When i got in my car today, and if you have ever broke a diff mount, its the most unconfortble feeling ever in the car. THUNK between shifts, and when i take my foot off the gas.
anyone in the new york area have a good shop to do my work?
if not i think im just going to get it done at T&R in Queens. Im so pissed off. might as well get it fixed asap, im trying to sell the car.

 

i was checking out the cork sport site and i came across the MAZDASPEED Rear Differential Mounts for $179.00.
think these are stronger then OEM?
its amazing how they hold up on american cars with insane low end power, but not a turbo2.

 

yeah, i broke one too. scared the crap out of me. get that fixed because a rear end is a lot of money

 

happened in my old 87, it sucks.

BTW, how much are you asking for the car?

 

get the one from mazdacomp. It's only about sixty dollars and they say that its forty percent stiffer.

 

The reason they go is because with a clutch can multiply the torque being sent to the drivetrain. If you have an automatic tranny the diff mount lasts longer. Mine went, and it was a bitch to swap. Shitty engineering.

 

CLUNK! Mine broke about 2 months after I got the car. T&R welded a piece of metal in there for me and it's been fine for a year now.

 

yeah i think im just going to give Tony a call tomorrow, i cant take driving the car like this.

 

mine started making the noise after i changed my clutch

 

Sure you don't have that bass ackwards? An Auto tranny uses a stator in the torque convertor. That multiplies the torque from the engine depending on the slip angle. At idle, the converter doubles the torque being sent through. With a clutch, all you're doing is spinning a seperate disk using friction. That doesn't multiply the torque.

 

Resto,

the converter cushions the initial jolt of getting on the power (the nature of all automatic transmissions), a clutch just immediately translates that force to the rear end. We have the same issues with GM v8 cars, the auto guys can usually run slicks without shattering rear ends, where the manual guys have trouble.

PaulC

 

One thing that I did that some of you guys may want to consider is to strap your differential down at the "nose" with a chain or some nylon strap(the kind with the ratchet lock. I noticed a dramatic improvement on my car.

 

I smoked my front diff mount 2 weekends ago.

The prob is that, even if you snug the **** out of it, there's still a smidge of play in the mount where it meets the body.

The solution is to use a spacer called a pinion snubber. My 7 mechanic had one made for the 7 that his shop used to race. They used to go through diff mounts all the time. That crap stopped after they threw in the pinion snubber.

I've been after him for the measurements, but he's been having trouble tracking them down (he never bothered to keep a record.) I may be able to snag the one off of that race 7, when I find the time...

I'll post the measurements when I get them, along with any extra 411 about installing it. It's basically just a steel plate with a hole in it.

 

Amur: sounds good man...

 

silkworm, I was mainly responding to the "clutch can multiply the torque being sent to the drivetrain" line. Some of the stuff like that just boggles me. I can't argue the cusioning effect of the auto tranny, but it's just plain wrong to say a clutch multiplies torque

 

agreed.

PaulC

 

the clutch is an instantaneous sp? release of energy to the driveline where as the tc will transfer more torque to the trans but its not instantaneous transfer is more of an extremely fast shove compared to being punched. the fluid in tc will also take out some of the shock from the drive line, where as the clutch only has limited absorption with its springs in the hub and a lot of clutches dont have them for racing cause its lighter but harder on the drive train

 

I was basically trying to say that manual cars are more abusive to drivetrain components. I was under the impression that the clutch grabbing the flywheel caused torque multiplication.... I'll have to do some looking in to that.

 

in the tc i think its called a turbine and a stator well theres fluid in there its like having a fan blowing on another fan if you hold one still (transbrake or using brakes at the line) and you spin the other one with the engine its pushing a lot of fluid past the stator which is not moving so thats where the torque multiplication comes from then theres lock up tc's which completely lockup the stator to the turbine after the car is moving so you dont have a top end loss thats as much

 

now the correct info's flowing from all directions. If you wanted to look into it more, check out www.howstuffworks.com they normally have some pretty good write ups that aren't too technical, but not too watered down either. I just had a Vehicle dynamics class last semester with the book laying around, so you just happened to type something that caught my eye. And to the original poster (BlackFC), good luck with your mount, and sorry the thread got a little sidetracked

 

awww mine has been busted for a few weeks, I have a new mount from mazdamotorsports sitting on my desk, I just need some time to put it in. I can't remember what it's like to roast through second lol...awww

 

When you guys install new rear diff. mounts, do you put that rubber weight back on the mount? I got the Mazda competition piece and saw it was not on there, and I dont really see what it was used for on the stock piece.

 

ahh yes, Torque transfer/(over) time is what kills drivetrain componentary

some guys can make insane power and not break anything, however, give them traction and they break all sorts of things

 

so i was at t&r yesterday for about 4 hours.
mostly just hanging out =)
Tonys FD is sick!!
They welded in my diff with one bar. theyt didnt even replace the original mount cause it would just break again.
They also sealed up my exhaust, and installed my manual boost controller.
its running well =)

 

Hey Blackfc nyc, where is T&R? Can you give me their #, my car needs work. Thanks in advance.