Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I have the DIY Wideband from Tech Edge in Australia

However, I still have to get the freaking O2 sensor to make it work.



Everywhere I turn, it seems to be out of stock.

Honda Part Number: 36531-P07-003 (95 3door Civic VX)
The Parts Bin, - C5010-75044
NAPA Online - ECHOS791

Are all out of stock and on backorder till who knows when.

At this place, (Auto Parts Giant) they have :
BOSCH 13246 [Oxygen Sensor - OE Type Before Catalyst] $135.92 in stock.

But I don't know if that's the same part or not. To make things even more confusing, they also list 2 sensors for that model car. (95 3door Civic VX)

My questions are:

1) Is that the same sensor that I need for my wideband?

2) If not, where else did you guys with the Widebands kits order them from? Prices?

Thanks

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

That day I was talking about getting mine, I called the local NAPA and they said no problem have it next day..

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Been there, done that. They don't have it in stock, locally or nationally. I had placed my order, and they cancelled it after a week because it's still on Backorder.

1FastT2

iTrader: (1)

My local Honda dealer has one in stock right now. I called like last week I beleive. Only thing that sucks is its $340.

edv

There was a thread in the Canuck forum last week about DIY Wideband.. Never know, you might find a nugget in there...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=120126

voodooracing

i belive you needed the NTK not the bosch...
i think member OSdesigns have both NTK and Bosch wideband. You can try PM him.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

How bout snaggin one used?

Cant be that hard to find. I think they are on 92-98 civic with the LEV tag ont he 1/4 glasses.

I had one in the other day that I had to paint the fender for.. I poped the hood and had a look see and it had one looking JUST exactly like it...

why not snag a good low mielage used one at the local yard, until you can get a new on it?

maxcooper

The Bosch 13246 is the NTK sensor in a different box. See:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbntk.htm

I suggest you place your order right away. I am sure if any of the people who have been shopping for them ordered one right away when they saw this post. I ordered one. I sent paymet to a private seller for one this week, but I don't have the sensor in hand yet so I ordered one from Auto Parts Giant. If I end up with two, I'll sell one on the forum.

Cool car, DirectFreak!

-Max

HAILERS

Go to this site http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oz-diy-wb/ and read the threads on the sensor. The PARTS BIN has them intermittently. I got one by chance reading the above site where a fella mentioned the PARTS BIN has sensors now. Two days later they were out. They will have more, don't know when. I payed 120 bucks at the PARTS BIN. Payed about one hundred forty at the local NAPA about three months ago for my first one. They are out now, though.

maxcooper

Did the first one die or did you just need another one for a different reason? Widebands are traditionally short-lived, but I was hoping the NTK sensor would last a while based on its use in a production car.

-Max

sub-zero

Hey Direct Freak, I can check on Monday at the Honda dealer because I am ordering one also for My DIY. The price was around 220.00 or 240.00 CDN (150.00 US) if You cant find one. It will cost a little extra for shipping but probably cheaper to buy. Let Me know if You still cant find one, and thanks for helping with the manifold.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Thats why they still got them

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Good Idea. I just ordered one from there. I always looked at the text on the tech edge site, but never noticed the picture. That was stupid of me.

Thanks on the car, it's cool now, but when it's finished it's going to be absolutely evil.

I never got the sensor. I just got the wideband, and need my "own" sensor. I've borrowed a sensor and tested it against the dyno wideband and was very impressed with it's resolution and accuracy.

Thanks alot for the info Max and Mike. I just found one barely used from another "shop" friend of mine for $50.

MaxCooper - Thanks for clarifying that it was the same sensor. At least now I will have another backup in the future in case this one dies out.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

What are the exact year range, you can get these from?

How many miles is considered too many miles for a used one?

Scott 89t2

someone local I know just got one from napa this week. however it was ordered in july.....

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

**** that

HAILERS

Try this off the OZ site......... Parts Bin has them. But only one person there seems to know about
it. Call Bill T at extension 320. You must specify Bill "T" because
the other Bill has NO clue, similar to the rest of their sales
staff. You can tell Bill T that Bryan Nelson sent you and he will
know what you are looking for immediately.

Hurry because approximately 200 of 300 are already spoken for.

Bryan

And, maxcooper, in case your remarks were directed at me about the second sensor.....no, I bought the second one for my second car. The third car gets none.

And, the sensor should last over a hundred thousand miles.

jeff48

You probably better check that information again. Everything I read says that, in the original Honda application, the sensor needs to be replaced at between 50-60K. A permanently mounted sensor is likely to fail earlier on an RX7 (10-25K or so) since the VTEC motor and stock Honda placement exposes it to lower EGTs than our cars. Permanent installation of the sensor too close to the Turbo can cause early failure because of the extremely high heat.


Because of the high cost and exposure to a higher rate of failure, most users do not permanently mount their sensors. I, however, am getting ready to do just that. My problem is determining the correct placement for best accuracy. According to Peter (of Techedge) placement is important to accuracy since the sensor heater should cause the sensor cell to be hotter than the surrounding exhaust gasses. To be most accurate the sensor should be placed where the EGT's are just below the sensor cell temps but not be placed too far downstream so as to stress the sensor's heater.

manatecu

iTrader: (6)

And that location would be where? I was thinking just below where the current o2 sensor is located. What do you think?

Chris

rx7tt95

I mounted mine about 15" south of where the stock 02 bung goes on my custom downpipe. I just installed a T78 kit and the downpipe, which is not the one that came with the kit, has the 02 bung right up top, perpendicular with the intake manifold center. I had another 02 bung welded on the downpipe before it was on the car. Big mistake. While it looked like there was clearance, the DIY sensor is much taller than the stock 02. As such, it hit the firewall. I had to "swap" the two and place the wideband up top, about 10" from the turbine discharge. We'll see how it goes. Most are thinking that placing it in the lower region of the downpipe or even the midpipe. Personally, I'd keep it in the downpipe.
Michel

jeff48

I am thinking about having a second bung welded as low as possible on the DP but still being able to remove the sensor and replacing it with a plug (just in case the sensor doesn't last as long as expected. I think Midpipe mounting will have its own problems, most notably, clearances.

setzep

Did he say what temperature the heater was? I would guess that mounting it at the end of the DP or in the MP would be the best.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

This was my understanding as well. On any other car, the DP would be fine. On a Rotary Turbo - Around the middle of the exhaust would be best (Midpipe).

That's where I plan to mount mine, pretty much right where the original "Exhaust Overheat Sensor" used to be mounted.

Badog

Jeff,

On the mid-pipe, try 4-6" behind the flange to the DP, it ends up being even with the side mirrors. Do it on the drivers side. Not enough room on the other side. Parallel to the ground. That way, you can jack up the drivers side, get under the car and remove it when not needed. The temps there are pretty consistent to what Peter suggests. Even on a single turbo application.

jeff48

Badog

Thanks for the info. Makes sense too.