13b-rew swap into fc
12-06-07, 09:47 PM
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13b-rew swap into fc
Hey my buddy is planning on putting a 13b-rew into his fc and I was wondering if theres anything we should know? are there any funny detail to worry about or should it be a fairly straight forward swap?
12-06-07, 10:26 PM
#4
It doesnt mount the same which means you have to make or buy custom mounts, it uses completely different wiring/sensors/computer/ignition, it uses completely different a/c and p/s, different oil cooler lines, different exhaust/downpipe, different throttle cable (the t2 one may be able to work), requires an FMIC, custom coolant hoses to the radiator, etc.
I actually wouldnt mind doing such a swap if I could figure out how to make the AC and PS work. I can't have a nice car without that stuff.
I actually wouldnt mind doing such a swap if I could figure out how to make the AC and PS work. I can't have a nice car without that stuff.
12-07-07, 12:09 AM
#6
No, totally different. Here: http://www.motivefab.com/product_inf...c27cf24d431a0a
You could also drill and tap the REW intermediate iron passenger side area for the FC stock motor mount, and modify/weld onto the FC driver motor mount bracket to fit the 2 holes on the side of the REW intermediate iron. Then you can run the FC oilpan and mounts (I am not sure how the front cover would resolve, the oilpan might need a little welding or extra sealant as a result). This is probably the route I'd go, because even with the above motor mounts, you still are stuck with the shitty FD oil pan that WILL leak oil where the motor mounts bolt on in the rear.
You could also drill and tap the REW intermediate iron passenger side area for the FC stock motor mount, and modify/weld onto the FC driver motor mount bracket to fit the 2 holes on the side of the REW intermediate iron. Then you can run the FC oilpan and mounts (I am not sure how the front cover would resolve, the oilpan might need a little welding or extra sealant as a result). This is probably the route I'd go, because even with the above motor mounts, you still are stuck with the shitty FD oil pan that WILL leak oil where the motor mounts bolt on in the rear.
12-07-07, 12:13 AM
#7
IIRC, They mount in a different location, so you'll have to make your own custom ones.
There are plenty of ways to make your 13b as powerful as an REW without all the hassle, but with the FD set-up, it definitely would be a unique ride once you're finished.
There are plenty of ways to make your 13b as powerful as an REW without all the hassle, but with the FD set-up, it definitely would be a unique ride once you're finished.
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12-07-07, 05:53 AM
#8
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I don't recall if linking to another forum is permitted, but here's a descent write up. And do some searching, it's been talked about hundreds of times.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=53258
You are looking at a hectic swap, as previously mentioned. Good luck.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=53258
You are looking at a hectic swap, as previously mentioned. Good luck.
12-07-07, 08:58 AM
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yeah its definetly a project for the winter...already have to swap the engine on my fd and going single and now my friends fc going with a 13b-rew...will be pretty busy. Thanks for all the info.
12-07-07, 02:54 PM
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i'd prefer to do the fc swap 13b rew because not all cosmo engines have reinforced dowel pin area where on all 3rd gen engines it comes standard. so just for that reason i would choose the 3rd gen engine over 2 rotor cosmo engine. as the guy listed you can also buy those mounts to mount it in for you or you can have someone with some skills weld 2 half inch steel plates and make you some mounts. i've done it before. i have 2 second gens with 3rd gen or 13b rew in them.
12-07-07, 03:38 PM
#13
Your post following mine is kinda like reading a book by Stephen Hawking on astrophysics and the expanding universe, and you following it up with the comment that you think space is a big area with lots of stars. Ya don't say? 
Not trying to be mean, but...
Not trying to be mean, but...
12-07-07, 04:06 PM
#14
search for posts by zbrown.
If you're going to run a standalone, its **really** not that difficult. Check out z's custom mount. $10 piece of flat bar FTW.
Some of the toughter parts are coolant lines and throttle stuff as mentioned, but nothing impossible, just numerous headaches of things to modify thats all.
If you're going to run a standalone, its **really** not that difficult. Check out z's custom mount. $10 piece of flat bar FTW.
Some of the toughter parts are coolant lines and throttle stuff as mentioned, but nothing impossible, just numerous headaches of things to modify thats all.
12-07-07, 06:35 PM
#15
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
A) It'll bolt right in- search - it's been done
B)
1/2" steel 
you must be joking
C) Please don't say "someone with skills," EVER again
B)
you must be jokingC) Please don't say "someone with skills," EVER again
12-07-07, 09:33 PM
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would you rather i say 3/8 inch steel then and someone with some skills what's wrong with that? you guys on this forum make things sound so difficult sometimes i wonder what you're thinking about. i'm not saying that i'm the best or anything like that all i'm doing is just giving my opinion. if you have no welding skills then that's your problem, probably you never seen certain things before but if you want me to take pics of the half in steel in my two cars i will glady do so mr know it all.
12-08-07, 01:48 AM
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Hectic means "full of incessant or frantic activity". It would only be hectic if you decided to do it in an unrealistic timeframe, just like anything.
It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...
I tend to open a half dozen or so threads in different tabs before I type anything, so it might be 15 minutes or more between opening a thread and posting. 4 minutes in not unusual at all. Stephen. 
It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...
12-08-07, 05:06 AM
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Hectic means "full of incessant or frantic activity". It would only be hectic if you decided to do it in an unrealistic timeframe, just like anything.
It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...
It's a complicated swap, because there are many things that need to be done to make it worth. Some would say it's more complex than the gains are worth...
I could not agree more. It seems to be one of the most difficult swaps. That's why not many people do them.
But it's "unique" I guess you could say. Now if you do it 4 years ago or more, I'd give somebody props, but it's been done. So it's not a surprise to see it.
12-08-07, 02:59 PM
#21
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
12-08-07, 04:27 PM
#22
Does this rate as sort of bolt in?Well it bolts in to the stock FC mounts .The 13B-REW has the bolt locations cast into the center iron same as the FC for the pax mount.If you do a search,some have drilled and tapped these and used a FC oil pan.The FC Oil pan dosen't fit perfectly on the front cover area but one guy just used a baffle plate and said it was relatively easy to seal up.For the driver side mount it's basically the same as the cosmo RE mount,you can modify a stock mount with a bar that attaches to the bolt that the RE mounts do.The rest of the swap as others mentioned,depends how you want to run the engine as far as complexity goes.
12-08-07, 04:30 PM
#23
Does this rate as sort of bolt in?Well it bolts in to the stock FC mounts .The 13B-REW has the bolt locations cast into the center iron same as the FC for the pax mount.If you do a search,some have drilled and tapped these and used a FC oil pan.The FC Oil pan dosen't fit perfectly on the front cover area but one guy just used a baffle plate and said it was relatively easy to seal up.For the driver side mount it's basically the same as the cosmo RE mount,you can modify a stock mount with a bar that attaches to the bolt that the RE mounts do.The rest of the swap as others mentioned,depends how you want to run the engine as far as complexity goes.
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection near the very top of the page
You could also drill and tap the REW intermediate iron passenger side area for the FC stock motor mount, and modify/weld onto the FC driver motor mount bracket to fit the 2 holes on the side of the REW intermediate iron. Then you can run the FC oilpan and mounts (I am not sure how the front cover would resolve, the oilpan might need a little welding or extra sealant as a result). This is probably the route I'd go, because even with the above motor mounts, you still are stuck with the shitty FD oil pan that WILL leak oil where the motor mounts bolt on in the rear.
