air vent solinoid question
07-07-03, 05:32 PM
#4
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Yes, you either need to keep it hooked up or you need to remove the plug inside. The black wire w/white stripe unplugs the solenoid when the ignition is on. In the off position, a plastic plug is pushed up against the breather vent in the carb so that no fumes can escape into the atmosphere. When this is not hooked up, the carburetor cannot vent, and will flood.
You could also use a wrench to remove the float bowl solenoid and remove the plastic plug, and reinstall the solenoid. Cut the wire, and you're all set.
You could also use a wrench to remove the float bowl solenoid and remove the plastic plug, and reinstall the solenoid. Cut the wire, and you're all set.
07-07-03, 05:38 PM
#5
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Originally posted by Sterling
Yes, you either need to keep it hooked up or you need to remove the plug inside. The black wire w/white stripe unplugs the solenoid when the ignition is on. In the off position, a plastic plug is pushed up against the breather vent in the carb so that no fumes can escape into the atmosphere. When this is not hooked up, the carburetor cannot vent, and will flood.
You could also use a wrench to remove the float bowl solenoid and remove the plastic plug, and reinstall the solenoid. Cut the wire, and you're all set.
Yes, you either need to keep it hooked up or you need to remove the plug inside. The black wire w/white stripe unplugs the solenoid when the ignition is on. In the off position, a plastic plug is pushed up against the breather vent in the carb so that no fumes can escape into the atmosphere. When this is not hooked up, the carburetor cannot vent, and will flood.
You could also use a wrench to remove the float bowl solenoid and remove the plastic plug, and reinstall the solenoid. Cut the wire, and you're all set.
thx
07-07-03, 07:31 PM
#7
Registered Piston Eater
i took out my rats nest a while ago and didnt know about removing the plug....maybe thats why my car runs like crap...ill go rip the plug out when i can perswade my *** to get out of this chair.
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07-07-03, 11:35 PM
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The float bowl solenoid is located dead center of the main housing on the drivers side. There is a right angle pipe sticking out the left side of the brass threaded bung. The PCV hose runs from this small pipe to the PCV valve, which then splits going to the rest of the rats nest (I believe) and also to the charcoal canister. Also entering the charcoal canister is a ventalation tube associated with the fuel tank.
Any time you remove the rats nest, you must retain the PCV (positive crank ventalation) system intact. If you do not, then the crank case cannot expell water that collects in the oil from cumbustion blowby gas as a natural exhaust component. This water vapor will saturate and overwhelm the microscopic spiro-particals that are designed to trap water molecules and are vitaly important additives to engine oil. Droplets will then condense on the inside of your engine. The water will continue to accumulate in mass and through this constant cycle of heating and vaporizing followed by condensing, you will begin to see a white emulsion of oil and water collected in the steel oil filler spout. This emulsion is elsewhere in your engine, too. (Just because you can't see it does'nt mean it's not there.) In very little time, the inside of the tube will rust.
Iron oxide is abrasive. You don't want flakes of rust abrasing the inside of your engine or particals plugging oil journals.
Boingers suffer the same problem. The PCV valve eliminates this problem as it uses engine vacuum to suck out the heated, vaporized water. The vapor goes thru the carb and engine unnoticed and does not impede performance.
S'all I know.
Any time you remove the rats nest, you must retain the PCV (positive crank ventalation) system intact. If you do not, then the crank case cannot expell water that collects in the oil from cumbustion blowby gas as a natural exhaust component. This water vapor will saturate and overwhelm the microscopic spiro-particals that are designed to trap water molecules and are vitaly important additives to engine oil. Droplets will then condense on the inside of your engine. The water will continue to accumulate in mass and through this constant cycle of heating and vaporizing followed by condensing, you will begin to see a white emulsion of oil and water collected in the steel oil filler spout. This emulsion is elsewhere in your engine, too. (Just because you can't see it does'nt mean it's not there.) In very little time, the inside of the tube will rust.
Iron oxide is abrasive. You don't want flakes of rust abrasing the inside of your engine or particals plugging oil journals.
Boingers suffer the same problem. The PCV valve eliminates this problem as it uses engine vacuum to suck out the heated, vaporized water. The vapor goes thru the carb and engine unnoticed and does not impede performance.
S'all I know.
07-08-03, 11:31 AM
#11
Registered Piston Eater
when i took my rats nest i kept the purge valve with all the hoses hooked to the right places so my crankcase ventalation should be fine. thanks for the info. ill go find the solenoid in the next couple days. when the plug is in, why exactly does the carb flood? ill guess and you tell me if im right...the floats keep a specific amount of fuel in the float boal. gas evaporates very easily and fumes collect in the air above the liquid gas. if it is pluged, the fumes will eventually condense and make the float level too high?.....
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