Anybody ever tried this method for fixing white smoke problem?
02-20-02, 11:25 AM
#1
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Anybody ever tried this method for fixing white smoke problem?
This was posted by stinkfist about 6 months ago. Has anybody used this method? I know it's only temporary, but it may buy me some time so I can save up for my SP.
Hear is a bandaid fix that has been known to work when performed properly. It usually last about a year. Just follow the instructions exactly. It will give you more time to save up for that rebuild.
Origanally posted on the FB mailing list by Dale Thomas:
My 'spare' Turbo II was leaking large amounts of
water into the
engine
as well (front and rear). It got so bad that it
wouldn't start
without
removing the plugs and turning over the motor to
blast out the 1/2
cup
or so of water that was inside!
You guys may have a hard time believing this, but
the motor is fixed
(for now) and running better than it did before.
Total cost: $25
Paul Yaw at YawPower performed this emergency
surgery to my vehicle
to
keep me rolling while we finish the Vortech blown
Turbo II that'll be
ready soon. He had done this to another motor
before and the repair
has
lasted for two years on that motor (in his ported
rotary shop truck).
If you're interested in what is to be considered
a temporary fix,
read
on.
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some
Purple Power degreaser
from
Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with
copper granules
blended
in.
The process takes *hours* but can be very
worthwhile! Step 1: Clean
the
heck out of the cooling system - drain the
radiator, fill with water
and degreaser, run the motor until warm. Step 2:
Repeat 5 or 6 more
times. Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with
water only and run the
motor until warm. Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times.
You must rinse the
system with water until no degreaser is left
inside, this is *very*
important. Step 5: When you are sure that the
cooling system is very
clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of
Block Weld (no
anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30
minutes). This
hardens
the Block Weld where the water is leaking into
the motor. Do not rev
the motor into high RPM during this process! Step
6: Leave the motor
off for a minimum of three hours. Step 7: Drive
for 20-30 minutes in
the local area to make sure that the repair has
worked. Keep the RPM
down! If successful, drain a small amount of
water from the radiator
and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking
water into the
engine,
add another bottle of Block Weld and run the
engine for 20-30
minutes.
Let stand for three hours again. Test drive
again. Step 8: Drive the
car around like you used to... assuming that the
process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform
because you have to start
the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the
steps. Don't forget
to
pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to
push out the water
prior
to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out
of my motor
throughout the process! I have been driving the
car pretty hard since
the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now
starts easily, has
plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to
be added to the
system
since I added the Block Weld (about two months
ago). It was a lot
easier to do this temporary fix than to go out
and buy another
motor/car, especially since my other one is
almost done.
If your motor is shot (like mine was) you've got
nothing to lose. If
it
works for you thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His
crappy little shop
truck
has been driven pretty hard for two years after
this same kind of
temporary fix. He claims that his truck's motor
was blowing even more
water out of it than mine was.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block
Weld, it will not
work
for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed
above. Be very
aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of
the cooling system.
__________________
88 T2, Project 10AE
84 gsl, Moded
92 ford F150
SCCA IT-7 #67
Origanally posted on the FB mailing list by Dale Thomas:
My 'spare' Turbo II was leaking large amounts of
water into the
engine
as well (front and rear). It got so bad that it
wouldn't start
without
removing the plugs and turning over the motor to
blast out the 1/2
cup
or so of water that was inside!
You guys may have a hard time believing this, but
the motor is fixed
(for now) and running better than it did before.
Total cost: $25
Paul Yaw at YawPower performed this emergency
surgery to my vehicle
to
keep me rolling while we finish the Vortech blown
Turbo II that'll be
ready soon. He had done this to another motor
before and the repair
has
lasted for two years on that motor (in his ported
rotary shop truck).
If you're interested in what is to be considered
a temporary fix,
read
on.
The recipe: two cans of Block Weld and some
Purple Power degreaser
from
Pep Boys. The Block Weld is a clear liquid with
copper granules
blended
in.
The process takes *hours* but can be very
worthwhile! Step 1: Clean
the
heck out of the cooling system - drain the
radiator, fill with water
and degreaser, run the motor until warm. Step 2:
Repeat 5 or 6 more
times. Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with
water only and run the
motor until warm. Step 4: Repeat 2 or 3 times.
