how to biuld 800 hp 13b?
 

there r many 13bs that can produce this hp, i wounder what differs from a stock 13b.

besides:

porting.
clearanced bearings.
high pres. oil. regulator.
3 window bearings.

We offer stud kits for high hp engines...

ceramic rotors, ceramic housings, ceramic apex seals, super huge race port, and finally NOS man. did you ever see vin diesel i'm pretty sure his had about 800 hp.

...about $10,000.


-Ted

technobabble much?

And yeah, Ive been curious about just what exactly there is to 'beef up' in a rotary for high-power builds except for opening up the airflow unless you wanna kick up the boost, getting the engine built to rev higher, etc.

dynamic balance the shaft and rotors.

send the engine to get modified by some of the best rotary specialists mechanics in Puerto Rico. You will get more than 800hp without NOS.

On what kind of gas, for how many Weeks :rlaugh: ??

87 octane with a 50k warranty :p:

^^^
that's pretty funny

for the amount of money you'd have to dump into a 13b, it'd probably be more worthwhile to just use a 20b. more torque

My two cents on a 800HP+ build up.

1) start with a 13B-rew engine ($1300)
2) Have the block machined and studs in place of all the tension bolts ($1000+600)
3) 120 psi oil reg. ($120)
4) Change out the rotors to 8.5:1 compression from a 87-88 TII engine ($300 used)
4.5) Machine out factory rotors to 3mm and balance ($600)
5) Use either 3mm NRS ceramic seals, or PTS 3mm(near unbreakable) seals($1,200)
6) do a nice large street port ($0-300)
7) Use Weber Jets in the E-shaft ($6.00)
8) make sure everything is clearanced to race spec ($0-300)
9) Race rotor bearings, the FD stationary bearings already are race bearings ($190)
10) All new springs and gaskets ($800)

Grand total- $6,116 - 6,716 depending on how much work you do yourself.

Guys running this setup get between 100-300 passes before the springs and gaskets need changed ($800) for each rebuild. Rotarys can be cheap.

According to an RX-7 tuning book I have, a heavily modified 20B enough tuning for 1000 HP at max can "easily" reach 800 HP and still have a long lifespan (in terms of races I assume...).

If you factor in all the costs of rebuilds for motors popped while tuning and testing, you'd probably be ahead in the end :p

Also, you're NUTS if you think you can tune a 13B to 800 HP for 6K (for more than about 3 seconds).

hell you don't even need all that. the main difference in going from 500hp to 800hp will be using straight race gas and the proper turbo with a lot of boost. T U N I N G

people have made over 600rwhp on stock rew's.

with any setup of this hp, don't expect a daily driver and it lasting very long ;)

everyone always forgets about the transmission..which is about another 7k..

+2435809

Don't forget about the huge turbo you'll have to run ($1.5K-$2K), manifold, intercooler..........as you can see the list doesnt stop.

Ok...no one mentioned a HUGE turbo + manifold combo, FUEL to support it (fuel pump, SS lines, big injectors, standalone, +$3,000 or more just for this), TUNING, tranny, big ass tires, intercooler, and theres so much more...You basically need to replace ALMOST every mechanical peice on the car.

This is all very true, but the question he implied was what is needed for the 13B engine itself to handle 800hp.

I love threads like this. I love it when guys just arbitrarily pick some random insane HP number. "How much $$$ to get 535 hp?" or "How much $$$ to get 615 hp?" Why 800? What made you pick 800? Seriously, wtf do you need to run 800 HP for? You putting it in a Supra or something?

Me, I want 400. Why? Because it's about double the stock power. And, doubling the power is fun, yet driveable. 800 hp, somebody's been watching too much TV.

Amen to that brother!
:jump:

Yup, alot of funds and patience.

First, you need to learn how to build a 140 hp 13b.

350WHP for me, its a nice number, very driveable, probably cheap to attain, more than enough to dust 3/4 of the cars on the road in edmonton.

About 10K........ :mad:

350 whp is plenty to have fun with.
400-450 just feels plain nice :)

anything above that i wouldn't run on pump gas, at least not in a daily driver on california 91 octane.

Yanno with most motors you can generally figure out what part fails when and why.

With rotaries that kind of information seems really hard to come by.

i've gotten way too used to 400 and 500 hp cars :( feels slow to me now which is why i have a turbo v8 in a little fb. i don't blame someone for wanting 800hp... but i wouldn't be dumping all my funds in to a 2 rotor. just step up to the 20b and it will be cake.

Exactly. Why strain and stress a two rotor when big power is easy to come by with either a 20B or a V-8? I'd rather have a large, comfortable motor than a small straining one.

