could a shaky idle be due to a straight threw exhaust?
could a shaky idle be due to a straight threw exhaust?
i still have a shaky , i checked the tpc , bac , all the vacuum hoses. the only thing i havent checked is the injectors. could anything else cause a shaky idle. could it be cause i have a straight threw exhaust. i have 2.5" piping all the way back. let me know any help appreciated.
is everything stock?
i'm pretty confident that the exhaust is not the trouble. i've seen cars running up to 3.5 inch pipes, and have solid idle. unless you messed with the oxygen sensor?
not really a Gen III guy, so i can't help much
, but did you post this is in the Gen III forum? they should be better help to you ...
i'm pretty confident that the exhaust is not the trouble. i've seen cars running up to 3.5 inch pipes, and have solid idle. unless you messed with the oxygen sensor?

not really a Gen III guy, so i can't help much
, but did you post this is in the Gen III forum? they should be better help to you ...
no mine is a t2 , today it died out when i drove off with is a little cold . could it be the oxygen sensor? i bought the car the way it is and cant find the problem. i dont know what kind of oxygen sensor is in there. also sometimes it will start up to 3000 like it is saposed to in the morn and other times it wont.
oxygen sensor takes no part in idling, so don't look there.
When you start up the engine in neutral, the rpm should go way up like 3,000 rpms for 17s, then go down to about 1,200 rpms (warming up phase), then go down to 750 rpms when engine is fully warmed. If you bip the throttle or start the car in gear, you won't get the 17 s thing. Also, if very cold, you won't get it either. Also, if you have a bad connection at the little sensor at the bootom of the radiator (drive side), you won't get it.
If you don't have the warming up phase, the most likely culprit is the water thermo sensor in the back of the water pump.
If you have bad idle, the first thing to check is engine compression. If compression is not good, the car will not idle very well no matter what you do.
Please, take a look at:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
This will allow you to troubleshoot your idle problems.
Hope this helps,
Hugues -
When you start up the engine in neutral, the rpm should go way up like 3,000 rpms for 17s, then go down to about 1,200 rpms (warming up phase), then go down to 750 rpms when engine is fully warmed. If you bip the throttle or start the car in gear, you won't get the 17 s thing. Also, if very cold, you won't get it either. Also, if you have a bad connection at the little sensor at the bootom of the radiator (drive side), you won't get it.
If you don't have the warming up phase, the most likely culprit is the water thermo sensor in the back of the water pump.
If you have bad idle, the first thing to check is engine compression. If compression is not good, the car will not idle very well no matter what you do.
Please, take a look at:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
This will allow you to troubleshoot your idle problems.
Hope this helps,
Hugues -
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trickster
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