[B]Scary dirty oil fresh rebuild[B]
06-02-12, 09:53 PM
#1
[B]Scary dirty oil fresh rebuild[B]
So after having starting and flooding issues along with a leaky oil pan after rebuild. i find out that my trigger sensors are shot cracked and pfc is not reading them,
So in the mean time wile there are on order and in route i decide to fix the leak at the rear of the oil pan where the motor mounts go. Word to the wise do not use hex bolts that you can get with a fancy dress up bolt kit for your oil pan, use the original oil pan bolts it is so much easier to use a shorter 10mm socket then it is to use a hex socket or hex wrench if you have to pull the oil pan.
After the long story i come to my point of this thread.....
when draining the oil now mind you i have only had about 1hr running time on this motor at <2000rpm the oil came out looking like graphite lubricant. i used 10w30a w/ half qt of lucus 90w additive.
Now regardless of the oil, is this normal by anymeans for a first run oil change? I have new side seals, als apex seals and solid corner seals, and an aggressive street port and aggressive exhuast port.
So in the mean time wile there are on order and in route i decide to fix the leak at the rear of the oil pan where the motor mounts go. Word to the wise do not use hex bolts that you can get with a fancy dress up bolt kit for your oil pan, use the original oil pan bolts it is so much easier to use a shorter 10mm socket then it is to use a hex socket or hex wrench if you have to pull the oil pan.
After the long story i come to my point of this thread.....
when draining the oil now mind you i have only had about 1hr running time on this motor at <2000rpm the oil came out looking like graphite lubricant. i used 10w30a w/ half qt of lucus 90w additive.
Now regardless of the oil, is this normal by anymeans for a first run oil change? I have new side seals, als apex seals and solid corner seals, and an aggressive street port and aggressive exhuast port.
06-03-12, 11:14 PM
#3
Doesn't suck
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Ditch the additive. Run the engine for awhile. Rotors are known for diluting the oil and with the issues you've had it wouldn't surprise me if it was cruddy. I've known quite a few perfectly healthy 13B's where the oil smelled like gas by the time it was time for a change.
Your seals may not be fully bedded yet, just give it a change or two. Besides, if it's busted now, it'll stay busted. Maybe it's not busted?
Your seals may not be fully bedded yet, just give it a change or two. Besides, if it's busted now, it'll stay busted. Maybe it's not busted?
06-11-12, 11:07 PM
#6
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The engine needs to break in,so stuff is going to scrape and settle into it's place.Oil will lube the parts and wash away any grit.
by all means there should be a discoloration of oil or else the parts are not seating right.
by all means there should be a discoloration of oil or else the parts are not seating right.
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