BTW, something tells me that an 800 h.p. 3 rotor and an 800 h.p. 2 rotor will cost about the same, but the 3 rotor will make the power easier, also be far more reliable, and last longer, too.

and full re-build + LSD which will probably be shot to pieces with that kind of power.

nonsense. there aren't that many things that can go wrong... oil failure, pre-ignition, or detonation.

oil failure tears up the bearings, e-shaft, and sometimes irons.

pre-ignition takes care of apex seals and sometimes cracks the irons at the dowel pins

detonation does the apex seals, and can crack the irons at really high hp levels.

how to build a 800hp 13B??
 

This thread has a lot of Drama. You should just learn like the rest of us. You have to blow them to hell sometimes to figure what went wrong.To learn to build 800 hp motors not just rotarys, You have to know more than asking Stupid Questions Like the one here.

a cheaper way to get 800 to the wheels would be to grab an ls2, stroke it out to 400 cubes and add a blower.

OR, a even cheaper way is to use two high compression hampsters, and feed them some nuclear power!! Yeah, thats at least 900 worth of hp.

now why didn't i think of that?

you dont even need to stroke it.
edit: whoops didnt see WHP, nevermind.

maybe YOU don't need to stroke it, but i quite enjoy it :p:

that probably could end up costing just as much

gurantee you it'd be more reliable

well ill tell you this. I work in a sandrail shop and we got in an ls2 with a whipple blower. The thing did 840 crank hp. That was just an out of control machine, instant boost and shitloads of torque. The thing had me shittin bricks, its good I was only a passanger on that one, I would have killed myself.

That engine was nearly $30k

Parts failures from something fucking up are different from simply exceeding the strength of a given part.

At least with the "piston" motors I work on, you can generally find out the given limit of parts of the rotating assembly, and the block, to either torque or rpms... and the valve train generally has its own limits to handling higher rpms and/or crazy ramp rates, etc.

So yeah, if I know at what rpms the rod bolts give out, or what torque or rpm level the rods themselves will give out, and whatnot, it helps me decide what I need to replace depending on what kind of build Im doing.


Now, what you're talking about amounts to oil starvation (which can kill any motor...) and preignition. Im talking about the limits of individual PARTS.

Yanno, such as the stock stationary gear doesnt like to go past 8,000 rpms that much, the e-shaft after a given rpm range, etc, etc... right? Same for oiling mods and clearancing parts for higher rpm use.

But what I was asking for is when does a given part in a rotary actually fail from too much torque/power? It seems to be that the only real failure items (unless you knock like a dingbat) is... the seals, and granted you dont detonate they'll last, albeit with vastly increased wear if youre going crazy with the power.

See what I mean now?

i saw what you meant in the first place.

the rotor faces can collapse from detonation. apex seals and side seals break, etc...

if something goes wrong, you either detonated, had an oil problem, or spun it too fast. there's nothing special to the forensics of dead rotaries.

Forget it kids, all you have to do is, remove the rubber hose that connects to the wastegate, and floor the living hell out of it! oh yea dont forget to put the VTEC stickers. They add 150+ more hp's. See that was easy. And if anything happens to the motor. Park it on front of "Guitarjunkies" house.

i'll call glenn and we'll do another 12 hour pull-rebuild-install.

you need NAWWWS..... 2 bottles, the "big ones" :lol:

That's the point, basically. There are only 3 moving parts in a 2 rotor engine, and 4 in a 3 rotor. There aren't the moving parts like rod bolts, or a valve train, or anything like that in a rotary. It's Just the rotors and E shaft.

Someone said earlier that the 13b e-shaft will start to chatter and could break at around 8.5k-9k or something like that. There's an RPM limit for you.

The rotors themselves are solid metal so it's gonna be tough to break those so that RPM limit is gonna be really high.

Basically the only things that go wrong on a rotary are things like the seals (the big weak point for high RPMs, as you noticed) and the little gasketts and other factors outside the internals of the engine. There's not much to do to them, you port the intake and exhaust, make sure the seals are strong enough for what you want to do, and go to town.

Do you live your life a 1/4 mile at a time.....

Every number is an arbitary number unless it has some relevance. So drumming up 800hp or 801hp has the same probability unless this person would like to know ROUGHLY what is intended to build an engine of that capability. Give it a break.

[QUOTE=BigJeff;6088364]

The rotors themselves are solid metal so it's gonna be tough to break those so that RPM limit is gonna be really high.
QUOTE]
You've been terribly missinformed. They are not solid, they are hollow. until the last few years solid billet aluminum rotors did not exist.

They probally wouldn't have existed when this thread was made. 3 year old thread.