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low beams dont work fc3s

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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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From: Virginia
low beams dont work fc3s

well in my vert fc, the low beams dont work for some reason. as soon as i turn the headlight switch so they come on its automatically high beams. and the high beam lever isnt stuck either. anybody know what the problem could be?
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 08:17 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
The Dimmer Relay is located in front of the radiator and has 5 wires. Two Red/Green, Red/Black, Red/White and a White wire. Red/Green powers the relay. R/B powers the low beam filament of the headlight. R/W powers the high beam filament of the headlight. The White wire causes the lights to be switched from low beam to high beam and vis versa.

In your situation as you describe it the pulling back on the lever should cause the White wire of the relay to tell the relay to power the R/B wire and not the R/W wire but in your situation this is not happening. The relay could be the cause here as it could be stuck or perhaps the White wire has a constant ground to it when it should not. The lever causes a ground when pulled back. When the lever is pulled back again to disengage the high beams the White wire then loses its ground signal.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 02:05 AM
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From: Virginia
thanks man i'll take a look tomorrow 👍 thanks for the detailed response
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 03:04 PM
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From: Virginia
going to bump this thread because it seems my white wire has a constant ground. does anybody know where the white wire leads to?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
The White wire connects to a Red/Green wire at connector FC-02 which then runs to the dimmer switch. There are two R/G wires at this switch. One runs to the headlight relay while the other runs to the dimmer relay. A continuity test will tell you which one to focus on. This wire gets the ground from the dimmer switch. Apparently yours is stuck in the high beam mode (does not matter whether it clicks or not). Only other possibility is the wire is accidentally grounded out. A continuity to ground test would tell you if this were the case.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 04:36 PM
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From: Virginia
thank you. am i searching for voltage from the red/green wires and the white wire? what exactly am i looking for. thanks again
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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i guess im looking for resistance. i suck with electrical work so bear with me. where am i going to be connecting the multimeter to, to check for continuity for the 2 red/green wires and the single white wire?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
At the dimmer switch plug. Plug disconnected. One meter lead to one of the R/G wires. Other meter lead to the White wire at the relay (unplugged). W/the meter set to continuity if the meter rings out then you selected the correct wire. If not, try the other R/G wire. When you get one of the two wires to ring out then you can take that R/G wire and place one meter lead to it. Take the other meter lead and place it to a ground source. Negative battery terminal is always a good ground. W/meter set to continuity the meter would ring out 'if' the wire is accidentally grounded out. Instead of using the correct R/G wire at the dimmer switch you could use the White wire at the dimmer relay and the negative battery terminal as your continuity points (achieves same goal in testing of the White or R/G wire to see if is grounded out or not).
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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From: Virginia
thank you. and by ringing out you mean 0.00 ohms correct? what should i do if one of the wires has resistance?
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Ringing out as meaning the meter will emit a high pitched screeching sound which you cannot possibly miss. You want an example of this sound? W/the meter set to continuity place both meter leads together and you'll see what I mean.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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From: Virginia
i never new they had a sound. im gonna try it tomorrow before work since we didnt have a voltmeter here for some reason. thanks once again
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