You must rinse the
system with water until no degreaser is left
inside, this is *very*
important. Step 5: When you are sure that the
cooling system is very
clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of
Block Weld (no
anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30
minutes). This
hardens
the Block Weld where the water is leaking into
the motor. Do not rev
the motor into high RPM during this process! Step
6: Leave the motor
off for a minimum of three hours. Step 7: Drive
for 20-30 minutes in
the local area to make sure that the repair has
worked. Keep the RPM
down! If successful, drain a small amount of
water from the radiator
and add some anti-freeze. If it's still leaking
water into the
engine,
add another bottle of Block Weld and run the
engine for 20-30
minutes.
Let stand for three hours again. Test drive
again. Step 8: Drive the
car around like you used to... assuming that the
process worked!
This process can be a real pain to perform
because you have to start
the motor to accomplish the warm ups during the
steps. Don't forget
to
pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to
push out the water
prior
to each start up. Cups and cups of water came out
of my motor
throughout the process! I have been driving the
car pretty hard since
the temporary fix and it has held up well. It now
starts easily, has
plenty of power, and hasn't needed any water to
be added to the
system
since I added the Block Weld (about two months
ago). It was a lot
easier to do this temporary fix than to go out
and buy another
motor/car, especially since my other one is
almost done.
If your motor is shot (like mine was) you've got
nothing to lose. If
it
works for you thank Paul Yaw at YawPower. His
crappy little shop
truck
has been driven pretty hard for two years after
this same kind of
temporary fix. He claims that his truck's motor
was blowing even more
water out of it than mine was.
If you follow the directions on the can of Block
Weld, it will not
work
for this type of repair! Follow the steps listed
above. Be very
aggressive in your efforts to clean the inside of
the cooling system.
__________________
88 T2, Project 10AE
84 gsl, Moded
92 ford F150
SCCA IT-7 #67
Last edited by jimmyv13; 02-20-02 at 11:27 AM.
02-20-02, 11:45 AM
#2
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I've used Stop-Leak when I had a hairline crack in one of the coolant passages. Previously I was blowing exhaust into the radiator.
The fix bought me 6 months. I'm sure I could have gotten at least nine months, but I refused to stop autocrossing. When I got enough money for the motor, I was still driving the car every day and it easily made it to the shop under it's own power.
Remember: All the crap you put in there will not just gravitate to the leak, but cling to other areas on your cooling system. You'll need to flush things our very thoroughly after everything is fixed correctly.
The fix bought me 6 months. I'm sure I could have gotten at least nine months, but I refused to stop autocrossing. When I got enough money for the motor, I was still driving the car every day and it easily made it to the shop under it's own power.
Remember: All the crap you put in there will not just gravitate to the leak, but cling to other areas on your cooling system. You'll need to flush things our very thoroughly after everything is fixed correctly.
02-20-02, 12:00 PM
#3
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I'm getting a SP in about a month. My motor is blowing white smoke and I just need it to last a bit longer. The car is at my parents house so I can't look at it either. My Dad has been starting it for me once a week and he said it started smoking last week. When I was home over Christmas break, I drove it for a few days and it didn't smoke at all. I had to leave it there because I have a bad rear end bearing and I didn't want to drive it 4 hours back to school in that condition. While I was home, I changed the oil, Castrol 20W/50, OEM filter and put a quart of MMO in each, the sump and the fuel tank. When I opened up the filler cap, I noticed the white sludgy garbage in the neck, but the oil in the pan was fine.
Now, my Dad says it smokes too bad to drive it. WTH?? He says he has to start it at night, so the neighbors won't call the Fire Dept. I really hope this Block Weld or Stop Leak buys me some time so I can get it back to school and then on down to Tennessee for the SP install.
Any thoughts, or comments?
Now, my Dad says it smokes too bad to drive it. WTH?? He says he has to start it at night, so the neighbors won't call the Fire Dept. I really hope this Block Weld or Stop Leak buys me some time so I can get it back to school and then on down to Tennessee for the SP install.
Any thoughts, or comments?
