1st generation rx7, smoking a lot when idling. No or little smoke whilst driving. Checked and adjusted oil lubricating pump to spec. no Change. Also floods easily. Replaced points and plugs, rebuild the carb, to no avail.

 

welcome to the board.

based only on the fact that you said it smokes and it goes away when you drive, you still need to post up some details.

what color is the smoke?
what does it smell like?
have you tuned the carb since the rebuild?
what fuel pump?
shut it down during one of those times and pull the plugs and see what story they might tell.
do you find yourself topping off coolant periodically?

 

I did a complete rebuild on the carb. Smoke is white and smells like oil. I removed the plugs, wet / oily, and replaced it. It floods easy, and will not start. Have to tow it to get it starting again.....only a couple of meters. Live in South Africa and it is rather difficult to get spares.

Regards

 

Please help, I am thinking of selling this piece of @#$%&. Have to tow it every time......just refuses to start.

 

that's probably about your best bet. most likely the oil seals are shot which involves a rebuild of the engine to resolve.

the next issue of hard starting could mean the housings are worn out, and difficult to find replacements for at this time for any series of 12A.

i could be incorrect and it is coolant burning off but the remedy is still the same, it would account for the difficulty in starting the car and possibly eliminate the rotor housings as failing. in any event the repairs are not exactly quick or cheap, some people have gone the route of temporary solutions but they are only as temporary as the engine allows them to be: thicker/thinner oil, oil additives to swell rubber oil seals, cooling system block sealants, etc. none of which will address compression issues if the engine is that far gone.

 

Thanks. Next step is to replace the engine with a 13B turbo unit that is available locally. (only one unit in this country!) Question, will it fit onto the existing gearbox? Which is the best engine management system? Cost of engine is R 10 000, which equates to $ 2 000. Will I be able to import at a better price????

Regards

 

that's about an average price for a full Jspec long block including the transmission.

things you will need to adapt would be the front cover, swapping it out from your current engine to the turbo one so that the engine will mount directly to the original mount points in your frame. i believe racing beat offers a modified mount bracket that offsets the additional length of the engine to make it fit into your chassis. the FB oil metering pump only gives 2 oil line ports so you should consider premixing 2 stroke if you go that far and block off the oil metering pump/nozzles.

the next step is to get a non turbo clutch and flywheel from the same year span of the turbo engine you buy. they're cheap and easy to get, the result will be the turbo engine/ non turbo clutch will fit directly to your FB transmission.

the rest is all peripheral work, building the exhaust and wiring up the engine and figuring out if you want to retain the stock harness and ECU or eliminate much of that and run a standalone. a haltech sprint RE with flying lead harness is about $900USD, plus you will need to find someone to tune it for you. running a stock ECU you can avoid tuning issues but you will have more wiring to figure out.

the fuel pump will also have to be upgraded to a fuel injection high pressure gravity fed style pump.

there's a bit more to it but those are the major hurdles.