Here's the deal.
When every the rev's in my car reach 3k rpms I get knock readings around 140-160. No boost, just cruising along on the freeway. If I punch it & boost builds or just increase rev's, the #'s go down. Under 3k rpms, the #'s are 30-40's, It appears to be RPM related only.
My engine seams to have some weird harmonic vibration at 3K.
Could my IGL/IGT map be at fault? IM using the base mod map tweaked slightly with "cewrx7r1" input.
Thanks,

 

It's a long shot, but are you running aftermarket pulleys? I had read one of their downsides are that they introduce harmonics into the engine that the stock ones were specifically built to remove.

 

What are your mods and how many miles on the engine?

In the Mazda Comp Catalog, they have rebuild tips. One has to do with the clearance between the rotor housing and rotor faces near the apex seal when the rotor face is almost parallel to the housing surface. If too tight, metal has to be ground from the rotor face to prevent hitting. This is usually only a problem with high reving race engines, but could occur in old engines with loose rotor bearings.

 

Motor was rebuilt 10k miles ago (h20 seal failure) with 3mm apex seal upgrade & I replaced the knock sensor (wax melting).
I do have the full set of Unorthodox pulleys installed. Interesting, I never thought about the pulleys contributing, sounds feasible.
What's weird is if I punch it at 2k rpm, the knock levels stay low through the 3k rpm area of question. That's why I was thinking it might be ignition timing related.
IM going to look over my Ignition map & see what the differences are on the 3k cells from - to + boost.

I was curious if anyone else had experienced the same thing, but I know the "Knock Readings" question has been posted numerous times.....

Thanks to all the replied,

 

Hey Sled Driver, I'm getting the same readings..Do you have an Atkins rebuild w/ 3mm with shaved rotors?? Although, I don't have the harmonic thing goin, maybe it's our NW air..??

 

I would say it's the specific cells you are in at that time. when you punch it you use differant cells then you use during cruise. It can't hurt to remove timing just make sure you remove both leading and trailing.
what you may want to do, cruise at teh rmp where you see the "knock" then without changing speed or load (ie hold it steady) go to the settings menu IGL,IGT,INJ combination screen.... and on teh fly pull first trailing then leading timing... then toggle back to you readings and see what happened. Of course you could always find the small cluster of cells you think are at fault, and change them individually. This should pretty quickly tell you if is is "knock " or Noise say from pulleys.
One thing I find to be invaluable with tuning is a passanger/driver that also has some tuning skills.

 

I had my engine rebuilt once and afterwards had very similar numbers to what you are reporting. I added some wire to the knock sensor and relocated it to the rear rotor housing and the numbers got better. I just recently had my engine rebuilt again, and this time it is back to normal. I would have to say it has to do with the rebuild more than any kind of detonation. I tried everything to get rid of the knock... retard the **** out of the timing, add more fuel but nothing worked. I think I was getting some kind of apex seal chatter that the sensor was picking up. The car ran fine but it sure did drive me crazy...

 

anyone have more info on this? I am experiencing the same thing. Relatively new motor from malloy with about 5k or so on it. I am goign in for tuning soon but i want to make sure they won't blow it on the dyno since the selection for tuning here where i live is kind of limited.