Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

Finally back after the month from hell at the squadron. Between coordinating Katrina and Rita Relief aircrews/helos, and getting helos on the carriers to sortie in preemption of Orphelia, I'll be VERY happy to see this last fiscal year in my rear view mirror. Now back to some rotary geeking...


As Crispy mentioned, all of the original design idea orginated from the previous owner, Mark Valskis (of Brembo NA).

Asleep (Tony): Yes, the car came from the west coast. It needed a little more than just the hoses built. More like EVERY (fuel, coolant, lube, and brake) hose, wire/harness/CB, duct, intake pipe, map, et. Oh yeah, and the shortblock and tranny too.

Mark's design and C&R's fabrication of the radiator were complete when I received the car. When I first got the car, I contacted and discussed both the radiator and the DC EWP with the manufactures to make sure I understood the nuances of these "one- offs." My comments in this thread reflect these insights.

Mark mentioned FOUR other interested buyers when the car first came up for sale. I was fortunate enough to fend off the horde of other "suitors" when the car was on the market. No doubt, our friendship probabley help my standings (along with readily available "Franklins").

EFINI_RX-7_RZ: I run the usual teflon-encapsulated inner and Mazda outer coolant o-rings. The engine is a (RB template +) street port, with Ianetti 3mm one-piece ceramic seals. Nothing radical internally, just the usual litany of minor upgrades. I think I may get a little more radical on the porting next time I have the engine apart (knocking on wood).

mp5

iTrader: (3)

Pictures not working now is there a link?

Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

Sorry about that... Yahoo inadvertantly dropped the domain registrant (Network Solution) so I switched web hosts (to "A+").

alberto_mg

Carlos,

I was looking (actually drooling is more like it...) at your setup again and was wondering if you thought a similar setup might work on a car running a regular waterpump, A/C and power steering?

It seems like it might be a bit tight to fit the A/C condenser and the lines would definitely be in the way. Such a cool setup but seems like it might be hard to duplicate with A/C and PS...

Thanks. Hope to see it in person some day on track.

13Joe

i once had a picture of ur engine as my wallpaper, and will turn to it everytime i needed inspiration as to what my FD's gonna turn out, someday... haha... just out of curiousity, what did you do with your coolant overflow tank (the tank on the left of the car). Im thinkin of relocating that, as i dont like the way it is, currently. TIA.

Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

Alberto:
Please forgive the late response, but my Internet access has been very scarce since I began the training for my upcoming Iraq mobilization. Needless to say, these 1940's Fort Bragg barracks don't have internet access.

Thanks for the kind words! I do agree that my setup plus the usual accessories would be a tight fit at best. However, anything is possible if you spend enough time and money.

I suspect I'll be trying to make-up for my year in "paradise" with a heavy track year in 2007. Hopefully we'll get to play on-track then!

13Joe:
That's funny, my "fuel-to-noise" convertor is also my screensaver!

The fill tank acts as the air seperator. You can see it under the engine torque brace:




Autronic 500R install:

I recently installed an Autronic 500R CDI and a set of MM coils. I'll take pictures of the complete setup next time I'm home on Leave, but I've included a picture of the coils setup below for now. Unfortunately, I do not expect to have a complete evaluation until I'm able to tune it some time after my return from mobilization next year.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Are you using -16 or -20 AN for your coolant lines?
Also where are all the coolant sensors mounted?

Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

The coolant lines betwen the radiator and the engine are -20.

Both the E6K and HKS gauge coolant sensors are TIG into the coolant inlet of the radiator. You can see them well in this picture:

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Whats with the Guinness can?

Carlos I sent you a PM yesterday.

Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

The Guinness is one of two catch cans. It collects crankcase overflow, and the Boddingtons can back by the wiper motor is the coolant overflow catcher.

BTW, PM replied earlier this PM.

dubulup

question...if your E6K temp gauge is on the bottom of the radiator...what tells your pump to turn on? I saw you have the controller, I assume the haltech turns that on. But do you have to wait until the coolant in the block heats the coolant in the -20AN line and then to the bottom of the radiator, which has wonderful ducting!! and probably keeps the coolant down there nice and cool...

I'm working on an electric WP set-up and I'm confused how you trigger your pump and monitor the coolant in the engine.

I have no doubts that your system will keep the engine at proper temps...but when to trigger?

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I'm working on the same thing now, and need to mount all the sensors someplace and I've heard some say to put on the cool side, others on the hot side. I think the stock sensors are mounted on the cool side.

Carlos, where did you get your -20 AN fittings, I'm having problems finding a good selection of that size of fittings. I might just try the -16 and have a go at it.

Is your radiator single, double or triple pass?
Also, how is the EWP and controler working out for you? How many miles on this setup, anything you would change, etc...
Thanks!

Carlos Iglesias

iTrader: (6)

Dubulup:

My bad. You're correct in that there is one more water temp sensor. The sensor/thermocouple for the DC Electic Water Pump (EWP) Controller is install into a bung threaded into the stock H2O gauge sensor postion (in the rear end housing.) Obviously, the controller modulates the EWP to maintain the rheostat set water temp. The only aspect of the coolant system that the Haltech controls is the radiator fan.

The EWP Controller is set to a 185F water temp baseline. The fan is set to turn on at 195F and turn off at 175F.

As previously report in this thread, I'm VERY satisfied with the car's water and oil temp control. I'd be hard press to isolate what aspect(s) of the coolant and/or oil system has had the most positive impact.

Glass Man:

The radiator is single pass. I have about 3K on the setup, including two track days (see page 4 of this thread) and one autocross, all in warm weather So far the system has been flawless.

As for the AN fittings, Mark Valski supplied them with the car, so really can help you with this one... sorry.

dubulup

Nice, that is slick! So is the bung that threads into the stock location a standard part??

If so, please share P/N

any pictures of what you did, if this is custom??

mark57

Try this: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/