Well here is a question to those who have a tuned a S-AFC:

Did you see any improvement on the MPG after the S-afc was tuned?

I am trying to justify the expense , and\or waiting for the E-manage to come with the FULL software version available to everybody!

Thanks,

Elio

 

TTT

 

Yeah, what he said!

 

how hard would it be, with a universial piggyback system, like the E-Manage, to put a different MAF Sensor on your car???

 

A piggyback system will not allow an AFM change. For that (or to eliminate the damn thing altogether) you need a full standalone ECU.

 

You can with the Greddy E-Manage.

 

I noticed maybe a 1-2mpg difference. But i usually have a pretty heavy foot. CJ

 

it's hard for me to compare...i put my s-afc after i dropped in my ported motor, so i haven't seen an increase in mpg, but my foot gained a few more pounds too.

if i had to guess at it, it probably did increase my mpg since i'm still getting about the same mpg.

john

 

The only way I could justify it was if you were running bigger injectors and n2o. I was thinking about buying one today, but I decided to get an a/f gauge and see how rich I am running...

 

Thnaks guy!

Rico - Telling just by the gauge, you will be RUNNING RICH must of the time!!


Trust me

 

Don't count on the gauge to do anything more than give you a general, rough idea of where your car was running. When i first bought my car, I installed one because of now power beyond like 5k. It ready two bars rich, and come to find out, i had a dead secondary injector that was'nt even firing! Be warned. CJ

 

If you had headers, keep in mind the o2 sensor is only on the exhuast stream of ONE rotor... obviously the one that wasn't leaning out.

As for S-AFC on an N/A... I've said it a hundred times, you need most bolt ons for it to be worthwhile (ie, full exhaust, intake) since the ECU runs more and more rich the more airflow there is... but you will get tons of gain by leaning the midrange, (up to 20hp) and some up top too....(maybe 5-10) Makes for a great powerband.
But it all depends on how the car is running. Most likely it's too rich though, and can be leaned out for more power.
Oh ya, and stock o2 sensors suck- it's like trying to measure something using a tape measure made of rubber bands...

 

Well I have all the bolt ons, I just can't justify the $$$ for just a couple of HP (at least not now). I was asking because if it will save me gas (due to leaning it out) it may be cost efficient at the end of the year, so the extra HP would be a secondary benefit (in the eyes of my girl)

As I said before, I don't trust my A/F Autometer gauge; However a forum member told me that they are all basically the same. At the moment I am running a Bosch O2 sensor and am seeing the same exact readings as with the stock O2.

My gaguge says that I'm running rich at all times.

 

The racing beat headers, have the 02 sensor after the collector, so you would get bolth rotors exaust gasses. CJ

 

Oh, cool, I didn't know that...

My PaceShitter one is on the front rotor only.... pretty dumb.... since the rear one has the fuel cut for decel and acell- the one you want to look at if you have fuel delivery/smoothness probs...

Anyways- ya, the gauge doesn't make a LICK of difference... they are ALL just VOLTMETERS.....
It's the sensor that is the determinate- and 1 wire sensor can only tell you basically if your engine is running or not!
Well... ok, before people jump down my back- you can tune vagely with it- only to the point to where your engine is running well, but not to the point where you can be squeezing the extra HP by leaning it close to the margin...
They are partially accurate around 14.7:1, and while cruising (coicidentally, the only point where the stock ECU uses it!) .. but that's it- at full throttle they are useless since the unusually high rotary exhaust heat totally fudges the readings!!