'84 Rex been sitting for 3 years
07-12-02, 01:24 AM
#1
'84 Rex been sitting for 3 years
Hey Guys,
Okay, here's the scoop. My mum has an '84 Rx-7, that she's finally given over to me. The bad part is that it's been sitting in a drivway taking beatings from Canadian winters for 3 years or more. It used to run perfectly fine, in fact it has only like 89,000 kilometers on it.
Now the Master Clutch Cylinder is shot, the clutch just pushes to the floor with no resistance, and it won't even TRY to turn over. I'm replacing the cylinder tomorrow, hopefully, but it used to sound like it was trying to turn over, now it just sits there mute. The battery's good (it's the one from my current car).
So here's my question so far: where can I test the starter circuit to determine what's at fault in starting the car?
and
does anyone have any advice on starting a car that's been sitting there for three years?
Okay, here's the scoop. My mum has an '84 Rx-7, that she's finally given over to me. The bad part is that it's been sitting in a drivway taking beatings from Canadian winters for 3 years or more. It used to run perfectly fine, in fact it has only like 89,000 kilometers on it.
Now the Master Clutch Cylinder is shot, the clutch just pushes to the floor with no resistance, and it won't even TRY to turn over. I'm replacing the cylinder tomorrow, hopefully, but it used to sound like it was trying to turn over, now it just sits there mute. The battery's good (it's the one from my current car).
So here's my question so far: where can I test the starter circuit to determine what's at fault in starting the car?
and
does anyone have any advice on starting a car that's been sitting there for three years?
07-12-02, 10:32 AM
#2
Two wires to the starter, big wire from bat+ and small wire with spade connector. This wire gets power when switch is turned to start. U could connect a wire there and and touch it to bat+ and should spin the engine provided the starter is good and the engine isn't locked up. U'll probably need to dain the tank and put fresh gas in it and since it's been sitting for so long, the apex seals will prob be stuck. If it does start, it may run rough because of this. I've used auto trans fluid to fee up stuck seals but others may have other ideas.
07-14-02, 12:40 PM
#3
use the ATF or gear oil (non-synthetic) to loosen the seals ... put some in the engine and turn it by hand both with and without the plugs - this is very important because the starter will not be as gentle on the engine if the seals are stuck. so turn it by hand first ...
when the engine is free and the seals are moist, next, change the oil and filter, use some 20W50 (mineral-based) stuff. take the plugs out and crank the engine with the starter until you start to get a reading on the pressure gauge.
when you get a reading ... then put the plugs back in and try to start the engine. if it fires, then just let in warm up by itself - don't keep revving it - especially if you start it with the old gas. however keep a VERY vigilant eye on the temperature gauge!!!
after starting it is behind you ... give it a thorough tune-up and ANOTHER oil change! change the water pump, thermostat, hoses and antifreeze as well (you can also use some Redline Water Wetter).
run some fuel injector cleaner thorugh the first few tanks of gas and take it easy, try to avoid redlining it and overly-agressive starts from a standstill for a few weeks. that's all i can think of off-hand. hope it all works out.
when the engine is free and the seals are moist, next, change the oil and filter, use some 20W50 (mineral-based) stuff. take the plugs out and crank the engine with the starter until you start to get a reading on the pressure gauge.
when you get a reading ... then put the plugs back in and try to start the engine. if it fires, then just let in warm up by itself - don't keep revving it - especially if you start it with the old gas. however keep a VERY vigilant eye on the temperature gauge!!!
after starting it is behind you ... give it a thorough tune-up and ANOTHER oil change! change the water pump, thermostat, hoses and antifreeze as well (you can also use some Redline Water Wetter).
run some fuel injector cleaner thorugh the first few tanks of gas and take it easy, try to avoid redlining it and overly-agressive starts from a standstill for a few weeks. that's all i can think of off-hand. hope it all works out.
07-22-02, 12:27 AM
#4
Well, my friend Michel and I have been working on it for a while and here's what we've come up with:
We used ATF in a spray bottle to get the engine turning by hand. It turned out the starter was completely shot so we replaced it. And we replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders (both were shot).
