Is there any way to get these installed myself? I'm trying to limit what I';; have my mechanic do to save on costs . And doesn't like that? So any step by step guides or anything? That would be great too. Help me fellow rotorheads!

 

Yea, take your time!

If you've never removed a lot of stuff from your FD, it could be quite interesting. You'll need to do:

(1) remove intake extension with throttle body.
(2) remove secondary air injection valves. Held
on by only three fasteners. This makes it easier
to remove the rear injector.
(3) remove injector connectors.
(4) remove injectors.

Make sure to use new O-Rings on your injectors and plan for a lot of time.

 

How much time is alot of time? . BTW, thanks for the response. See here's my current situation. My primaries are fine running at 550cc I believe. The problem is that my boost cuts out at 6500 rpm's since I havn't yet upgraded my fuel pump with my current setup of a t04s single. The secondaries are also limiting this since they are 650cc. I was told that i need to replace it with a 1300cc injector so that my boost won't cut off anymore. So yeah it kinda sucks.

Also in addition, I'm running on a stock ecu with full dp and exhaust as well as a single with only an "upgraded" radiator (I say this cause I was told that it still wasn't big enough for my type of application), stock i/c, stock ecu, stock injectors, and a stock fuel pump.

Any other suggestions on what I NEED to do would be extremely helpful . O btw, I have a feeling you guys will say its a no-no to run on a stock ecu past the 3 mod rule, but I recently bought this car off of somebody who hasn't obviously finished setting up his single. so what would you get if you were in my situation?

 

Well, I'm not sure on your situation. I understand you got the car *as is*. If you can keep the boost down around stock levels, I don't really see a problem.

I believe the stock secondary injector size is 850's so I assume you had a typo in your message.

Personally, I wouldn't upgrade the injectors without also upgrading the fuel pump. I believe canman6969 is running stock injectors on a single turbo but he upgraded his fuel pump:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=2

I'm not going to comment on your setup or what I think you need to do as I'm no expert.

On your original question about how much time... Well, how handy are you with tools? It took me almost 3 hours just to get the elbow, throttle body and UIM off the very first time. It's not really that hard, you just need to take your time and have the shop manual handy. I'm sure if I did it again, it wouldn't take me nearly as long, but that first time can be a b*tch if you aren't a mechanic like me.

 

the stock secondaries are 850cc on an fd. you should also upgrade your fuel pump. and you will need to use a aftermarket computer to run the 1300cc or the car will run like crap. at least mine does with 1300cc when i install the stock ecu (one time i sent my PFC to xs to reprogram it

 

I wouldn't drive the car as is. Let me stress that: I *would not get on boost.* I've blown a motor under boost and it sucks, believe me.

For fuel injectors, another option is to run stock secondaries (850cc) all around. Buy some used stock secondaries for ~$150, and send them to RC Engineering to have them cleaned and flow tested for ~$50. They can fit in your primary injector slots with some modification. Chris at RP (972 530 3335) can give you more info. He claims this setup will support ~400rwhp and is more reliable than the bored out 1300cc secondaries that I'm running.

For a radiator, check out www.absoluteradiator.com

Koyos for ~$380 and Fluidynes for ~$420. I have the Fluidyne, and it works great in this tx summer. And I'm pushing ~360 rwhp on stock twins in this heat, so you know I'm testing the capabilities of the cooling system .

For a fuel pump, look into an OEM Supra Fuel Pump. Supposed to flow enough for ~500rwhp.

Couldn't tell from your post--are you running a midpipe? On a stock ecu, I hope not...

 

Yea its running a mp on a stock ecu actaully. I think that might be bad for boost creep, but I will reinstall the cat if I have to cause I'm limited on the funds i can spend. So I'll just pay for the fuel pump as is I guess and keep the injectors they way they are. I still have some leaks and a left fender rip to take care of so I only have so much cash to use. Any other suggestions? An ECU upgrade right now it out of the question at the moment. So do you recommend a boost controller to lower my boost to no higher than stock (10 psi)? I'm also afriead of detting my motor, but I'm going to take the cheap way at the moment.

