I thought it was mounted behind the glove box but I didn't see anything that looked quite like an ecu...lol. That lil black box in the driver's side kick panel isn't what controls the car, is it?

 

Ok....I know now that the lil black box on the ds kick panel isn't for sure...lol...but I'm finding different kinds on ebay. What's the difference between N326 and N327 and such?

 

I am assuming you are talking about the engine management ECU? If so it is located under a metal cover, that is under the passenger side carpet where you rest your feet. Take out the passenger side kick panel and pull the carpet back you will see a metal cover held in by 4, 10mm bolts. The ECU is under there.

- Dana

 

cool beans! I think this may be one of my problems with my 87...gonna swap the ECU's and hope that I don't idle at 4000 rpm anymore.

 

NO not goin to be the ECU

 

how do you figure? wasn't anything else that I could find...

 

awww...come one Dan...I thought you knew what my problem is...

 

yes, very dumb question! with 605 post and you don't even know anything about your car man come on. please research before you spend your money.

 

I know more than you...I'll leave it at that. Help or stay out of my threads.

Sorry Ice...should have thought of something better top say.

 

Idling at 4K is not goint to be ECU related, but more than likely related to the idle adjustment or mixture adjustment with a vacuum leak.

 

Things I have done...

different injectors
adjusted/cleaned/ tried multiple throttle bodies
adjusted multiple TPS sensors
plugs/wires
pulled and re-gasketed the intake manifold many many times
checked manifolds repeatedly for leaks using water or B-12
adjusted/lubed all throttle linkage
AFM...tried several, and filters

edited cuz it sounded rude...

I mean, thanks ice, but I've tried all the simple logical stuff. The ECU is the last thing that I can think of to attempt.

 

A few other things I would be looking at:

if you disconnect all the throttle linkages (including Cruise- if equipped) did that do anything???

Do you have the fast idle cam still connected?

Have you cleaned or replaced the BAC?

 

No change. Short of totally blocking off the flow of air there is no change in idle.

Quote:

Do you have the fast idle cam still connected?

Nope, connected/disconnected makes no difference.

Quote:

Have you cleaned or replaced the BAC?

Yep...slight change in engine sound but not in idle.

I'm telling it's a ghost or something. Don Marvel even said it was.

 

well if it was a ECU problem, disconnecting the BAC would solve the problem.

what was done on the engine to cause this problem??? You didn't buy the car this way, right???

 

Was your engine peripheral ported without your knowledge?


Seriously, the god damn thing must be getting that air from somewhere, right? Now that's a real mystery.

 

This engine was purches for my 87 NA. Ran great...it was the engine I got her into the 13's (barely) with. Later, I came across an S5. The engine in it had a blown water seal and I couldn't find/afford a replacement so I thought I'd put my S4 block in it and let her rip. So I match all the S5 stuff to me S4 block and drop it in. Immediately it starts but runs like ****...and at 3K rpm. After some attempts to get it to work in the S5 I scrapped the project and put it back in the S4, just the way it was pulled. From there it's never idled bellow 2800rpm. It's gotten worse and worse, now it sticks at 4K and no slower. Any faster and it acts like it's trying to spin dead weight...like it's just not firing above 4K or something.

 

lol...out of suggestions? This is why I was falling on my last resort and hoping that just maybe something could be wrong with the engine management.

 

Is it possible your cruise control isnt stuck on the on position and keeping the revs high or maybe your throttle cable is too tight? Just some ideas.

 

thought about that but tossed it out when I realized I didn't have cruise...:p

 

Sorry, I logged off for the night.

When you swapped, you did check the timing right??? Is your CAS set properly???

and do you still have the AWS valve on??? I am assuming that you blocked it off (big brass valve hooked up on the back of the dynamic chamber).

 

lol...had to go check to make sure I remembered what the AWS valve is...

Yes, the timing was accurate...not dead on but very close. Thing that confused me the most was that the closer to dead nut timed it got the higher it idled...but I tried three different CAS sensors.

The AWS valve was blocked off the last time the intake was pulled. Prior to that it was on but there was no change in situation.