We were told NEVER to use ATF to unseize the engine because it will cause the rotor's seals to expand and lose their seal (thanx Dave for telling me AFTER I did it..... oh well)
We got the brakes off so that I could get the car towed if I needed it.. but one of the calipers are seized and potentially more.
So here's where she stands:
The starter turns the engine, but unless we drop a bit of fuel directly into the carb, I don't get as much as a single ripple. Changed the fuel filter and tested the line at the carb - gas IS getting to it, and quite well. The spark plugs get filthy every time we try to start 'er, so we're going to change the oil, clean 'em off and give a few more tires. We tested all four plugs, they all fire (brand new plugs, wires and distrib cap/rotor) when cleaned.
Any other suggestions? how do I get the combustion chamber cleaned so it doesn't mess my plugs as much and what's wrong with the carb?
Jon
We used ATF in a spray bottle to get the engine turning by hand. It turned out the starter was completely shot so we replaced it. And we replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders (both were shot).
We were told NEVER to use ATF to unseize the engine because it will cause the rotor's seals to expand and lose their seal (thanx Dave for telling me AFTER I did it..... oh well)
We got the brakes off so that I could get the car towed if I needed it.. but one of the calipers are seized and potentially more.
So here's where she stands:
The starter turns the engine, but unless we drop a bit of fuel directly into the carb, I don't get as much as a single ripple. Changed the fuel filter and tested the line at the carb - gas IS getting to it, and quite well. The spark plugs get filthy every time we try to start 'er, so we're going to change the oil, clean 'em off and give a few more tires. We tested all four plugs, they all fire (brand new plugs, wires and distrib cap/rotor) when cleaned.
Any other suggestions? how do I get the combustion chamber cleaned so it doesn't mess my plugs as much and what's wrong with the carb?
Jon
07-22-02, 12:30 AM
#5
Oh, and good news, the fuel didn't turn to jelly, so I'm gonna try purging it with new stuff and running it out the fuel line to the carrb. An oil change is definitely on the way, but why did you suggest the mineral stuff?
And as I posted in the racing forum: If this carb's shot or something, I read in another thread that it's a good idea to get a good Weber or Holley carb (in anticipation for the street port that I eventually plan), but I am clueless about carbs : What do I look for?!?!?
Jon
And as I posted in the racing forum: If this carb's shot or something, I read in another thread that it's a good idea to get a good Weber or Holley carb (in anticipation for the street port that I eventually plan), but I am clueless about carbs : What do I look for?!?!?
Jon
07-22-02, 11:24 PM
#6
went back today and gave her an oil change. Used standard 10w30 dino oil, but the stuff I was taking out looked like black tar.... the engine starts now, but yet again, only if gas is poured in the carb through the top... we can get it running (to try and clean out the combustion chamber) for a few minutes if I stand there with a windex bottle full of gas and spray.. Probably not good for the engine, but this leads me to believe the prob is DEFINITELY in the carb.
Michel can rev it when it`s running, but it won't start or stay running on it's own accord. What gives?
Gonna get a carb rebuild kit probably.
Jon
Michel can rev it when it`s running, but it won't start or stay running on it's own accord. What gives?
Gonna get a carb rebuild kit probably.
Jon
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08-01-02, 02:56 AM
#8
Originally posted by vipernicus42
An oil change is definitely on the way, but why did you suggest the mineral stuff?
And as I posted in the racing forum: If this carb's shot or something, I read in another thread that it's a good idea to get a good Weber or Holley carb (in anticipation for the street port that I eventually plan), but I am clueless about carbs : What do I look for?!?!?
Jon
An oil change is definitely on the way, but why did you suggest the mineral stuff?
And as I posted in the racing forum: If this carb's shot or something, I read in another thread that it's a good idea to get a good Weber or Holley carb (in anticipation for the street port that I eventually plan), but I am clueless about carbs : What do I look for?!?!?