 

Dj*BaM|BaM,

If I were in your shoes, I would look to do:

* Upgrade ECU (PowerFC or something)
* Upgrade fuel pump
* Upgrade the IC
* Check boost pattern and add restriction plates to exhaust if spiking or creeping

If you are using a midpipe, a boost controller won't help with boost creep. You either need to port the wastegate or add some restriction on the exhaust.

 

How could I add restriction in the exhaust? Also how about adding the stock turbos back on? I still have them. Is that just safer to do for a newbie like me?

 

Check this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=26389

It has a lot of good info there about controlling boost creep with midpipes.

 

A mechanic I was talking to suggested that I reconnect the wastegate tubing to the downpipe, but he just told me that this cuts down on noise. Does it also cut down on creep? Like I said, I really can't get anything other than fix the leaks and the current fender rip as well as get a fuel pump. So with that as my only viable solution, I need to know exactly what the best thing to do is and it seems that porting the wastegate is the best solution. But i was wondering if just adding the stock cat back on in place of the mid-pipe would be good eough? I don't care about how loud it is, as a matter of fact, I'm trying to cut down on the sound. It also seems that adding a restrictive plate also helps. So a stock cat and a restrictive plate sound good to me? Is that cheaper than porting the wastegate?

I'm seriously thinking about just putting the stock twins back on and not worry about getting a pump yet or anything for that matter. I'm extremely new so I want it to start in stock trim as much as I can.

 

Put your main cat back on. Now. Please. That will give you all the restriction you need, and cut down on noise significantly. It also might save your motor. You won't need the plate with the cat on.

What are you using for boost control with the single turbo?

Btw, the guy that sold you the car wasn't too bright to give it to you in the condition he did. If he would have sold it to someone uneducated in 3rd gens, or without this forum as a resource, the car would have exploded sooner rather than later.

 

I'm not controlling boost with anything. I'm sure that the fuel pump is what is limiting my boost so replacing that would be bad unless I can control the boost. What do you recommend? Like I said, I can't afford an ECU right now so that is out of the question. Ah oh yeah! The funny thing is that even with mp and dp, I did a compression test today and it has run a normal pattern which is good for someone who had it the way he did for 9K miles. I'm pretty sure I owe my low boost to the stock fuel pump. Funny thing is how it seems he never got caught once with boost creep since obviously his reman has been running strong.

Also I'm seriously thinking about just putting the stock twins back on and not worry about getting a pump yet or anything for that matter. I'm extremely new to owning an FD (my 1st) so I want it to start in stock trim as much as I can.

 

It sounds like are running a TO4S single with an external wastegate dump tube, boost creep should not be an issue for you right now. Boost creep is only an issue on the stock twins because the wastegate is not large enough to get the exhaust gases out fast enough.. But damn running a single on stock fuel, intercooler, and ECU sounds like a sure recipe for a blown motor.. be careful. Your boost is being controlled by the wastegate spring if you have no controller.

Matt
93 SSM

 

Thanks mjw, is there any way to verify this about the wastegate? I have a funny feeling that this external wastegate dump tube is something that comes with the TO4S turbo kit. Can this be verified? Also, what is the boost range for the wastegate spring? So I guess I don't need to put my cat back on and also would replacing the fuel pump alter my boost at all? Will this be too much for the wastegate to handle? Thanks guys for all the replies . I'm learning so much.

This would explain how come his reman engine with only 9K miles passed the compression test with flying colors. You would think that he woulda hit a boost creep by now, but since he didn't, I guess that can only be a good thing . But there is still the question about replacing the pump...

 

Well an easy way is to get under the car, the wastegate will be a funny looking thing mounted to the exhaust manifold. The dump tube from the wastegate (which release excess exhaust gases when your desired boost level is reached) will either be open to the atmosphere.. which is extremely loud on boost, or run back to the downpipe and welded on downstream of the turbo. I think that is what your mechanic was referring to.. get the wastegate tube welded to the downpipe and that will keep the noise down some.

I have no idea what your wastegate spring is set at, they come with different stiffness settings (8psi, 12psi, 15psi etc) so who knows what is inside yours. Replacing your fuel pump would do nothing to alter your boost and probably not your fuel mixture much either. Most single turbo wastegates can handle a whole lot of boost, 20psi and up usually. Good luck.