02-21-02, 08:03 AM
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I did that once, and it fixed the prob for about 4 months till I blew an Aoex seel(unrelated). It is a last option resort only though. The prob with it is it make the water passages smaller than they should be, cuz they get all gunked up. BUT if you are leeking water into the motor, there isnt a whole lot of options so I say go for it. Use the block saler thats clear with copper flakes, I think its made by c&C orC&R or somethinig
Goodluck
Fred
Goodluck
Fred
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02-28-02, 09:38 AM
#14
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Well, the white smoke was oil and fuel. I had 10W30 in for winter and some MMO in the sump and it was blowing right by the oil control rings because the oil was so thin. I drained the oil and put in 20W50 and the smoking is almost gone, just a bit on start up and that's it. It appears to be running rich and I'll get to that this weekend. I'll probably do the water injection to clean some of the carbon out. All in all, the car runs pretty good considering it has 158K on it and I only paid $150 for it. I have a bad wheel bearing or differential bearing that I will get fixed this weekend, but other than that, the car is good. I'm happy with it and it was worth $150 
.
Sorry it took me so long to reply.... my Mom went into the hospital with pnemonia the day I was supposed to return to school, Tuesday. I stayed until wed night and she was going to be released thus or fri. Her lungs were 95% filled with fluid from being sick. She ok now.... her lungs are down to 25% filled. I was pretty scared for a while..she quit breathing and went into shock because of the lack of oxygen in her system.
Anyway, all that is over and she's fine.
. Sorry it took me so long to reply.... my Mom went into the hospital with pnemonia the day I was supposed to return to school, Tuesday. I stayed until wed night and she was going to be released thus or fri. Her lungs were 95% filled with fluid from being sick. She ok now.... her lungs are down to 25% filled. I was pretty scared for a while..she quit breathing and went into shock because of the lack of oxygen in her system.
Anyway, all that is over and she's fine.
02-28-02, 09:50 AM
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Yeah, it's been a shitty spring break for me, I'm just glad I was home to help at the time this happened and not off in Jamaica drinking myself stupid.
07-20-02, 10:36 AM
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I recentaly ran across this problem. I got white smoke and was hard to start but once it did it pushed all the antifreeze out of the radiator. Is this a diff problem or would this fix help it last long enough for me to save up some money for a rebuild?
kleach
kleach
10-21-02, 01:54 PM
#22
A few years ago I tried Blok Weld on an old GSLSE I had. I followed the directions on the bottle and sure enough, it didn't do anything.
I read this post about a year ago and decided to try it on another 7 I had. It worked great. Its been a year and the car still runs fine and uses no coolant.
However in both instances, the water pump went out about a month after I put in the Blok Weld. I'm guessing the copper in the BW worked its way into the bearing on the H2O pump and ruined it.
This technique is obviously only a last resort, but it kept my old beater from going to the JY.
I read this post about a year ago and decided to try it on another 7 I had. It worked great. Its been a year and the car still runs fine and uses no coolant.
However in both instances, the water pump went out about a month after I put in the Blok Weld. I'm guessing the copper in the BW worked its way into the bearing on the H2O pump and ruined it.
This technique is obviously only a last resort, but it kept my old beater from going to the JY.
10-21-02, 07:46 PM
#23
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People used to put egg whites in the coolant to do the same thing. The egg woould cook of course, but it would also try to go through the leak/crack, get caught in it and seal it. Sunny side up, please!
White smoke can also be brake fluid from a master leaking into the brake booster. The engine vacuum would draw the fluid in to the engine. You will have been adding brake fluid for awhile before this happens, so there is a definite indicator.
White smoke can also be brake fluid from a master leaking into the brake booster. The engine vacuum would draw the fluid in to the engine. You will have been adding brake fluid for awhile before this happens, so there is a definite indicator.
11-11-02, 11:42 PM
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I did this about three weeks ago and my car has run great since then but my water pump went out as well. Right before it went out my heater stopped working. I replaced the water pump and still no heater. I understand basically how the heater system works so i got under my dash and saw one pipe for the heater core, it was hot. Havent pulled anything off yet to see if the entire core is hot but i'm assuming it probably is. Now for my question. While doing the water pump it seemed like the entire front piece that holds on a few brackets and that the water pump attaches to kinda wiggled forward a little. Is that normal? It all went back together fine but seems coolant may be going somewhere. Its not being burnt like would make sense, b/c theres no bubbles in the coolant. I'm going to try flushing the system really well tommorrow, anyone have a diagram of where the heater hoses go through the firewall so i can flush it as well? Oh yea, coolant is now being pulled from the overflow, so that would mean there's not any leaks internally, right? B/c of pressure and all. I'm pretty confused but i do know that my temp's on the stock gauge seem great, even if the cooling system is less than full. Any enlightenment would be sooo greatly appreciated.