Fresh rebuilt s6 engine specs as followed.
“prior to tear down engine was running with roughly 80psi on all faces”


-Irons were only clean, no lap or refinish.
-Housings refinish by Goopy
-Rotors were only clean

apex seals- goopy 2mm 2pc new
apex springs- Atkins new
corner seals- oem two 2pc new
corner spring- oem new
side seals- reused, double check for clearance
side seal springs- Atkins new
oil control rings- reused
oil control ring orings- Atkins new


Side seal clearance were roughly about .08mm
End play was way less than standard, but it did move freely.

Prior to assemble, I had double check to make sure everything on the rotors was moving as it should, with no binding.

After installation, I thought it would be good to run a hand turn compression check before assemble everything else. Using a piston compression test with the valve removed.

Turning by hand I was getting:
Rear: 80+ on all three face
Front: 30~ ,0 ,0


Any suggestion? I’m thinking it could be stuck side seals.

 

Oil control ring springs were faced correctly.
Side seal spring were faced correctly with the end point up.

 

try turning it in the other direction. might have better luck. i had always heard to never rotate the engine backwards.

 

I mistaken turned the wrong way, thank for pointing that out. Just tried turning the other direction still nothing 40-0-0

Could it be stuck side seals some how?

 

Maybe one of the apex seals is jammed in the rotor. I would move the apex seals around to the exhaust port and see if you can push it back and forth without it catching in the groove. 0.003" of side seal clearance should be fine. Should have been easily moved back and forth out of the grove without getting stuck before assembly.

For ***** and grins you could shoot some assembly lube in the rotor housing and see if the compression picks up (and it should). If it doesn't pick up drastically you can almost guarantee something isn't moving the way it should (i.e. jammed)....

Either way at this point its gonna have to come apart so trying to theorize the inevitable is moot.

Sucks its the front rotor, because you are going to have to take apart the good side to get to the bad...

 

Ive checked all the apex seals through the exhaust port to make sure it’s not stuck. But still no luck...

already bought 12 new side seals
and another set of water jackets

sigh..

 

Even with a much bigger side seal gap you still should have some compression. When I rebuilt my first engine. I used a stone to file my side seals down and I put a bit too much lateral pressure on one of the side seals, which made it more of an s-shape. The side seal when fitted into the rotor wouldn't create a seal against the iron and it wasn't until I pulled it apart and looked at every single part that I figured it out.....I would lay them all out and check for warpage...

I would also take all three apex seals and run it around the rotor housing to check that the seal and housing matte up perfectly. With 0 compression you should find the problem easy enough.... 0 compression on two faces should be even more evident.....

You should be able to reuse the water o-rings as long as the car hasn't been heat cycled...

 

Problem solved!

Solution: Missing corner corner piece to apex seal!

For future reference, Just because you superglued the apex seal, and were able to installed the spring without it breaking.... AND it was there prior to closing. DOUBLE CHECK AGAIN..!!
Also, found the apex seal corner on the floor..



Thank you all for your support.