there r many 13bs that can produce this hp, i wounder what differs from a stock 13b.

besides:

porting.
clearanced bearings.
high pres. oil. regulator.
3 window bearings.

 

We offer stud kits for high hp engines...

 

ceramic rotors, ceramic housings, ceramic apex seals, super huge race port, and finally NOS man. did you ever see vin diesel i'm pretty sure his had about 800 hp.

 

...about $10,000.


-Ted

 

technobabble much?

And yeah, Ive been curious about just what exactly there is to 'beef up' in a rotary for high-power builds except for opening up the airflow unless you wanna kick up the boost, getting the engine built to rev higher, etc.

 

dynamic balance the shaft and rotors.

 

send the engine to get modified by some of the best rotary specialists mechanics in Puerto Rico. You will get more than 800hp without NOS.

 

On what kind of gas, for how many Weeks ??

 

87 octane with a 50k warranty

 

^^^
that's pretty funny

 

for the amount of money you'd have to dump into a 13b, it'd probably be more worthwhile to just use a 20b. more torque

 

My two cents on a 800HP+ build up.

1) start with a 13B-rew engine ($1300)
2) Have the block machined and studs in place of all the tension bolts ($1000+600)
3) 120 psi oil reg. ($120)
4) Change out the rotors to 8.5:1 compression from a 87-88 TII engine ($300 used)
4.5) Machine out factory rotors to 3mm and balance ($600)
5) Use either 3mm NRS ceramic seals, or PTS 3mm(near unbreakable) seals($1,200)
6) do a nice large street port ($0-300)
7) Use Weber Jets in the E-shaft ($6.00)
8) make sure everything is clearanced to race spec ($0-300)
9) Race rotor bearings, the FD stationary bearings already are race bearings ($190)
10) All new springs and gaskets ($800)

Grand total- $6,116 - 6,716 depending on how much work you do yourself.

Guys running this setup get between 100-300 passes before the springs and gaskets need changed ($800) for each rebuild. Rotarys can be cheap.

 

According to an RX-7 tuning book I have, a heavily modified 20B enough tuning for 1000 HP at max can "easily" reach 800 HP and still have a long lifespan (in terms of races I assume...).

If you factor in all the costs of rebuilds for motors popped while tuning and testing, you'd probably be ahead in the end :p

Also, you're NUTS if you think you can tune a 13B to 800 HP for 6K (for more than about 3 seconds).

 

hell you don't even need all that. the main difference in going from 500hp to 800hp will be using straight race gas and the proper turbo with a lot of boost. T U N I N G

people have made over 600rwhp on stock rew's.

with any setup of this hp, don't expect a daily driver and it lasting very long

 

everyone always forgets about the transmission..which is about another 7k..

 

+2435809

 

Don't forget about the huge turbo you'll have to run ($1.5K-$2K), manifold, intercooler..........as you can see the list doesnt stop.

 

Ok...no one mentioned a HUGE turbo + manifold combo, FUEL to support it (fuel pump, SS lines, big injectors, standalone, +$3,000 or more just for this), TUNING, tranny, big *** tires, intercooler, and theres so much more...You basically need to replace ALMOST every mechanical peice on the car.

 

This is all very true, but the question he implied was what is needed for the 13B engine itself to handle 800hp.

 

I love threads like this. I love it when guys just arbitrarily pick some random insane HP number. "How much $$$ to get 535 hp?" or "How much $$$ to get 615 hp?" Why 800? What made you pick 800? Seriously, wtf do you need to run 800 HP for? You putting it in a Supra or something?

Me, I want 400. Why? Because it's about double the stock power. And, doubling the power is fun, yet driveable. 800 hp, somebody's been watching too much TV.

 

Amen to that brother!

 

Yup, alot of funds and patience.

 

First, you need to learn how to build a 140 hp 13b.

 

350WHP for me, its a nice number, very driveable, probably cheap to attain, more than enough to dust 3/4 of the cars on the road in edmonton.

 

About 10K........