Even though I am new on this community I have plenty experience with FB's but always willing to learn more from others. I will be rebuilding my first 12a in the next couple of weeks. It shouldn't be a hard task for me because I am a mechanic but rotary is a totally different world than piston and if its not done right you could mess something up, so for you guys that have done this before please help me on this one. i.e. where to purchase the kit and what to and what not to do.My vision for this vehicle that I will be building is street ported, I have not decided either using a weber or a holley just yet I have no idea on which one is better, MSD ignition coil and dist, ofcourse headers, RB fuel pump and a wide down pipe with maybe a magnaflow exhaust. if there is something you guys think i should modify of any comments I would really appreciste it. I have not purchased anything just yet so let me know. I do have some cosmetic things in mind as well that I will be out in the look for like glass sunroof and targa bands and other small stuff like that but I will be posting that later. I do appreciate all of your help on this one and please dont waste your time writing dumb comments I know I dont know it all but like I said I am more than willing to learn. Thank you!!!

 

You posted in multiple places. Once is enough.

 

i didn't bother to check if you got responses in the other threads that KansasCityREPU mentioned, but i'm bored and i guess it can't hurt to have suggestions in more than one place. so here goes ...
you have options. before i became unemployed, i used to shop for engine parts pretty much exclusively at Mazdatrix - so that's one possible source. since i've come upon leaner times, i've had the need to look for other options, so there's Pineapple, Atkins, a few online Mazda dealers, RB and i'm sure there are others. for apex seals, corners seals and a few others parts here and there, there are even more options. look at your budget and do your research. period!

as far as the rebuild process goes, you can never be too meticulous. get some nice, large paper, a Sharpie and a pen. pull the engine apart. thoroughly clean everything (i've seen a video, i think it Pineapple on youtube) that shows you ways to clean the parts effectively - i mention it only to show you that the information is out there and pretty much free. however, i know there are videos you can purchase as well. either way, the bottomline is clean the engine parts well! do this before you purchase a single part!

after you clean everything, then you can measure (and label) everything. this is where the paper and writing utensils come into play. use the Sharpie to make reference points on the rotor and organize the reusable seals with their respective measurements. obviously, things that are out of spec go in the trash.

as a rule, i always replace springs with new ones. the very first engine i built, i had the brilliant idea of bending the springs to give good tension on the seals. i won't say it didn't work, but i will say this ... i've replaced the springs in every engine since then. i suppose if i had to pull apart a fairly low mile, functioning engine for some reason, i may be tempted, but so far i have not been in that particular situation. furthermore, i doubt it applies to your 12A. buy NEW springs (even if you choose to reuse the seal).

now you're ready to look for parts.
there is no better. do your homework and decide for yourself. many complaints you hear about either one are from people either not knowing what to do with the carbie or they're using the wrong carbie for the application.

i used a Carter fuel pump with no complaints for several years. i put it away ever since i pulled my '84 apart, but i'm sure it's ready to go to work again whenever i need it. my point? i find it to be reliable. i won't talk bad about Holley pumps other than to say, i've heard of failures. however, my brother has used a Holley on his car for even longer than i had my Carter and his still works! also, the user Mar3 recommends a particular Mallory pump because it works as well as the Carter and Holley, but is supposedly quieter. i've never used it, but i respect Mar3's assessment. do your homework! (do you sense a theme yet? )

sort out the exhaust after the thing is up and running.
you may want to look into modifying for greater oil pressure and flow. i use the SE oil pump on the 12As i build. i also use the FD rear regulator. aside from personal budget reasons, i don't think there's a valid argument not to use the SE pump. however, there are alternatives to the REW regulator. you can modify your stock rear regulator in one of two ways i'm aware of now (i recently say another way) both will require skill and know-how on your part though. do your homework!
maybe it's my old age and the amount of time ive spent on this (and other) boards over the years, but saying stuff like this doesn't work, and if anything, invites people to **** with you. it deters nothing. i say, invite the good, the bad and the ugly. if someone says something utterly useless, you always have the option to ignore it.

hope i've helped you some.
1

 

ooops! that was supposed to read i recently saw another way.

anyway, i just thought of another tidbit. use the FD corner seal springs.

 

Busa1120, I've been looking for rebuild info and like you have many piston engine rebuilds under my belt.

I've seen several people post reccomendations for the build video found here:

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_video.htm


I don't work for them, and I don't have a copy of it, yet (soon I hope).

 

Another carburetor option that you didn't mention is to keep the Nikki carb. Check out the sterling metal works site. The modified Nikki appears to be a good option, keeping the benefit of the spread bore carburetor. If nothing else he has lots of great info.