Input shaft go bad because of condensation ?
Input shaft go bad because of condensation ?
So I just had my trans replaced , I bought a used trans from the list of craigs supposedly the trans worked just fine before the previous owner swapped it out since he was going 2j
The trans seems to of been in storage for 2 years or so . and no trans fluid in there
Fast forward to today new trans is in the car , the gears shift much better then my old trans no grinding everything is smooth , the trans shifts like a low millage trans that the previous owner claims it was .
BUT the input shaft is making alot of noise specially in first gear .
Is this something that might be caused because of condensation / rust ?
is there a chance that it will go away or am I SOL ?
The trans seems to of been in storage for 2 years or so . and no trans fluid in there
Fast forward to today new trans is in the car , the gears shift much better then my old trans no grinding everything is smooth , the trans shifts like a low millage trans that the previous owner claims it was .
BUT the input shaft is making alot of noise specially in first gear .
Is this something that might be caused because of condensation / rust ?
is there a chance that it will go away or am I SOL ?
Information from Racing Beat
Transmission Maintenance
Whenever the transmission is removed several "preventative maintenance" steps should be performed.
First, lightly lube all the pivots on the clutch fork with heavy grease. Next, inspect the throwout bearing for roughness in the bearing: push in on the bearing when checking it. If there is any doubt as to its condition, replace it with a Mazda stock part. These stock components are very durable; however, if you run out of "free play" on the slave cylinder pushrod the bearing may prematurely fail. This problem can usually be identified by deep grooves worn in the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers. Wipe a bit of heavy grease into the recess inside the throwout bearing so that it will slide easily on its guide.
Always change the transmission front seal (and gasket when applicable) any time the transmission has been removed and replaced. In our experience, when a transmission is removed, the input shaft tends to hang up temporarily on the eccentric shaft. This distorts the front transmission seal slightly and can cause leakage. While the same replacement recommendation applies to the rear transmission seal this item can be replaced with the transmission in place with a minimum of trouble.
On two occasions, cars with "scratchy" transmission synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. But, because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to "break in" a transmission, or limited slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil for a time to ensure rapid "break in".
Transmission Maintenance
Whenever the transmission is removed several "preventative maintenance" steps should be performed.
First, lightly lube all the pivots on the clutch fork with heavy grease. Next, inspect the throwout bearing for roughness in the bearing: push in on the bearing when checking it. If there is any doubt as to its condition, replace it with a Mazda stock part. These stock components are very durable; however, if you run out of "free play" on the slave cylinder pushrod the bearing may prematurely fail. This problem can usually be identified by deep grooves worn in the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers. Wipe a bit of heavy grease into the recess inside the throwout bearing so that it will slide easily on its guide.
Always change the transmission front seal (and gasket when applicable) any time the transmission has been removed and replaced. In our experience, when a transmission is removed, the input shaft tends to hang up temporarily on the eccentric shaft. This distorts the front transmission seal slightly and can cause leakage. While the same replacement recommendation applies to the rear transmission seal this item can be replaced with the transmission in place with a minimum of trouble.
On two occasions, cars with "scratchy" transmission synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. But, because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to "break in" a transmission, or limited slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil for a time to ensure rapid "break in".
Information from Racing Beat
Transmission Maintenance
Whenever the transmission is removed several "preventative maintenance" steps should be performed.
First, lightly lube all the pivots on the clutch fork with heavy grease. Next, inspect the throwout bearing for roughness in the bearing: push in on the bearing when checking it. If there is any doubt as to its condition, replace it with a Mazda stock part. These stock components are very durable; however, if you run out of "free play" on the slave cylinder pushrod the bearing may prematurely fail. This problem can usually be identified by deep grooves worn in the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers. Wipe a bit of heavy grease into the recess inside the throwout bearing so that it will slide easily on its guide.
Always change the transmission front seal (and gasket when applicable) any time the transmission has been removed and replaced. In our experience, when a transmission is removed, the input shaft tends to hang up temporarily on the eccentric shaft. This distorts the front transmission seal slightly and can cause leakage. While the same replacement recommendation applies to the rear transmission seal this item can be replaced with the transmission in place with a minimum of trouble.
On two occasions, cars with "scratchy" transmission synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. But, because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to "break in" a transmission, or limited slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil for a time to ensure rapid "break in".
Transmission Maintenance
Whenever the transmission is removed several "preventative maintenance" steps should be performed.
First, lightly lube all the pivots on the clutch fork with heavy grease. Next, inspect the throwout bearing for roughness in the bearing: push in on the bearing when checking it. If there is any doubt as to its condition, replace it with a Mazda stock part. These stock components are very durable; however, if you run out of "free play" on the slave cylinder pushrod the bearing may prematurely fail. This problem can usually be identified by deep grooves worn in the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers. Wipe a bit of heavy grease into the recess inside the throwout bearing so that it will slide easily on its guide.
Always change the transmission front seal (and gasket when applicable) any time the transmission has been removed and replaced. In our experience, when a transmission is removed, the input shaft tends to hang up temporarily on the eccentric shaft. This distorts the front transmission seal slightly and can cause leakage. While the same replacement recommendation applies to the rear transmission seal this item can be replaced with the transmission in place with a minimum of trouble.
On two occasions, cars with "scratchy" transmission synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. But, because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to "break in" a transmission, or limited slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil for a time to ensure rapid "break in".
Now if anyone has any input I had a Broken PPF could that cause my fifth gear to pop out while cruising which was the initial reason why I bought a new trans . Thinking the trans had gone bad , But then we realized the broken PPF . and swapped the trans as well JUST IN CASE , But ended up this trans is much worse then my old one .
does anyone have any ideas or opinions?
ideally rebuilding the trans would be the best , but i'm short on time . I'm trying to decide should I go with the bad input shaft bearing trans , or should I risk the fifth gear pop out trans . and hope it was popping out because of the Broken PPF
It's unlikely that the broken PPF was causing the issue unless the shifter was moving over when you accelerated and hitting the tranny tunnel seal. So the shifter would be physically pushed out of 5th.
It's more likely that the 5th gear dog teeth and sliding lock ring are damaged.
I know how annoying the input shaft bearing noise is. But may be best for now unless you like holding the shifter in gear on the highway.
It's more likely that the 5th gear dog teeth and sliding lock ring are damaged.
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