I've got a idle problem
03-26-04, 06:09 PM
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I've got a idle problem
Well, my problem is that my won't idle. When I start up the car, when the revs go down, it just shuts off. I can't figure whats wrong with it. My friend said it might of jump timing, but my dad said the people at the auto store said rx7s don't have timing belts. So, if anyone every had this problem or know what to do with it, I really need help. My dad wired down the throttle, so it says around 1,500 rpms, and it accelerates slower than normal, just for addition information.
03-26-04, 08:47 PM
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It has a timing gear which cannot "jump timing" unless a tooth on the gear is broken. I've never seen that happen.
Did the car run good yesterday, then today it doesn't idle? Check for vacuum leaks. Check the Haynes manual for how to adjust the idle. Haynes manual can be purchased at any automotive store. If they don't have one for RX-7s (probably won't) then they will be able order it. No car owner should be without that manual. You can also download the factory service manual online for free. Haynes has better pictures though.
www.iluvmyrx7.com
www.teamfc3s.org
Did the car run good yesterday, then today it doesn't idle? Check for vacuum leaks. Check the Haynes manual for how to adjust the idle. Haynes manual can be purchased at any automotive store. If they don't have one for RX-7s (probably won't) then they will be able order it. No car owner should be without that manual. You can also download the factory service manual online for free. Haynes has better pictures though.
www.iluvmyrx7.com
www.teamfc3s.org
Last edited by Project84; 03-26-04 at 08:52 PM.
03-27-04, 09:32 AM
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I let my friend drive it, and he was pushing it. And I guess something happen then. When we got back to his house, we was just talking for a little, then we went to drive again, and the car seem like it wasn't getting power and it would stop off let at a stop sign or whatever.
03-29-04, 01:24 PM
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CRAP! Now its hard to start the car. We have to use our other car to push start, and there is a whole lot of oil. Like on the flywheel, thats what my father. I'm not sure where else. But the car is leaking on my garage floor. Does anyone know?
03-31-04, 12:25 AM
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Maybe your friend thought that roatry engines don't have a redline and tried to rev it up until something broke. Unlikely, but a possability.
DO A TUNE-UP. New spark plugs, wires, and adjust your TPS and idle mixture. Do a search on this site to lean how.
There's only a few places rotaries leak. there are two oil lines that go to an oil cooler. These lines connect to the driver's side of the engine, and they're big and black. One has a banjo bolt (the rear one) and the other has a compression fitting on it (front of the engine). There is an oil seal right behind the flywheel. There is an oil seal at the main pulley. There are various devices on the oil pan, and just under the oil filter that can leak. The oil pan gasket may be leaking. The oil filter pedistal may be leaking. The Oil Metering Pump may be leaking or have a cracked/broken line. If you want to pinpoint the leak, get an ultraviolet (black) light and some dye. Or have a shop figure it out.
Okay, when the car won't idle correctly, then, in general, you're not getting the proper air/fuel mixture or improper spark. Now, keep in mind that you MAY have blown an apex seal.
To Check for a blown apex sealRemove the top spark plugs and listen for 6 even spurts of air. If two or more spurts sound even remotely different, then you've most likely got a bad/stuck apex seal/side seal/corner piece/corner plug. You should hear six even *PSSSHT* sounds. If you hear two *pfffft* sounds, it's a bad thing.
After the field apex seal test, now comes the gritty stuff. This can be a VERY complex problem. Anything from vacuum hoses down to a single resistor inside the computer could be bad. Start with the basics.
Vacuum leaks. Just because a hose LOOKS good, doesn't mean it is. Testing them with starting fluid or whatever doesn't always work, and the only sure-fire way to fix this is to replace ALL the hoses (even the ones on the vacuum rack, and the ones for the oil injectors). All the check-valves should have an arrow on them to indicate airflow direction. Test them and make sure they don't leak (except for the one that operates the double-throttle mechanism).
Does the engine have good spark to all 4 plugs? If you hold the rubber boot of the coil-side of the wires, you can pull them out. Hold the wire about 1/2" away from the terminal and you should see a nice spark and hear an electrical *snap*. Don't get your fingers too close to the metal of the wire, or you may get a zap. Oh, hold one hand behind your back.
Next, test the fuel pump. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Jumper (short-out) the yellow connector with a black rubber boot around it. You should hear the pump whirr. If not, then you'll probably hear air bubbles inside the fuel rails. If nothing still, remove the fuel line coming from the Fuel pressure regulator (front of engine, passenger side, top rail). You should see fuel coming from there when you jumper the wire. If not, the you've got a fuel system problem.