Matt

 

Thanks a bunch man, you sure have calmed me down and made me feel better. I guess I really don't need to replace anything at all it seems except the fuel pump. i was told to upgrade the fuel pump since this will stop from my boost getting cut-off at 6500 rpm's at WOT. That kinda sounds like it plays a role in controlling boost sorta, but since SP Engineering did all the work for him, I would think that they would tell him that he needed more than just a new fuel pump to run his turbo properly.

Or is it my secondary fuel injectors that aren't letting me run it to redline? I'm getting all confused now lol.

Also do you recommend that I get a boost controller to make sure I set my boost at a desired level? I didn't want to boost past 10 psi since this single upgrade is so unstable at the moment.

I also checked the 3rd gear WOT test and it runs a constant boost pattern of 10-10-10 right now, but like I said, due to the small fuel pump, it "chokes" at 6500 rpm's. Guess that's also a good thing.

Also are boost spikes going to be a problem?

EDIT: Geez, I just wen tto rx7store.net to check on boost controller prices and they are way too much now, I'd rather just save up and get an EMS later. It seems like everything is running fine so there's no rush just as long as I don't do any more power mods anytime soon .

 

ok here it is for you. The reason to boost cuts out is not the fuel pump. It cuts out beacuse the stock ecu Will not allow boost above 10-12 psi depending on rpms. It has a boost cut bulit in to protect the motor. You are screwed in a way. There is no way he ran this for 9k or 1k. He had a ecu (more than likely a Apexi PFC) And took it out and sold it to his buddy or what ever and fed you this line. Here's your choices:
1. Find out what waste gate your running(Greddy , HKS, Apexi etc..) Get a low as possible Spring 7, 10 psi. run it like that till you can get a PFC or like ECU. Middle/ low risk and you can run the car.
2. Take the spring out or cut it so you have little to no boost and run it till you have cash. Low risk but car is pretty slow.
3. Bitch slap that guy for bagging you.
There is alot more going on with that car, take it to a real shop and have them look it over for other mods at least.
PS Boost creep and spikes are a problem that the twins have, singles rarely have that problem.

 

Dj*BaM|BaM,

Fuel cut is controlled by boost, not by the injectors (or fuel pump). Upgrading the ECU is how you'll remove the lower fuel cut limit.

At this point, it may be a good thing that it's happening until you can afford to set the car up correctly.

 

DOH! 7 eleven already posted.

 

Hahah. Thanks guys . Hey guess what, guess I don't need to buy anything! Except fix that fender and the leaks. I don't have enough for all those mods right now since I'm pretty sure it's advised that I get it all at once.

i think that he did part out with some stuff nwo that I think about it. It makes sense since he gets such low prices. He just resells and make a killing.

 

I agree with 7 eleven on this subject. I would be very carefull with this setup.

 

Haha thanks, but there's not much i can do at the moment since I have that awkward feeling that he yanked his powerFC cause he is a turd like that. Anywho, it seems liek you guys don't think that I need the fuel pump yet. I guess I won't benefit for having it until after I get the powerFC it seems. Is this correct?

 

The stock injectors, if run at 100% duty cycle for a prolonged period of time, can stick closed and blow your motor.

I think their limit is ~330 rhwp, give or take. If you limit the boost, your stock injectors (and fuel pump) might be fine for now.

As much as it sucks, my advice to you is to get a Power FC, now. If you have to, charge it. Among other things, you'll be able to get tuned and monitor things such as boost, water temp, intake air temp, and injector duty cycle accurately.

Also, I would put the main cat back on for now.

It's a hell of a lot cheaper than a motor, which is the road I see you heading down (fingers crossed)...

 

Well I dont want to replace the motor just yet, this one still has an entire life cycle ahead of it. I want to get the PowerFC, I really do, but I still need to worry about other things at the moment. But all I can say is that my boost will not be going any higher than 10 psi, and that's a fact since that is the spring value that my HKS wastegate is using. I was boosting 10 psi across the board on 3rd WOT so I know that is true. I know that putting the stock cat back on would help, but I was just planning on welding the tubing to the dp to reduce the noise. Actually, wouldn't adding the cat restrict airflow and actaully worsen the situation rather than help it?

O btw, with the powerfc, will i be able to limit the boost to 10 psi still or is that still the wastegate's job to release all those extra exhaust gases according to whatever the spring rating is?