RollnDrty

Alright, I am about to get a compression test to determine the condition my engine is in. Anyone who followed my last thread about possible detonation from overboosting knows what I'm talking about.

I am the type of person who intends to do the job right the first time, so I am thinking of everything I would do while the engine is out. The car is for the street, and will be driven about 8-10k a year initially. I plan to stick with the twins.

I am considering all types of mods, including performance, reliability and longevity of the new engine, as well as the bling factor. With that in mind, I want to start with a mild streetport. Replace all the little things like fuel pulsation dampner, cleaned and balanced injectors, new plugs, etc. All the vac. lines will be done, and I'd like to use stainless steel braided lines where appropriate, as well as s.s. lines and hoses for the radiator, etc. I want to send my UIM, TB, and alternator off to be polished. I'm also gonna buy a polished y-pipe. I'm sure I'm leaving some things out, but you get the idea.

What I'd like to hear from you guys regarding this is anything you recommend having done or replacing at the same time. Anything else that you would polish, etc. Just reply with a laundry list of what you would have done. Remember, I'm looking for cleanliness, reliability, performance, and some tasteful bling. It's a street-driven car, but I want it to be an ideal underhood setup. If you have pics of what you consider to be a beautiful engine bay, post them. Thanks in advance.

tookwik

pulleys

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Read through this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=167137

He is in the same situation and asked the same questions.

RollnDrty

Thanks

vosko

iTrader: (4)

it really depends how much money do you have to spend and how much time do you have ? nearly everything on my car was replaced while it was in the shop, new engine *EVERYTHING oil pump, housings, new tranny, new SS AN fuel line from the sump in the tank to the engine bay, haltech E6K with new wiring harness, new greddy T78, etc etc. i spent alot of time and money. it was worth it for the final product but you need the time and money to do it

RollnDrty

vosko -

forget money, warranty will prob pay for most of rebuild, but im gonna throw down for the extras (polishing, ss lines, etc). im gonna stick with the twins, they are functioning flawlessly. i would like to have some input from the detail-oriented people, such as your self, which i gathered from simply looking at your engine (like i said its beautiful). i dont want to neglect anything - for example i want new check valves were necessary, braided lines for looks and functionality, etc. But since ive never gone through the rebuild process b4, and dont want to do it more than once, i want to do all i can the first time to get it right. i dont want to look at it down the road and say to myself "damn xxxx would have been a great thing to do at the time, now i gotta rip all sorts of things out to do it now". i'm sure ill replace the O2 sensor, replace certain screws with hex style ones that wont strip, things like that. i jsut dont know as much, and want to do it all at once. things i notice right now drive me nuts, like harnesses with gooey junk all over them, wire insulation that is dried up and peeling back, etc. the little stuff, know what i mean?

jsut lemme know what u think, anything that jumps out or that you would do differently if faced with it again

thanks

vosko

iTrader: (4)

honestly about the only thing i probably should have done was had my engine bay painted but even that is not so bad. the best bet is to pull the engine and see what you need. getting a new engine harness is EXPENSIVE. all those little things add up. SS braided fuel line and fittings are expensive. hmmm i'd have engine bay painted and umm that's about it ? nothing else jumps out at me. my engine bay has been simplified so there is not really anything left to break and repair work is much easier. i guess you could add a couple of extra grounds. while my car was on the lift. i took down all the heatshields in the tranny tunnel and went to town on them with the partswasher.... i'd probably say pull apart the suspension and change whatever bushings are worn out. basically try and fix as much as possible while its as convienient as possible . i'll try to thing of some more stuff

RollnDrty

thanks vosko, your input is much appreciated

dubulup

If money is no object, clean out all those actuators, solenoid and butterfly valves and go non-seq w/BNR stage III's. That will give you reliability (no spiking/no vacuum troubleshooting), cleaner look (no stupid bulky plastic chambers), and lots of low end (10psi by 3k). Ceramic coat your exhaust manifold and turbo housing to lower under hood temps, port the wastegate. Upgrade injectors and pump...hopefully you already have aluminum AST and Radiator. Upgrade the SMIC, get hard intake pipes (and intake if you don't have).

As far as bling your polish story sounds good, in the cockpit, get useful gauges...fuel pressure, oil temp, A/F (if you get a wideband), and boost (boost you should already have). Push button start is kind-of cool.

Big brakes look bling if you have the rims to show them off. Paint and polish you calipers. Put synthetic oils everywhere. Plugs go 9's; upgrade wires...I'll stop writing now, since I didn't really read all the other posts. I like day dreaming...

RollnDrty

dubulup - thats the kind of info i was looking for, thanks a lot...

any one else have input or thoughts dont hesitate...

dubulup

No problem, any specific questions? I day dream about building my FD without the restriction of a budget.

Exhaust I left out, if you want to still (try to) pass emissions, keep the air pump (you'll only have two solenoid valves under the UIM (for the ACV) or three if you keep the FPR SV). Get a downpipe, and cat-back (racing beat dual tip)for sure. If your stock cat isn't clogged keep it, I talked to Cam at Pettit racing and he talked me out of spending $400 at his shop for a HF-Cat since my stock one is fine (stock is $1300 to replace btw). If you don't care about emissions (hell, I don't know if heavily modded FD's can even pass emissions with the cat and AP), lose the cat, AP and all things attached and get a midpipe and some sort of eletronic or manual boost controller. With all the new mods you'll definitely need a power fuel computer, I've read only good things about the Apexi pfc and commander, and might as well spend the extra cash and get the dataloging equipment with it, to moniter EVERYTHING more closely. With everything I've listed (and few things I probably forgot, like pullies and the bling of the R1/R2 front strut tower brace) you should be making 400rwhp or really f_ing close and for a fraction of the cost of other cars making that kind-of power (new mercedes 500SL or something; 493bhp only $115k).

RollnDrty

dubulup - i think ive gathered the info i was looking for thanks for your time!