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BattV (red line in bottom graph) is interesting! It shows a max of 12.6v (!!! That's LOW if the charging system is working! Huge voltage drop somewhere if it is!) and a low of 6.1v, which is curious because I don't see that anywhere on the log. Voltage stays more or less straight line on the graph.
MS voltage is critical. It should ideally be powered up by the same circuit that powers up the fuel injectors. This is because the MS goes off of its internal voltage to determine the injector dead time, since that slope is dependent on voltage at the injector. So the MS needs to see the actual voltage that the injectors are getting. (And needless to say that voltage should be as close to system voltage as possible - if you have a working charging system then you have 1-2 VOLTS of drop at the computer - which is scandalously bad!)
I have relayed computers before to get rid of voltage drops through the OE wiring. There shouldn't be a drop, but when you are dealing with a 30 year old car, it is easier to run a couple wires and relays than it is to replace every single switch and connector in the circuit... assuming you can get them!
the ms and all engine related parts is on the same fuse panel. there is no factory wiring at all id like to say every should have been fairly bullet proof aside from running the pump off the fuse box i see now that its was not a good idea.
i will preform a series of test on the pump and reg. then check if the alternator could be no good.
the ms and all engine related parts is on the same fuse panel. there is no factory wiring at all id like to say every should have been fairly bullet proof aside from running the pump off the fuse box i see now that its was not a good idea.
i will preform a series of test on the pump and reg. then check if the alternator could be no good.
You probably already know this, but just for posterity, an easy check for voltage drop is, with the MS on, check what it reads the voltage as and then check your battery voltage.
You probably already know this, but just for posterity, an easy check for voltage drop is, with the MS on, check what it reads the voltage as and then check your battery voltage.
this is about what i used to put the power threw to the pump
personally i would close the CAS sensor gaps first, that would likely clean up the ignition signal, then it is obviously apparent there is a fuel pressure/volume issue. could be voltage, could be the pump, could be the system isn't holding the pressure and is bleeding off somewhere.
Yeap agree with above comments . changing ecu isn't going to fix your problems. also unless you get the haltech elite the ps2000 is a few step backwards in some areas.
you way want to try increasing your trigger threshold voltage to clean up the rpm signal. i think ms just has a static setting, so you probably want it between 1V and 3V.
I also wonder if you are having pressure fluctuations due to not having a pulsation damper? check out chris ludwigs post in single turbo section
so i did a quick test of the pump and regulator and the two can hold a steady 80 psi for about a minute so i cant see the pressure being the problem. I will go back and see how many amps i am pulling. voltage at the battery is 10.8 as the car does not run and and voltage at the pump is 10.4. I may try a pulsation damper next time around. i will try and adjust the trigger signal and hopefully clean that up.
i am also curious about this rising rate is 1psi of fuel for every 1psi of boost.
here im at ~63psi of fuel pressure at 6psi of boost my base fuel pressure is 30psi.
you may have to retest it with a sole battery on a charger. 10.4v won't give you any sort of desirable results, the pump's volume will be something like ~75% of the rated output as most pumps are tested for volume at roughly 13-13.5v.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 12, 2015 at 08:12 PM.
you may have to retest it with a sole battery on a charger. 10.4v won't give you any sort of desirable results, the pump's volume will be something like ~75% of the rated output as most pumps are tested for volume at roughly 13-13.5v.
my test was to see if the pump and regulator could reach and keep a pressure above a regular running pressure. testing for volume will a different one all together as i haven't decide on my best way to do so as pouring gas around isn't gonna be a lot of fun.
i am also curious about this rising rate is 1psi of fuel for every 1psi of boost.
here im at ~63psi of fuel pressure at 6psi of boost my base fuel pressure is 30psi
Yeah... that's really damn odd. That's a 5.5:1 ratio and the website you linked states a 40PSI base pressure. So your FPR is fucked, the wrong one (not all are 1:1), or you pressure unit/its settings are **** and/or wrong. I do not envy you the trouble shooting you're going to have to do.
My gut is telling me you have the adjuster backed way out and it's causing the FPR to behave very strangely. Or something odd with the ports...
or it's simply a miscalibration setting in the ECU, do you have a mechanical gauge on it as well to compare?
there is a slight differential between gauge fuel pressure and ecu fuel pressure at 40 psi its about 1psi and at 80psi its about 4psi. so it is very slight.
ill check for flow and most likely replace the regulator.
