first mods to new car, comments?
10-03-02, 08:48 PM
#1
first mods to new car, comments?
Hello all,
I just purchased a 94 (base model). The engine needs rebuilding. I'm currently discussing this with Tri Point and would like to know what you all think of:
I've already replaced every rubber fuel, water, and oil line, the turbos, gas filter, O2 sensor and thermostat. I sort of went crazy here ... at a Mazda dealer, before I took the time to read threw this forum a bit.
... don't even ask how much it cost ...
When the engine goes in for its rebuild I plan on:
Installing a Fluidine radiator, TriPoint AST and replacing the vacuum lines (for reliability's sake).
Installing a TriPoint downpipe and engine management computer (as yet undecided which).
So ... is there anything else that I should do, given that the engine is coming out of the car. My three goals are to bring this car to about 300HP, keep it as close to stock noise levels as possible, and increase reliability.
I just purchased a 94 (base model). The engine needs rebuilding. I'm currently discussing this with Tri Point and would like to know what you all think of:
I've already replaced every rubber fuel, water, and oil line, the turbos, gas filter, O2 sensor and thermostat. I sort of went crazy here ... at a Mazda dealer, before I took the time to read threw this forum a bit.
... don't even ask how much it cost ...When the engine goes in for its rebuild I plan on:
Installing a Fluidine radiator, TriPoint AST and replacing the vacuum lines (for reliability's sake).
Installing a TriPoint downpipe and engine management computer (as yet undecided which).
So ... is there anything else that I should do, given that the engine is coming out of the car. My three goals are to bring this car to about 300HP, keep it as close to stock noise levels as possible, and increase reliability.
10-03-02, 09:23 PM
#2
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Adding a hi-flo cat and a cat back such as the Racing Beat or M2 dual tip to your downpipe are nice mods, good performance gains and low noise increases. A "cold air" intake is a good reliability and performance mod, increases air flow to the turbos and reduces under hood temps. You didn't mention any gauge upgrades, so if you haven't already, add a boost gauge and a quality temp gauge. Good luck, and keep using this forum, as it is a great tool!
10-03-02, 09:36 PM
#3
Blow up or win
Nice to see someone actually helping a newbie and not flaming them for NOT using the search button................
Ok, now use the search button(j/K)! Up there at your 2 o'clock.
Welcome, and enjoy one of the BEST sports cars ever built. Don't ever hesitate to ask questions, you'll always get someone to help. Ignore the dweebs.
Oh, BTW, If you ever go to a Mazduh dealer again expect to take it in the
without ANY KY, errrrrr, Astrolube, errrrrrrrrrr, synthetic. Whatever.
Ok, now use the search button(j/K)! Up there at your 2 o'clock.
Welcome, and enjoy one of the BEST sports cars ever built. Don't ever hesitate to ask questions, you'll always get someone to help. Ignore the dweebs.
Oh, BTW, If you ever go to a Mazduh dealer again expect to take it in the
without ANY KY, errrrrr, Astrolube, errrrrrrrrrr, synthetic. Whatever.
10-03-02, 11:13 PM
#4
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Dealers like to replace things hoping one of the parts they replaced was the problem. Tri-Point can be very expensive but at least they specialize and know rotary's, unlike the dealer unfortunately. Do some reading and searching in the west section for Tri-Point and so cal race shops.
10-03-02, 11:48 PM
#5
I also just purchased a Rx-7, and plan on doing "reliability" mods. I plan on going with a petit DP, Greddy or JIC exhuast, Greddy airnix intake, Greddy FMIC, Fluidyne radiator, new vac hoses, BOV, 99 spec Y pipe, Apexi PFC and assorted gauges to make sure everything is in check. AST, and the other little odds and ends like spark plugs and oil synth oil. I figure do everything at once while the car is apart to save time and headaches in the long run.
10-03-02, 11:59 PM
#6
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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You want to replace the weakest links first (AST, radiator, Pre-cat). Unless you have a problem with the vacuum lines or are rebuilding the engine, put that off till last. get boost and water temp gauges instead. The Greddy exhaust is too big unless you go with the PE II. Rear bushings and shocks will cost you.
