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i found a 81-85 dizzy, and will just have to do an MSD boost retard or something of the sort.
i also found a 500cfm carb for cheap. i figured more than that would be overkill.
^^i got a turbo trany and decent clutch/flywheel from the same guy i bought the complete motor and harness from.
i think i WILL do the blower just for the cool factor and the sound. gotta have that sound! the car will be near over powered as is, but some times you just have to sacrifice! haha.
my main concern will be finding the right blower drive gearing to get a desired boost level. im assuming i will be buying or making many blower pulleys till i find just the right size.
heres how it sits currently. steering finished, body support hoops done, ready for a body and pedals. the blower is just resting there.
haha. the tubing is not meant to be a cage. just a body frame work. although i will likely do some head bars eventually like a lotus super-7.
the brakes are 4 wheel discs. they will lock it up hard. the tires will likely be the down fall as they will probably just lock and slide if i were to hammer into the brakes at a good clip. as with any home hot rod, you have to keep the cars limits in mind when driving, keep your distance, always look twice, dont be stupid, and so on.
^^ haha. thanks.
i will have seat cushions, and the back end does have shocks. the front end has a quarter elliptical spring design that will ride very nicely. i still have to devise front shocks. likely ill do hydraulic friction style vintage shocks up front to keep that vintage look.
this car will be a dream ride compared to the diesel cars 1" of travel and brute power!!!
the diesel cr was fun to build and is fun to dyno. this car will be fun to DRIVE.
hi again guys!
ive taken a break from the motor for a biy but im getting back at it.
i need to remove the front cover and do the gasket there, and then install my distributor in place of the electronic pick up unit.
i dont want to just go and yank out the old unit before knowing if i need to set things to TDC in order to line up the new dizzy when i have to install it.
does anyone have a good link of some basic info on getting things to TDC and then getting the distributor in the proper orientation?
The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.
now another question.... is there a bell-ousing for a manual trany that was ever produced that placed the starter on the passenger side?? this car is so small that my pedals need to go where the starter wants to sit. i need to relocate it to the passenger side. if i dont have to fab it up and can just buy a bell-housing that is designed that way, that would be easier.
maybe some Jap RHD comos came this way??
ive been googling it with no real info found so maybe im just SOL?
^ hmmmm... that could work great! thanks! ill look into that.
heres a picture of how things sit right now. the blower still isnt mounted with a manifold but here where im thinking it will need to sit. ive also been working on the floor and firewall so i can place my pedals and things.
That thing is going to be stupid when your done, as in stupid fast, stupid crazy, everything....ma lawd man, hope you don't kill yourself in that thing lol
i think you will be totaly suprised at how hard it will be to drive! comming from someone who built a 88 s10/383 stroker combo that ran a 9.72/1,000ft as a dayly driver.i have a 12a bridgeport NO TURBO with 500 cfm 4 barrel in a 1970 mg midget (witch is tinny but im sure outweighs you car) an with the 225/45/15 race tires i was running (8.5 inch wide) i could blow them off at any time i wanted an the car although a blast to drive was a handfull!!! now im running much moore tire an hopfully will get moore grip on track. also it will be verry loud even with full muffler syst ran all way out,youll need a streight through desigh muffler(i like magnaflow...sounds good also) because a chamberd muffler dosent work well with roatry. all that being said....I WANT TO DRIVE IT !!!! my next project will likly be along these lines also but as a street car with some fat *** tires...what can i say, im a speed freek and have a death wish! glad to see you share the same disease and cant wate for some video of you "atempting" to drive it !!!
As the castings are still on the rear iron for the old top mounted started, you may be able to either find one, or adapt another starter (looks like a Chevy small block starter could almost fit?).
If you google "Mazda rotary top mount starter" you will quickly know more than I about it.
lol, yeah every rear housing up to 89 (so 68-88), have the mounting pad for the top mount starter.
the top mount starter came in a few flavors and the old school guys knew which part number was the smallest/lightest, as the big one is half the size of the engine, and the small one is the same size as the bottom mount.
for the later engines, the cosmo and FD mount a starter on the side of the iron, by the spark plugs, so there is that route as well.
Since the top mount starter is from the old engines it is going to be set up for the smaller flywheel right?
turbo-minivan is using a TII box with the larger flywheel.
The FD has the starter in the same spot as the TII and has the clutch slave right above it as well.
The 13B automatic transmissions have the starter in the same spot but facing forward alongside the engine as you describe.
The auto trans have a different bellhousing to trans bolt pattern, but I perhaps it could be adapted with an adapter plate?
Does the auto trans flexplate correspond to the larger rotary flywheel diameter?
Are there different flexplate diameters for the different rotary auto trans?
I believe the beefiest auto trans is from the Cosmo 20B (which you should be able to pick up for shipping as no one uses them) and it looks identical to the Nissan Z31 300ZX and Pathfinder autos with a different bell housing.
Not that you want an auto, but if you are searching for different flexplate diameters...
Those diesels make torque, but it won't surprise you. I mean, you have to waaaaaaaaaaaaaait for it.
Just getting one to spool on a dyno jet requires you to smoke your brakes brake boosting and time the pull just right.
Rotaries don't make any low rpm power and can make good high rpm power and have very little rotating inertia and friction so they can rev fast.
This means you can go from no power to full power very quickly and get surprised doing it. I found if you beef up the rotaries low rpm power it actually becomes much easier to drive.
its the same minus the 1 bolt, remember we use the Cosmo engines with manual transmissions all the time
Not the engine to bellhousing, but rather bellhousing to transmission. As in trying to use an auto bellhousing for the starter location on a manual transmission.
09-23-15, 12:05 AM
