'88 fc t2 overheating?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
'88 fc t2 overheating?
car is a 10thae with a streetported motor from bonzai. it has been overheating since late last season and I put it away for the winter. Before I tackle this issue again, here are some details and diagnostics I have done.
-champagne test / bubbling - none
-no white smoke at warm temps, no smell of coolant
-i have to constantly add coolant/water after drives, it typically seems to overpressurize into the overflow and spit onto stuff in the engine bay
-i have not flushed radiator, but have changed thermostat
- just changed water pump yesterday, have not started car (can't get power to it at the moment, possibly the new rtek i got, battery, or some sort of big fuse, idk haven't troubleshot it )
-i had bought an ebay triple core radiator for the pure shot that it was dirt cheap. inspected welds on the flanges, it seems to be of "decent" quality. does not have a fill neck, only a big port on the top. so i moved the pressure and bleed cap to the water neck.
is it possible that the triple core just does not allow water to pass through fast enough and the 7 ends up just churning the coolant instead of moving it? anyone have any other ideas? I'm going to try and get it started this week, but I just charged the battery and put it back in the posts - no lights, no nothing. so i have opened up a new can of worms for the spring involving that any direction is appreciated!
-champagne test / bubbling - none
-no white smoke at warm temps, no smell of coolant
-i have to constantly add coolant/water after drives, it typically seems to overpressurize into the overflow and spit onto stuff in the engine bay
-i have not flushed radiator, but have changed thermostat
- just changed water pump yesterday, have not started car (can't get power to it at the moment, possibly the new rtek i got, battery, or some sort of big fuse, idk haven't troubleshot it )
-i had bought an ebay triple core radiator for the pure shot that it was dirt cheap. inspected welds on the flanges, it seems to be of "decent" quality. does not have a fill neck, only a big port on the top. so i moved the pressure and bleed cap to the water neck.
is it possible that the triple core just does not allow water to pass through fast enough and the 7 ends up just churning the coolant instead of moving it? anyone have any other ideas? I'm going to try and get it started this week, but I just charged the battery and put it back in the posts - no lights, no nothing. so i have opened up a new can of worms for the spring involving that any direction is appreciated!
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
I have not, as i assumed the partial reason behind seeing coolant pissing out the reservoir was to show the cap was working. I can do that though, as the caps are fairly cheap. What is the OEM spec pressure required on these? My cap is actually scratched off as far as PSI rating goes, and I find varying answers on google.
#4
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
If its filling your resovouir, that means its building too much pressure, and since you've already seem to of done the main tests, its about your only option left. Easy way to test is drive it with the cap cracked loose, if it still does it, you has more serious issues
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