rpm. On decell the car bogged down and cut out.
Now it running like it has a bad seal. Hard to start but starts*. But no power and not really drivable even for normal driving .
Now I've checked compression. 95 on both rotors. Nice even bumps across all seals. I've did all the resistence tests on the afm and the tps and they theoretically should be working fine. I have good spark and fuel pressure.
Where should I go from here
Injector flow testing?? Ecu swapping ???
Any help would be helpfull
First I have an 88 t2
120 miles on streetported rebuild
All emissions have been removed, fmic, t04e turbo, custom down pipe no cat, factory o2. Factory ecu and injectors. Aluminum radiator, electric fan. Factory ignition. Walboro 255 pump. No rat nest.
Ok every since first start I had a problem with hesitation and miss at low idle.
I checked and repaired any ground problems and made a couple new grounds. I started to play with the afm flap. It had no not icicle problem but after that I put it back and the car ran smooth. So I decided to test run and the car pulled very well, very strong. No miss no hesitate. I pulled till about 7 k rpm. On decell the car bogged down and cut out.
Now it running like it has a bad seal. Hard to start but starts*. But no power and not really drivable even for normal driving .
Now I've checked compression. 95 on both rotors. Nice even bumps across all seals. I've did all the resistence tests on the afm and the tps and they theoretically should be working fine. I have good spark and fuel pressure.
Where should I go from here
Injector flow testing?? Ecu swapping ???
Any help would be helpfull
03-23-14, 09:03 AM
#2
Rotating Performance.
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Miami, FL.
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi,
With all the amount of mods & work done, I would say your next step is a ECU (after market). I didn't notice on your list of mods a FCD for the stock ECU which cuts fuel to the secondaries injectors after X amount of boost (I think 6lbs).
You can pick up a number of ecu's for dirt cheap, MS2, microtech, Haltech. This is just my .02 cause with that many upgrades your next steps are: ECU, wideband & secondary injectors.
Chris.
Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club
With all the amount of mods & work done, I would say your next step is a ECU (after market). I didn't notice on your list of mods a FCD for the stock ECU which cuts fuel to the secondaries injectors after X amount of boost (I think 6lbs).
You can pick up a number of ecu's for dirt cheap, MS2, microtech, Haltech. This is just my .02 cause with that many upgrades your next steps are: ECU, wideband & secondary injectors.
Chris.
Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club
03-23-14, 03:36 PM
#3
you have a bit more research to do because you built the perfect rotary engine grenade. just well enough to make it feel like it's doing its job, but not adequate enough to withstand it for long.
if you did the compression test properly and the engine is still intact then your next likely issue is an intake hose popped off or an injector connector came loose.
once you do find the problem STOP, read and learn the tuning threads and more about what it takes to build a car and be sure it has enough to fuel with fuel trim devices and tuning aids like a wideband O2 sensor. otherwise you will just waste the engine. you can't just bolt on a bunch of go fast items and make power, everything has to jive and that takes more than just a wrench.
if you did the compression test properly and the engine is still intact then your next likely issue is an intake hose popped off or an injector connector came loose.
once you do find the problem STOP, read and learn the tuning threads and more about what it takes to build a car and be sure it has enough to fuel with fuel trim devices and tuning aids like a wideband O2 sensor. otherwise you will just waste the engine. you can't just bolt on a bunch of go fast items and make power, everything has to jive and that takes more than just a wrench.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-23-14 at 03:38 PM.
03-25-14, 01:01 AM
#4
you have a bit more research to do because you built the perfect rotary engine grenade. just well enough to make it feel like it's doing its job, but not adequate enough to withstand it for long.
if you did the compression test properly and the engine is still intact then your next likely issue is an intake hose popped off or an injector connector came loose.
once you do find the problem STOP, read and learn the tuning threads and more about what it takes to build a car and be sure it has enough to fuel with fuel trim devices and tuning aids like a wideband O2 sensor. otherwise you will just waste the engine. you can't just bolt on a bunch of go fast items and make power, everything has to jive and that takes more than just a wrench.
if you did the compression test properly and the engine is still intact then your next likely issue is an intake hose popped off or an injector connector came loose.
once you do find the problem STOP, read and learn the tuning threads and more about what it takes to build a car and be sure it has enough to fuel with fuel trim devices and tuning aids like a wideband O2 sensor. otherwise you will just waste the engine. you can't just bolt on a bunch of go fast items and make power, everything has to jive and that takes more than just a wrench.
Hello my name is Matt, Mo, 88? And 91? RX-7 owner, brand new to RX7 anything really, want to know what i have exacty any way to look up vin, and engine numbers?
03-25-14, 12:30 PM
#5
the 2nd generation section has sticky threads which will help you identify the car, a carfax report or the title will tell you the year of the car, and inside the door jamb on the manufacturing label is the build date of the car.
the engine number is useless, since only mazda can cross reference the engine number to a particular car. rotary engines don't have an engine serial number to match the VIN on the car, like many other manufacturers use. that said the number is just jibberish if you try to find it listed somewhere in association with your car.
the engine number is useless, since only mazda can cross reference the engine number to a particular car. rotary engines don't have an engine serial number to match the VIN on the car, like many other manufacturers use. that said the number is just jibberish if you try to find it listed somewhere in association with your car.