Someone post the Robinette link for them. We should have a newbie forum or a sticky with the links!!!
Someone post the Robinette link for them. We should have a newbie forum or a sticky with the links!!!
10-03-02, 11:59 PM
#7
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scrub, i would be careful about doing more than one 'power adder' at the same time.... my advice would be to do one at a time, that way if you run into a problem, you can get it fixed, and know that it works correctly, then move onto your next mod...
my $.02
p.s. did you catch my switch-up in V8killer's thread?
my $.02
p.s. did you catch my switch-up in V8killer's thread?
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10-04-02, 12:01 AM
#8
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Originally posted by GoRacer
Someone post the Robinette link for them. We should have a newbie forum or a sticky with the links!!!
Someone post the Robinette link for them. We should have a newbie forum or a sticky with the links!!!
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=68640
10-04-02, 12:15 AM
#10
boost deprived
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yeah, it would, but think how much easier it would be to pinpoint the problem (provided the engine is healthy before adding anything) when only adding one thing at a time...
...not saying you can't order everything though and have lots of goodies to stare at...
...not saying you can't order everything though and have lots of goodies to stare at...
Thats why I want to get these parts, so this baby lasts longer.
10-04-02, 10:52 AM
#14
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Originally posted by Vintage Red Touring
A "cold air" intake is a good reliability and performance mod, increases air flow to the turbos and reduces under hood temps
A "cold air" intake is a good reliability and performance mod, increases air flow to the turbos and reduces under hood temps
James, there are other very good shops in SoCal that are cheaper than Tri-Point. How much is that Tri-Point downpipe anyway? Just trying to save you some cash. BTW, how do you know the motor is blown? What are your symptoms/compression ratings?
To get 300 rwhp you should have:
cat-back exhaust
downpipe
intake
hi-flow cat wouldn't hurt
stand-alone ecu/upgraded ecu running 12 psi
better intercooler wouldn't hurt either
BTW, congratulations and welcome to the forum and FD ownership.
10-07-02, 01:45 AM
#16
Thanks people!
I would’ve responded sooner except that I haven’t received any e-mail from the forum … I though that I had my profile set up to e-mail me when a response to my posting came in. I’ll have to check that out.
Here are some quick picks … I just happened to take these for a friend on the east coast earlier today … I’m on the other end of things in California.
So many questions … and so much advice … here’s some response:
“use the search button” … come on … I’ve spent so much time with it already that my wife wants to kill me! It’s because of all of the great advice that I wanted to start a new thread with some fresh messages.
“Boost, temp, a/f gauges, etc.” … I’m considering re-wiring the stock temp gauge v/s adding an external one. I’m also considering a/f gauges and boost. So many choices. The center pod, side pod, side pod + steering wheel pod, etc. I have to admit, I like the car with its stock look but know that I really need the gauges. I’m also considering one of the computers that can display the stats for me. Anyone care to comment on the feasibility of using a computer’s real-time display as a gauge substitute?
Someone mentioned “there are cheaper shops than Tri Point”. I’m near the intersection of the 405 and 101 … Care to throw a few names / websites / phone numbers at me. I’ll look / talk around. Tri Point seems like a great shop but is pricey and can’t touch my motor for three months. Hmm … than again, I’m a big believer in “you get what you pay for” Well … not at the dealer, but cheap isn’t a bargain, reasonable cost for quality it … know what I mean?
OK … here’s what’s up with my engine, though I’m fairly sure that it’s blown. It blows coolant out the overflow tube into the overflow bottle. As soon as the AST has a decent air pocket in it, it blows air. The motor can simply be started from cold, allowed to idle, and this happens on it’s own. I checked everything that you guys suggested (told you I used the search button) and unfortunately was left with the possibility of blown seals. Tri Point’s gas analyzer in my overflow filler neck confirmed this … plenty of hydrocarbons in there … anyone think I missed something? I can elaborate on all I’ve done … I’m sort of skipping the details above.
