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13b-rew swap into fc

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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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13b-rew swap into fc

Hey my buddy is planning on putting a 13b-rew into his fc and I was wondering if theres anything we should know? are there any funny detail to worry about or should it be a fairly straight forward swap?
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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It's anything BUT straight-forward.

IBTL!


-Ted
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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how so, any details?
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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It doesnt mount the same which means you have to make or buy custom mounts, it uses completely different wiring/sensors/computer/ignition, it uses completely different a/c and p/s, different oil cooler lines, different exhaust/downpipe, different throttle cable (the t2 one may be able to work), requires an FMIC, custom coolant hoses to the radiator, etc.

I actually wouldnt mind doing such a swap if I could figure out how to make the AC and PS work. I can't have a nice car without that stuff.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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thanks for the info, after reading all that i think ill be able to pull this off. only thing is engine mounts..would fd ones work?
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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No, totally different. Here: http://www.motivefab.com/product_inf...c27cf24d431a0a

You could also drill and tap the REW intermediate iron passenger side area for the FC stock motor mount, and modify/weld onto the FC driver motor mount bracket to fit the 2 holes on the side of the REW intermediate iron. Then you can run the FC oilpan and mounts (I am not sure how the front cover would resolve, the oilpan might need a little welding or extra sealant as a result). This is probably the route I'd go, because even with the above motor mounts, you still are stuck with the shitty FD oil pan that WILL leak oil where the motor mounts bolt on in the rear.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 12:13 AM
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IIRC, They mount in a different location, so you'll have to make your own custom ones.

There are plenty of ways to make your 13b as powerful as an REW without all the hassle, but with the FD set-up, it definitely would be a unique ride once you're finished.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 05:53 AM
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I don't recall if linking to another forum is permitted, but here's a descent write up. And do some searching, it's been talked about hundreds of times.


http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=53258


You are looking at a hectic swap, as previously mentioned. Good luck.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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yeah its definetly a project for the winter...already have to swap the engine on my fd and going single and now my friends fc going with a 13b-rew...will be pretty busy. Thanks for all the info.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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I'd go with the 13b-re instead, easier to mount it in there.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 02:54 PM
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i'd prefer to do the fc swap 13b rew because not all cosmo engines have reinforced dowel pin area where on all 3rd gen engines it comes standard. so just for that reason i would choose the 3rd gen engine over 2 rotor cosmo engine. as the guy listed you can also buy those mounts to mount it in for you or you can have someone with some skills weld 2 half inch steel plates and make you some mounts. i've done it before. i have 2 second gens with 3rd gen or 13b rew in them.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
^ Groundbreaking information here folks...get it while it's hot.

Excuse the **** out of me for trying to be friendly/helpful.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Your post following mine is kinda like reading a book by Stephen Hawking on astrophysics and the expanding universe, and you following it up with the comment that you think space is a big area with lots of stars. Ya don't say?

Not trying to be mean, but...
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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search for posts by zbrown.

If you're going to run a standalone, its **really** not that difficult. Check out z's custom mount. $10 piece of flat bar FTW.

Some of the toughter parts are coolant lines and throttle stuff as mentioned, but nothing impossible, just numerous headaches of things to modify thats all.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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A) It'll bolt right in- search - it's been done
B)
Originally Posted by killahrx7
you can also buy those mounts to mount it in for you or you can have someone with some skills weld 2 half inch steel plates and make you some mounts. i've done it before. i have 2 second gens with 3rd gen or 13b rew in them.
1/2" steel you must be joking
C) Please don't say "someone with skills," EVER again
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 06:40 PM
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bolt right in? I'd love to see that...

Show me
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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would you rather i say 3/8 inch steel then and someone with some skills what's wrong with that? you guys on this forum make things sound so difficult sometimes i wonder what you're thinking about. i'm not saying that i'm the best or anything like that all i'm doing is just giving my opinion. if you have no welding skills then that's your problem, probably you never seen certain things before but if you want me to take pics of the half in steel in my two cars i will glady do so mr know it all.
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Old Dec 7, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Your post following mine is kinda like reading a book by Stephen Hawking on astrophysics and the expanding universe, and you following it up with the comment that you think space is a big area with lots of stars. Ya don't say?

Not trying to be mean, but...
Check out the times we posted. I hadn't read your reply. I guess I just type too slow. Stephen.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rowtareh
You are looking at a hectic swap...
Hectic means "full of incessant or frantic activity". It would only be hectic if you decided to do it in an unrealistic timeframe, just like anything.

It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...

Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
4 minutes apart, and assuming you started the reply before my post went up, that's 5+ minutes. It took you 5 minutes to type 50 words?
I tend to open a half dozen or so threads in different tabs before I type anything, so it might be 15 minutes or more between opening a thread and posting. 4 minutes in not unusual at all. Stephen.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Hectic means "full of incessant or frantic activity". It would only be hectic if you decided to do it in an unrealistic timeframe, just like anything.

It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...

I could not agree more. It seems to be one of the most difficult swaps. That's why not many people do them.

But it's "unique" I guess you could say. Now if you do it 4 years ago or more, I'd give somebody props, but it's been done. So it's not a surprise to see it.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
bolt right in? I'd love to see that...

Show me
Sarcasm friend...... sarcasm.

3/8" Steel for motor mounts is also WAY OVERKILL as in 50-100% OVERKILL unless the design of said mounts is so aweful that you need that kind of bracing but even then...... jeez
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
bolt right in? I'd love to see that...

Show me
Does this rate as sort of bolt in?Well it bolts in to the stock FC mounts .The 13B-REW has the bolt locations cast into the center iron same as the FC for the pax mount.If you do a search,some have drilled and tapped these and used a FC oil pan.The FC Oil pan dosen't fit perfectly on the front cover area but one guy just used a baffle plate and said it was relatively easy to seal up.For the driver side mount it's basically the same as the cosmo RE mount,you can modify a stock mount with a bar that attaches to the bolt that the RE mounts do.The rest of the swap as others mentioned,depends how you want to run the engine as far as complexity goes.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by The Griffin
Does this rate as sort of bolt in?Well it bolts in to the stock FC mounts .The 13B-REW has the bolt locations cast into the center iron same as the FC for the pax mount.If you do a search,some have drilled and tapped these and used a FC oil pan.The FC Oil pan dosen't fit perfectly on the front cover area but one guy just used a baffle plate and said it was relatively easy to seal up.For the driver side mount it's basically the same as the cosmo RE mount,you can modify a stock mount with a bar that attaches to the bolt that the RE mounts do.The rest of the swap as others mentioned,depends how you want to run the engine as far as complexity goes.
I would swear that there is an echo in here...

Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection near the very top of the page
You could also drill and tap the REW intermediate iron passenger side area for the FC stock motor mount, and modify/weld onto the FC driver motor mount bracket to fit the 2 holes on the side of the REW intermediate iron. Then you can run the FC oilpan and mounts (I am not sure how the front cover would resolve, the oilpan might need a little welding or extra sealant as a result). This is probably the route I'd go, because even with the above motor mounts, you still are stuck with the shitty FD oil pan that WILL leak oil where the motor mounts bolt on in the rear.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 04:38 PM
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Sorry missed that, I just quickly skimmed through the thread.Good thing you are such a rotary god and catch everything
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 05:18 PM
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haha, all in good fun. BUt sometimes it does feel like I am talking to the wall on this forum.
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