TeAm DrIp!!!

I recently bought a 89 Rx... My idea is 13btt swap... I want a car that handles like a dream. But when i want get into a few drift and also have some *****... Any heads up you guys can give me of what im going to get into would be appriciated

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

way over your head.

stick with the NA untill your ready and you have alot of knowledge on the rotary.

then swap the TII engine in. the 13btt is a unneeded swap.

do alot of searching.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

your in some **** now that you got a rotary son, lol. swaping rotary engines and modding any rx7 is like a rubix cube puzzel. its not fool-proof like almost all the D series and B series mods on the hondas.

mazda.rx7.man

Well if you're going for drifting, get suspension. And for a bit more power, make sure the seals and compression are good, and if so go for intake and exhaust. And like the guy 2 posts above said, get used to the n/a first before you go all out.

calio64

congrats on buying a fc, do what ever you want with your car, if you want a fd swap then so be it, just know you will definetly need a couple grand.

Evil Aviator

To start with, your signature says 1987 RX-7 and your post says 1989, so you may want to fix one or the other because those are two different model series and it will confuse people who are trying to help answer your questions. If by 13BTT you mean the 13B-REW engine, then you are better off just sticking to a 13BT swap and modifying it as appropriate. Even the serious 3Gen RX-7 owners dump the twin turbos on the 13B-REW in favor of a single turbo once they get serious about power. Welcome to the club, and good luck drifting mad quick yo.

AF_H1VLTG3

Congrats on the FC, Its a trap!!!

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Do all maintenance first of course. Pay special attention to cooling system maintenance and use an OEM thermostat, since rotaries are sensitive to overheating. Besides that check out the car with a buyer's guide to make sure there aren't any major problems before you start modding. Even though you already bought it, you don't want to get too deep into something that won't last. If it's in good shape the RX-7 should be pretty reliable.

For a turbo your best option is to swap in the 2nd generation turbo engine. If your car is 1986-1988 (s4), make sure you use a 1986-1988 turbo engine. If it is 1989-1992 (s5), make sure you use a 1989-1992 turbo engine. Other ways to go turbo or twin turbo are possible, but far more difficult. Also be sure to tune extra conservatively, since rotaries are more knock sensitive than piston engines. Bolt on power is basically the same as what you're used to. If you want to put an exhaust on a 1986-1988 (s4) NA, be sure to use the forum search for info on the 5th and 6th ports first.

For grip you mostly do the same as what you do on your Honda. Also search the forums for info on the RX-7's DTSS, so you can decide whether or not you need to eliminate it. For drifting you most likely want to eliminate it (maybe even if it still works), because it reduces feel around the handling limits. Also learn the differences between driving RWD and FWD. RX-7's provide awesome handling, btw.

Racing Beat is a popular source of quality performance parts (www.racingbeat.com). Mazdaspeed is also good (www.mazdaspeed.com). Both are Mazda specific. There are also various other companies around, of course, some with less quality but lower prices.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I don't see suspension upgrades listed...

You can have 1000hp, and your car will still not "handle like a dream".

Evil Aviator

I think most drifters set up their car to handle like a nightmare. If it handled like a dream, it wouldn't go into a drift, and it would actually go around the track quickly.

flipside27

welcome! yeah were in the same boat haha

but about your car, from what ive heard the price of maintnance/ swapng/ upkeep in order to install the 13btt engine, isnt as benificial as it may sound
IF u have the money then go for it, but like you may hear from many of us on this thread ...

Im not sure if itll be worth the hastle

TeAm DrIp!!!

Ok sorry Fellas but its an 1986 Fc Gxl... The Reason for the screw up was because I didn't have the car yet. All I knew was it was a fc and i wanted it... LOL... Ok Back to what i was saying I'm still thinking about going 13btt ( 13b Twin Turbo) But I'm from Jersey and as the title of this thread says I'm very new to Rotaries and I made my choice want to make the car a grip car( complete opposite of drift, daily driven but came be taken to the circuit track and or these twisted road coarse a few of my buddies and myself have found) So if someone can direct me to someone who can work on my motor and/or ideas will be appriciated!!!

TeAm DrIp!!!

**** That Never Mind!!! i did my research and it looks like I'm not going to do that swap... I guess most of you guy was right... So tell me I've seen this site where its a bolt-on twin turbo upgrade... Could this be possible?

phoenix7

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evil Aviator

I think most drifters set up their car to handle like a nightmare. If it handled like a dream, it wouldn't go into a drift, and it would

come on man, you obviously don't know what you're talking about. You are seriously trying to tell me this doesn't handle like a dream???



From Zilvia.net

tires too skinny for the rim, mad dorifto camber and apparently he's running airbags, so it's ok.





BAck to topic: You should do all the suspension mods, reliability mods and then learn to drift in it. Once you're good you can do a TII swap (not really necessary to drift) if you want.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

drive the car, learn all about it, and then sell it and get a T2 if you really want a turbo. I know that's not what you want to hear, but that's the smartest thing to do.

phoenix7

I dunno about "smartest" but it's the easiest. No work, no swapping and more $$.

