aluminum motor mounts
11-28-03, 08:13 PM
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aluminum motor mounts
just wanted to see if anybody was familiar with aluminum motor mounts because i was on ebay looking for motor mounts they didnt have any regular ones but had these solid aluminim kind and it said that they were better than the stock kind so i just wanted to see if any body new anything about this
thanx
thanx
11-28-03, 11:58 PM
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Yeah, that and the solid motor mounts transfer a LOT of vibration to the subframe/chassis.
I don't know about those ebay all aluminum ones (sounds like a racing-only deal), but when I make motor mounts that won't break, I drill out the center of the stock mounts (do it from behind the bolt studs), get a piece of all thread (I used 3/8") and two small polyurethane bushings (they're for suspension parts). They're 1-1/2" in diameter, have two small metal cups, and are 3/4" thick with metal cup-plates installed. Put the all- thread through it all (put the two urethane "pads" on the underside of the subframe) and make sure to use four nuts (two on each end) and some "red" thread-lock on each mount. Tighten them until it just starts to compress the urethane bushings, and then use another nut to lock it in place. They're stiff, don't transfer vibration very bad at all, and they don't break easily. That, and they cost less than $10 to make.
If you're not the handy type, just get some OEM ones like Larz said.
I don't know about those ebay all aluminum ones (sounds like a racing-only deal), but when I make motor mounts that won't break, I drill out the center of the stock mounts (do it from behind the bolt studs), get a piece of all thread (I used 3/8") and two small polyurethane bushings (they're for suspension parts). They're 1-1/2" in diameter, have two small metal cups, and are 3/4" thick with metal cup-plates installed. Put the all- thread through it all (put the two urethane "pads" on the underside of the subframe) and make sure to use four nuts (two on each end) and some "red" thread-lock on each mount. Tighten them until it just starts to compress the urethane bushings, and then use another nut to lock it in place. They're stiff, don't transfer vibration very bad at all, and they don't break easily. That, and they cost less than $10 to make.
If you're not the handy type, just get some OEM ones like Larz said.
Last edited by black_sunshine; 11-29-03 at 12:00 AM.