Get a cheap multimeter (any electronics store like radio shack, or most automotive stores), and a shop manual (like Project84 told you to get). Test every sensor/device as it describes in the book. Remember, there is no "close enough" or "good enough" for a sensor. If it's bad, it's bad. But with a cleap multimeter, it's okay to cut it a little slack (say 0 - .7 ohms).
After all the electrical stuff has been checked, It's time to Test the wiring harness. This usually involves removing the engine harness (passenger side; it's simple to do) and testing every used connector. Make sure to go through EVERY pin on the ECU side of the harness to check for shorts. The manual comes in handy here, as there should be a few ground wires that short.
Take apart the ECU/EGI/PCM whatever you want to call it (passenger side; lift the carpet where you'd typically rest your feet). Look for obviously burned things.
By this time, if you haven't fixed it, you probably won't ever be able to. Take it to someone who knows what they're doing (read: A rotary-specific shop or a fellow rotorite) and have them diagnose it.
Good luck,
Matt
DO A TUNE-UP. New spark plugs, wires, and adjust your TPS and idle mixture. Do a search on this site to lean how.
There's only a few places rotaries leak. there are two oil lines that go to an oil cooler. These lines connect to the driver's side of the engine, and they're big and black. One has a banjo bolt (the rear one) and the other has a compression fitting on it (front of the engine). There is an oil seal right behind the flywheel. There is an oil seal at the main pulley. There are various devices on the oil pan, and just under the oil filter that can leak. The oil pan gasket may be leaking. The oil filter pedistal may be leaking. The Oil Metering Pump may be leaking or have a cracked/broken line. If you want to pinpoint the leak, get an ultraviolet (black) light and some dye. Or have a shop figure it out.
Okay, when the car won't idle correctly, then, in general, you're not getting the proper air/fuel mixture or improper spark. Now, keep in mind that you MAY have blown an apex seal.
To Check for a blown apex sealRemove the top spark plugs and listen for 6 even spurts of air. If two or more spurts sound even remotely different, then you've most likely got a bad/stuck apex seal/side seal/corner piece/corner plug. You should hear six even *PSSSHT* sounds. If you hear two *pfffft* sounds, it's a bad thing.
After the field apex seal test, now comes the gritty stuff. This can be a VERY complex problem. Anything from vacuum hoses down to a single resistor inside the computer could be bad. Start with the basics.
Vacuum leaks. Just because a hose LOOKS good, doesn't mean it is. Testing them with starting fluid or whatever doesn't always work, and the only sure-fire way to fix this is to replace ALL the hoses (even the ones on the vacuum rack, and the ones for the oil injectors). All the check-valves should have an arrow on them to indicate airflow direction. Test them and make sure they don't leak (except for the one that operates the double-throttle mechanism).
Does the engine have good spark to all 4 plugs? If you hold the rubber boot of the coil-side of the wires, you can pull them out. Hold the wire about 1/2" away from the terminal and you should see a nice spark and hear an electrical *snap*. Don't get your fingers too close to the metal of the wire, or you may get a zap. Oh, hold one hand behind your back.
Next, test the fuel pump. Turn the key to the "ON" position. Jumper (short-out) the yellow connector with a black rubber boot around it. You should hear the pump whirr. If not, then you'll probably hear air bubbles inside the fuel rails. If nothing still, remove the fuel line coming from the Fuel pressure regulator (front of engine, passenger side, top rail). You should see fuel coming from there when you jumper the wire. If not, the you've got a fuel system problem.
Get a cheap multimeter (any electronics store like radio shack, or most automotive stores), and a shop manual (like Project84 told you to get). Test every sensor/device as it describes in the book. Remember, there is no "close enough" or "good enough" for a sensor. If it's bad, it's bad. But with a cleap multimeter, it's okay to cut it a little slack (say 0 - .7 ohms).
After all the electrical stuff has been checked, It's time to Test the wiring harness. This usually involves removing the engine harness (passenger side; it's simple to do) and testing every used connector. Make sure to go through EVERY pin on the ECU side of the harness to check for shorts. The manual comes in handy here, as there should be a few ground wires that short.
Take apart the ECU/EGI/PCM whatever you want to call it (passenger side; lift the carpet where you'd typically rest your feet). Look for obviously burned things.
By this time, if you haven't fixed it, you probably won't ever be able to. Take it to someone who knows what they're doing (read: A rotary-specific shop or a fellow rotorite) and have them diagnose it.
Good luck,
Matt
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