Thanks all!
I would’ve responded sooner except that I haven’t received any e-mail from the forum … I though that I had my profile set up to e-mail me when a response to my posting came in. I’ll have to check that out.
Here are some quick picks … I just happened to take these for a friend on the east coast earlier today … I’m on the other end of things in California.
So many questions … and so much advice … here’s some response:
“use the search button” … come on … I’ve spent so much time with it already that my wife wants to kill me! It’s because of all of the great advice that I wanted to start a new thread with some fresh messages.
“Boost, temp, a/f gauges, etc.” … I’m considering re-wiring the stock temp gauge v/s adding an external one. I’m also considering a/f gauges and boost. So many choices. The center pod, side pod, side pod + steering wheel pod, etc. I have to admit, I like the car with its stock look but know that I really need the gauges. I’m also considering one of the computers that can display the stats for me. Anyone care to comment on the feasibility of using a computer’s real-time display as a gauge substitute?
Someone mentioned “there are cheaper shops than Tri Point”. I’m near the intersection of the 405 and 101 … Care to throw a few names / websites / phone numbers at me. I’ll look / talk around. Tri Point seems like a great shop but is pricey and can’t touch my motor for three months. Hmm … than again, I’m a big believer in “you get what you pay for” Well … not at the dealer, but cheap isn’t a bargain, reasonable cost for quality it … know what I mean?
OK … here’s what’s up with my engine, though I’m fairly sure that it’s blown. It blows coolant out the overflow tube into the overflow bottle. As soon as the AST has a decent air pocket in it, it blows air. The motor can simply be started from cold, allowed to idle, and this happens on it’s own. I checked everything that you guys suggested (told you I used the search button) and unfortunately was left with the possibility of blown seals. Tri Point’s gas analyzer in my overflow filler neck confirmed this … plenty of hydrocarbons in there … anyone think I missed something? I can elaborate on all I’ve done … I’m sort of skipping the details above.
Thanks all!
10-07-02, 03:01 AM
#17
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Originally posted by James Paventi
“Boost, temp, a/f gauges, etc.” … I’m considering re-wiring the stock temp gauge v/s adding an external one. I’m also considering a/f gauges and boost. So many choices. The center pod, side pod, side pod + steering wheel pod, etc. I have to admit, I like the car with its stock look but know that I really need the gauges. I’m also considering one of the computers that can display the stats for me. Anyone care to comment on the feasibility of using a computer’s real-time display as a gauge substitute?
Someone mentioned “there are cheaper shops than Tri Point”. I’m near the intersection of the 405 and 101 …
“Boost, temp, a/f gauges, etc.” … I’m considering re-wiring the stock temp gauge v/s adding an external one. I’m also considering a/f gauges and boost. So many choices. The center pod, side pod, side pod + steering wheel pod, etc. I have to admit, I like the car with its stock look but know that I really need the gauges. I’m also considering one of the computers that can display the stats for me. Anyone care to comment on the feasibility of using a computer’s real-time display as a gauge substitute?
Someone mentioned “there are cheaper shops than Tri Point”. I’m near the intersection of the 405 and 101 …
www.defi-shop.com
As for being near the 405 and the 101 - that right near the Sherman Oaks Mall? I used to drive up the 405 to the 101 for the hop up to Vandenberg AFB (near Santa Maria) when I was married to my ex wife - ah the memories (I know - has nothing to do with the rex, just kinda cool that we know the same place/pound the same pavement)
Hope the car comes out awesome with the new motor and modifications. Just watch that traffic coming down the Sepulveda pass past Wilshire – don’t want you rear ending someone at 4500 rpm’s
10-07-02, 03:47 AM
#18
Originally posted by James Paventi
OK … here’s what’s up with my engine, though I’m fairly sure that it’s blown. It blows coolant out the overflow tube into the overflow bottle. As soon as the AST has a decent air pocket in it, it blows air. The motor can simply be started from cold, allowed to idle, and this happens on it’s own. I checked everything that you guys suggested (told you I used the search button) and unfortunately was left with the possibility of blown seals. Tri Point’s gas analyzer in my overflow filler neck confirmed this … plenty of hydrocarbons in there … anyone think I missed something? I can elaborate on all I’ve done … I’m sort of skipping the details above.
