I have bought my second seven last week, it is a 90 GSL with 74K miles.
I inspecting all the fluids and saw that the clutch fluid was near the low mark. Then I noticed that the brake fluid reservior was leaking at the base where it meets the master cylinder. is there a way to repair that? change an o-ring or something? or do I have get a new master cylinder :-(

if so where can I get a new one pretty cheap? also where can get one of those pumps to pump out the brake fluids through the bleeder holes to flush the system?

TIA

 

they all leak.

all of them.

 

DITTO to the above. Same company who gave you wiper switches that don't work, logicons that don't work, cpu's that don't function, idiot light clusters that don't work blah, blah, blah etc Half the fun of owning one of these cars is fixing them. Never a dull moment.

 

Before you forget about it, see if the leaking brake fluid has disolved the paint on the frame rail... You have to scrape the paint to check it.

The paint looks fine... until you realize you're scraping it off with your fingernail!
s

 

You can try a "rebuild seal kit" for <$50, but it's no guarantee.&nbsp You're better off getting a new brake master cylinder.


-Ted

 

did GSL's have an ABS system? If it does, check that abs box because good money says it's leaking (I'm on my 2nd leaky abs in my t2, switching to non abs as soon as I can)

 

Yo,


Dammit, I knew I shouldn't have cleaned all the grease and junk off that frame rail. Now the brake fluid has a straight shot to the paint, and yep, it's hashed. My fluid level is fine, but the **** just drips? How would replacing the mastercylinder help if it's the connection between the resevoir and the mastercylinder that's leaking? Are the new ones redesigned in some way? Inquiring minds wanna know!

KS
1989 GTUs "I guess I'll put some heat tape to cover up my bald spot.."

 

nope, no abs.
rarestRX - you are correct it is leaking (more like seeping) from the base of the fluid reservior where it meets the master cylinder.

I saw photos of master cyl. on that mazda part site, it did include a new fluid reservoir, which I find odd, but with a 122$ price tag, ouch!

 

Ray Crowe at Malloy MAzda hooked me up on the brake master for my T2, it was like 85 bucks if I remember. Maybe that was the clutch master... I forget. But I don't think it was anywhere near $122. I bought it at the same time as my water pump so I don't remember exactly.

 

complete master cylinder $15C at local wrecking yard - at same time replaced both front flex hoses and bled system - one man brake bleeding kit about $10 at local parts store.

 

I just this hour went to PepBoys and got a rebuilt for 45 bucks. They had the rebuild kit for 65 bucks. The man just shook his head in bewilderment. My wifes car was more than the base of the reservior leaking. Could have bought a piece of junk, but its got RAybestos written on the box, Maybe thats a good sign.

 

If you wish to fix the leak(s),you can buy the rubber bushes which seal the reservoir to the M/C---Mazda part no is 0305-49-686B-you need 2.The job can be done with the M/C in the car-just use a syringe to lower the brake fluid level,ease the reservoir off carefully,remove the bushes ,insert new ones,install reservoir,fill with brake fluid.I use Girling rubber grease on the bushes before reinstalling them(the red stuff).

 

Six Rotors - u da man, thanks for the cheap fix.

I bought the castrol LMA dot 4 brake fluid as suggested by someone on another thread.

ianbell - what did your one man bleeding kit contain. did it have the pump to pump out the old fluid through the bleeder, so you do not have to sit in the car and compress the brake pedal?

 

With the bleed kit, you get a little plastic bottle and some vinyl hose of various sizes - you just hook it up and pump the pedal a few times - it works as a one-way valve not allowing any air or old fluid to go back into the system - why would you need a pump to move the fluid when the system is a pump?
Ian

 

I just changed my master cylinder because my brakes were a little mushy and it was leaking. Well is still leaking, and the brakes are still mushy!! LOL.... My MBC has new bushings, and it still leaks a TINY bit. Oh well

 

I repaired it with the part that six rotors suggested.
it was a bitch to pull off the reservior and it was a nearly impossible to put em back on.
here what we had to do:

first inserted the rubber bushes in to the holes in the master cylinder, then inserted 1 of the reservior opening at a time by twisting it to one side inserting one and the aligning the second one and pressing it in.

The reservior had lot of crap build up in it. My buddy cleaned it with some brake cleaning spray and then cleaned off everything with compressed air.

 

Did this stop the leak?

 

This is exactly correct. There is no need what so ever to rebuild the whole thing, or replace it if it is just leaking at the bushings.

The bushings even from a Mazda dealer are less than $10 total, and replacing them takes... what? maybe 15 minutes.

And no wonder people keep complaining about the cost of parts on our cars if you are replacing the whole thing.

 

The bushing fix does work. My Mazda dealer had them in stock for around $7-8. Not too bad. But before I had a chance to replace the bushings, the master started leaking internally. I got a new one from NOPI for under $70 shipped. It's made by Tokico.

 

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to be replacing the bushings and and oil pedestal o-rings when I pull the engine in two weeks.

 

Try using two large hose clamps to hold the resevoir tighter against the master cylinder. Be careful not to tighten too much...This has always worked for me.

And yes, they [b]all[/i] leak...

 

My 87 RX7 FC has encountered the same issue :/ every morning I wake up to an almost empty reservoir. I went ahead and out some silicone around the surrounding areas as a last ditch attempt to fix it... I've spent countless hours and hundreds of dollars on it already.. I'm slowly dying from the inside lol

 

why dont you try the dealer for the rubber grommets that is used to seal it? you drain the reservoir and pry it off, replace 2 rubber seals and apply a little brake fluid to lube them up and pop it back on then fill it back up. done.

not to mention letting it go on is just going to bubble up your paint and eventually start rusting components.

 

15 year thread necro nice. but you can get new brake master cylinders on rock auto for cheap. ive been running a Centric one for about 2 years with no issues.

 

A link would be highly appreciated (: Rotary life sucks