Either way, turbo should be the last thing on his mind right now.

Hey, what mods got you to 172rwhp??

I have 150rwhp on the NA right now and I'm trying to see if all I need is a GOOD tune.

TeAm DrIp!!!

Why would you say turbo should be the last thing on my mind? I have driven RWD vehicles. Or are you trying to say on focus on an other part of the build?

Killert2

i think u should say na get some knowledege and seach these fourms alot for what your future plans are

phoenix7

well you don't know the condition of the 7. Have you done a tune up yet? Is the tranny in god shape? clutch? rear end? injectors flowing right? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? ECU? 5th and 6th ports? Driveshaft in good shape? How is the suspension? is the wiring brittle in the engine bay? The OMP within specs? any electrical issues? DTSS still intact or is it shot? radiator new/old? oil cooler lines in good shape? pulsation dampener intact? No vaccuum leaks? Coolant leaks? oil leaks?

Once you are 100% sure these won't be issues you can start doing the reliability mods and suspension. THEN you can think about the turbo.

CyberPitz

Listen to this man. Once you run through those things, then your car should be ready for some more action. You REALLY don't want to spend your money on getting a turbo in there, then your tranny dies, along with the suspension and other items. Play it safe and slow. The car will be there when you are done.

Evil Aviator

I think he is saying to focus on the suspension first if a "grip" car is your goal. I tend to agree, except that you should first decide whether your car will be turbo or non-turbo prior to upgrading the suspension because if you want to go turbo then you really should upgrade the driveline with Turbo II parts (costs about $2,500 or so for rebuilt used Turbo II parts). A non-turbo street car can keep the original driveline, and non-turbo RX-7's are more popular in road racing.

Anyway, if you want "grip" for a real track, then you will need real coil-overs (Koni, JRZ, Bilstein), real springs (Eibach ERS), and suspension upgrades like upgraded bushings and mounts, DTSS eliminators, camber/caster plates, and possibly various trick items like adjustable sway bars and links. The flashy Japanese drift stuff is crap. If you have trouble affording the real suspension (will cost about $4,000 or so), then I recommend that you enter your car as-is in 2 autocross events and then join Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development (free) so you can get reduced pricing on RX-7 race parts and stock parts.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...atalogId=10001

Forget the twins. A well-matched ball-bearing single turbo is better. And no, there are no twin kits.

afro88

iTrader: (2)

I dont know if you guy's just dont know or if you dont care but I think your missing the fact that not all drift cars are setup to drift everywhere all the time (which would be stupid). There are cars built primarily for drift that have pretty decent road racing settings. Of course road racing isnt what they were built for but they can still get pretty decent lap times. Also it's not as if camber, caster, toe, ride height, dampening force, spring rate, etc cant be changed out or adjusted for whatever you would like to do with your car. The streched tires and massive amounts of camber are more for looks and most pro level drift cars have no where near as much as that guy. That style of camber is called demon camber in japan and its just for the looks. As far as the stretched(sp wtf) tires I cant remember exactly what but there is an advantage to it in some way shape or form( I cant say if it's for racing or not), something about making the side wall stiffer . You have to remember unless your pushing so much power the tires cant adhere to the road at all or your driving on ice you still have to force the car into a "drift like" state and still have the capabilty of stopping the drift on command. If you think your "grip" rx7 just cant drift because it hugs the road so well I would like to see a set of something other than race tires and a experienced D1 driver get his hands on it. And dont say "I would never let a drifter get his hands on my car". Alot of pro drivers also drive in Super GT in Japan (American Le Mans equivalent (sp) in japan), or at a very minimum in the states drive scca or nasa or hold their own track events. If you can drive better than a GT or American Le Mans driver I dont think you should be wastin your time on the intranetzzz.

Sorry to get off subject. I say worry about complete susp setup. Figure out what you want from the car as a whole. I dont think 4k dollar coilovers are neccessary for what you are planning on doing unless you plan on competing in scca or nasa racing series'. But then going turbo would bump you into an intirely different class. I find that the spec style races (havent had much experience with pro7 beyond the first gen and i'm not sure if thats a spec style class or not, also spec miata looks to be a very fun and competitive series) are much more competitive from what I have seen, therefore (to me) much more fun and rewarding.

bodyrollin'

hahahahaha +1

bodyrollin'

twin turbo setups like you see in the 3rd gen RX7 are sequential, and became popular about the same time that they became outdated...with the technological advances in turbos, the sequential twins are not necessary...the way they work is that a smaller turbo is used to build low amounts of boost relatively quickly so that you dont have lag, and then at a certain RPM it feeds off a larger turbo that makes more boost/power for the higher end. but with the advances in turbos a good mid size single baall bearing unit spools just as fast as the small one and makes more boost than the big one...so see...no need for two, when you can do better with one....do a little digging, and you will see anyone with a big power rotary, or supra, or 300ZX, are all running the single turbo conversion.

TeAm DrIp!!!

Guys thanks you guys definetly gave me somethings to think about...