Thanks all!
OK … here’s what’s up with my engine, though I’m fairly sure that it’s blown. It blows coolant out the overflow tube into the overflow bottle. As soon as the AST has a decent air pocket in it, it blows air. The motor can simply be started from cold, allowed to idle, and this happens on it’s own. I checked everything that you guys suggested (told you I used the search button) and unfortunately was left with the possibility of blown seals. Tri Point’s gas analyzer in my overflow filler neck confirmed this … plenty of hydrocarbons in there … anyone think I missed something? I can elaborate on all I’ve done … I’m sort of skipping the details above.
Thanks all!
-Max
10-07-02, 12:47 PM
#22
linearize the temperature gauge
"I've never seen a stock gauge rewired"
FYI ...
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/technical.html
I'll let everyone know how this works out for me. I'm hoping that the modification will alow me to keep an eye on the engine withough adding an aftermarket gauge. I relize that I won't have exact readings availible, but I can pull data from the computer for that. I.E. this mod should make the gauge move enough to prevent another rebuild. ... Wish me luck.
FYI ...
http://www.geocities.com/sdrx7_club/technical.html
I'll let everyone know how this works out for me. I'm hoping that the modification will alow me to keep an eye on the engine withough adding an aftermarket gauge. I relize that I won't have exact readings availible, but I can pull data from the computer for that. I.E. this mod should make the gauge move enough to prevent another rebuild. ... Wish me luck.
10-07-02, 01:15 PM
#23
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James, don't bother with an A/F gauge. They are worthless as the stock 02 sensor is not accurate at WOT, exactly when you need the reading. Greddy makes an A/F gauge that comes with it's own 02 sensor that is supposedly pretty accurate but I'm not sure about any comparisons to a "real" wideband 02 sensor.
If you are rewiring the stock temp gauge and using computer monitoring for other things, you really only need a boost gauge. A single a-pillar mount or a steering column mount is pretty discrete. If you do not want to permanently alter/damage your interior, you can go with the DIN panel mount or one of the mounts that replace the center channel speaker.
Tripoint is an excellent shop, if pricey. Post for shops in the West Forum. Some of the good ones are Rotary Power, Rotary Reliability and Racing, Mazdatrix (probably as pricey as Tripoint), and a few others.
If you are rewiring the stock temp gauge and using computer monitoring for other things, you really only need a boost gauge. A single a-pillar mount or a steering column mount is pretty discrete. If you do not want to permanently alter/damage your interior, you can go with the DIN panel mount or one of the mounts that replace the center channel speaker.
Tripoint is an excellent shop, if pricey. Post for shops in the West Forum. Some of the good ones are Rotary Power, Rotary Reliability and Racing, Mazdatrix (probably as pricey as Tripoint), and a few others.
10-07-02, 01:44 PM
#25
DIN mount?
Originally posted by rynberg
If you are rewiring the stock temp gauge and using computer monitoring for other things, you really only need a boost gauge. A single a-pillar mount or a steering column mount is pretty discrete. If you do not want to permanently alter/damage your interior, you can go with the DIN panel mount or one of the mounts that replace the center channel speaker.
If you are rewiring the stock temp gauge and using computer monitoring for other things, you really only need a boost gauge. A single a-pillar mount or a steering column mount is pretty discrete. If you do not want to permanently alter/damage your interior, you can go with the DIN panel mount or one of the mounts that replace the center channel speaker.
Oh, and here is one more picture ... sorry to disapoint everyone, but it's just the stock red! This picture shows the real color a bit better. It's the shade, three part Meguire's waxing and watter that make it look so good.