JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

In one of the rotary forums there was a thread about this. I searched around a little but didn't find it.

Their product line:
http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resou.../products.html

Here's what I know: The hylomar formula has changed. It used to stay tacky, but now it hardens.

Here is what I don't know: When you buy hylomar in rebuild kits or from suppliers (Atkins, RA, Pineapple, etc) what formula are you getting? Hylomar Universal Blue or Hylomar M?

From reading their product line Advanced Formula sounds like their old formula.

I ordered all my rebuild parts and forgot to order hylomar. I'm thinking I'll simply go to the parts store and order it. Which should I order and will one tube be enough for one rebuild? How much does it really matter which of the formula used?

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

Personally I use Blue. Good enough for jet engines good enough for a rotary, since they are somewhat related. But seriously the original formula was blue as well.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Just got back from the store. I found some universal blue racing formula at a local parts store. I also found a 5 yr old thread about hylomar. In that thread, a link to atkins and universal blue racing formula. I have a question, this formula is acetone based, wouldn't that be bad for water seals? Obviously it's safe if atkins is selling it, I'm simply curious about the science behind it. I'm assuming it's low amounts of acetone and it evaporates out during setting?

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

you can but shouldn't use hylomar on your water seals. When I use it I only put it on the legs and around the dowel pins. That's how I was taught and how I continue to build my engines. You use petroleum jelly for the water seals grooves, just make sure you keep the water passages as clean as possible. you don't want it floating around in your coolant system.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

I use Crisco to hold the water seals and o-rings in place.

Doesn't leave the mess that hylomar does and doesn't swell the o-rings like Vaseline does.

silverfdturbo6port

iTrader: (26)

permatex high tack

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

I never would have thought of using Crisco. I guess it's true you really do learn something new every day. I've never run into swelling issues with Vaseline. But when I'm assembling an engine I usually hunker down and get the job done. Plus I use aftermarket water seals as well. I suppose that could be the difference between our styles as well.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ The vaseline doesn't swell the stock water seals but it does swell aftermarket water seals (Pineapple, etc), oil seals, and dowel pin o-rings.

Crisco works great for engine assembly. However, I think vaseline is perfect for rotor assembly since it holds the hard seals and springs in place better.

Hylomar is just messy junk and ends up stuck on me, in the cooling system, and on the face plates no matter how careful I am. Crisco disappears as soon as it gets warm.

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

I suppose it's just the way your taught. but I will be giving the Crisco thing a try on the next engine I build. I don't usually have issues with Hyolomar because I use a syringe. Are you using the encapsulated o-rings ? I hate those things. I always seem to get the ones that don't fit the way I like. at least the ones in a kit. I love the Mcmaster Carr ones that fit though.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

Always use Mazda O-rings. They work fine.

Ditch the syringe of hylomar and get a tub of crisco - good for 100 rebuilds.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ Rebuilding the Lemon last weekend. Crisco for the water seals.

7dust

iTrader: (14)

^^^ RX7Nut_13B shows that Crisco also makes a nice engine rebuilding snack!