Jon
without trying to sound like your mother or something, i think you should probably just focus on getting the car roadworthy before you start thinking of porting and performance carbs. get the stock carb working, and get some seat time ... besides, the only advantage you might get with a performance carb right now with the stock ports is just moving the powerband of the motor. in terms of numbers, you will be able to get the same maximum power with the Nikki.
Originally posted by vipernicus42
the engine starts now, but yet again, only if gas is poured in the carb through the top... we can get it running (to try and clean out the combustion chamber) for a few minutes if I stand there with a windex bottle full of gas and spray.. Probably not good for the engine, but this leads me to believe the prob is DEFINITELY in the carb.
Michel can rev it when it`s running, but it won't start or stay running on it's own accord. What gives?
Gonna get a carb rebuild kit probably.
Jon
the engine starts now, but yet again, only if gas is poured in the carb through the top... we can get it running (to try and clean out the combustion chamber) for a few minutes if I stand there with a windex bottle full of gas and spray.. Probably not good for the engine, but this leads me to believe the prob is DEFINITELY in the carb.
Michel can rev it when it`s running, but it won't start or stay running on it's own accord. What gives?
Gonna get a carb rebuild kit probably.
Jon
it's a great idea to clean and rebuild the carbie. does the choke work? maybe try turning the idle speed up until it will idle by itself and then use some carb cleaner to cut up some of the crap in the carbie. i don't know, it's a bit crude, but it's just a thought. don't let your friend rev it past 3000 or 4000 RPM until all the shitty gas is out of it, and even then, it's not such a good idea until you've driven the car regularly for a while.
let us know your progress ...
08-02-02, 08:02 PM
#9
Things are about the same stance, but I have a word on the synthetic oil.
The reasons I've been given as to why you shouldn't use it are pretty simple. The oil is mixed into the gas before it's sprayed into the combustion chamber. This means
1. The oil has to mix well with the gas and
2. The oil is meant, to a certain extent, to burn off with the gas
Synthetic doesn't blend well with gas, it's designed not to, because it's also designed NOT to burn off, thus the reason you can use it for longer in regular piston engines w/o having it burn off or having to change it.
So my advice to those out there using it... STOP!
If you're really concerned about performance degredation from your oil, just use regular dinosaur oil (10w30, since rotaries like THIN oil for good mixing and spraying), and change it more often.
That's my word for today, oh, and I got someone who'se going to look at my carb in late August. Hopefully it's just something he can wash the parts and get 'er running, then I won't even need the kit and I can use the stock nikki. In the meantime - Commencing project BRAKES!!!
hehe, will keep in touch. (as for the mineral oil.... the regular 10w30 is like 7$ canadian for four litres, I'll just use that)
Anyone know exactly how much oil to put in a 1984 GS? I've found like four different numbers... Preferably in metric please, I hate having to do the conversion when I don't know if you're using american or imperial quarts.
L8rs
Jon
The reasons I've been given as to why you shouldn't use it are pretty simple. The oil is mixed into the gas before it's sprayed into the combustion chamber. This means
1. The oil has to mix well with the gas and
2. The oil is meant, to a certain extent, to burn off with the gas
Synthetic doesn't blend well with gas, it's designed not to, because it's also designed NOT to burn off, thus the reason you can use it for longer in regular piston engines w/o having it burn off or having to change it.
So my advice to those out there using it... STOP!
If you're really concerned about performance degredation from your oil, just use regular dinosaur oil (10w30, since rotaries like THIN oil for good mixing and spraying), and change it more often.
That's my word for today, oh, and I got someone who'se going to look at my carb in late August. Hopefully it's just something he can wash the parts and get 'er running, then I won't even need the kit and I can use the stock nikki. In the meantime - Commencing project BRAKES!!!
hehe, will keep in touch. (as for the mineral oil.... the regular 10w30 is like 7$ canadian for four litres, I'll just use that)
Anyone know exactly how much oil to put in a 1984 GS? I've found like four different numbers... Preferably in metric please, I hate having to do the conversion when I don't know if you're using american or imperial quarts.
L8rs
Jon
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