No engine codes? WTF?!
11-08-04, 06:58 PM
#1
damn car.
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No engine codes? WTF?!
Ok, so I made another post at [link]https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=366308[/link] and so I decided to pull the engine codes to check out specifically what the eff my car is doing. So, I jumpered that little green connector on the driver's side and grounded the other end of the wire to the negative battery terminal, turned my key to "on" and nothing happens. WTF? My car is a '90 n/a btw.
11-08-04, 07:51 PM
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a 1990 (an S5) has narrow and full range; the full range i don't believe can be set (it says in the FSM its automatic i think; i dont have my printout near me). the screw i think simply adjusts the narrow side.
if you want to test your TPS, do so according to the FSM. it tells you its tolerances. test narrow and full range; testing the ohms is simple. make sure its unhooked just as the FSM says.
if you want to test your TPS, do so according to the FSM. it tells you its tolerances. test narrow and full range; testing the ohms is simple. make sure its unhooked just as the FSM says.
Last edited by casio; 11-08-04 at 07:54 PM.
11-08-04, 11:09 PM
#3
damn car.
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Ok well I have a couple problems then:
1. I don't have a FSM
2. That still doesn't solve my check engine light problem
3. My car is still pissin me off
What the damn is up?!
1. I don't have a FSM
2. That still doesn't solve my check engine light problem
3. My car is still pissin me off
What the damn is up?!
11-08-04, 11:16 PM
#4
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1. the FSM is online in numerous places. i used to use http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/index.htm, but the site is down. Sureshot has it somewhere. search "FSM" or something of the like.
2. i don't know why your CEL works, then doesnt give you codes. i dont want to treat you like a kid, but i dont know how much you know. are you checking codes properly? just in case: http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
also, there may be a way to do it from the ecu. the ecu "sends" grounds instead of volts. i am yet to test codes this way, just as i never got an answer about it from others. again, i'm not sure how familiar you are with the ecu and testing.
3. sorry?
2. i don't know why your CEL works, then doesnt give you codes. i dont want to treat you like a kid, but i dont know how much you know. are you checking codes properly? just in case: http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
also, there may be a way to do it from the ecu. the ecu "sends" grounds instead of volts. i am yet to test codes this way, just as i never got an answer about it from others. again, i'm not sure how familiar you are with the ecu and testing.
3. sorry?
11-08-04, 11:24 PM
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rereading, you never said what was wrong with your first TPS. the TPS is a sensor that is thrown around a lot and people seem to either point blame or ask about it. i dont know how this started, but as i've said before, i'd hate to go pointing fingers at such an expensive sensor unless i know for sure its a problem.
also, you got your light after installing this free TPS. like i said earlier, do the ohm test. if you dont find the FSM online (links have been posted in threads and it may also be in the FAQ at the top), i'll see if i have the numbers in my car. i was doing tests myself. seriously, the ohm test takes 5-10 minutes. thats unhooking the sensor, testing closed on narrow and full range, testing full open on narrow and full, and testing to see how linear the ohm "transfer" is moving the TPS sensors in and out _slowly_. i found a dip around high 3K ohm. its very hard to spot since the ohms move fast. i had to go extremely slow. nonetheless, its easy to test.
also, you got your light after installing this free TPS. like i said earlier, do the ohm test. if you dont find the FSM online (links have been posted in threads and it may also be in the FAQ at the top), i'll see if i have the numbers in my car. i was doing tests myself. seriously, the ohm test takes 5-10 minutes. thats unhooking the sensor, testing closed on narrow and full range, testing full open on narrow and full, and testing to see how linear the ohm "transfer" is moving the TPS sensors in and out _slowly_. i found a dip around high 3K ohm. its very hard to spot since the ohms move fast. i had to go extremely slow. nonetheless, its easy to test.
11-09-04, 12:14 AM
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okay, i'm writing these, so you better freakin test your TPS.
Narrow Range (A - B): Closed: 0.8-1.2 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 4.0-6.0 Kohms
Full Range (E - D): Closed: 0.6-0.9 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 3.4-5.1 Kohms
1. Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
looking at the pins, the order is:
E - C - A
F - D - B
2. Measure resistance of the throttle sensors.
Narrow Range (A - B): Closed: 0.8-1.2 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 4.0-6.0 Kohms
Full Range (E - D): Closed: 0.6-0.9 Kohms --- Full Throttle: 3.4-5.1 Kohms
1. Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
looking at the pins, the order is:
E - C - A
F - D - B
2. Measure resistance of the throttle sensors.
11-09-04, 03:06 AM
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damn car.
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Hey thanks casio for all the info. I actually didn't get to test this today at all, but I will for sure tomorrow when I tear into my car and replace all the vacuum hoses. I'm obviously no expert by any means, but I know more than the average bear. Always looking to learn though, so this is all just a learning experience. Again thanks. Also, I don't know if I'm a dumbass for asking this, if I am go easy on me but when testing the TPS with the multimeter, does it matter which pins I put the multimeter needles into(et. al. when testing narrow range is "A" positive and "B" negative, etc..)? It might be obvious when looking at it, but it's like 1am and I don't have the thing in front of me. Thanks again for all your trouble and sorry if I'm a 'tard.
Gabe
Gabe
Last edited by boba_buster57; 11-09-04 at 03:10 AM.
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11-09-04, 01:52 PM
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honestly, i wasnt sure myself. it was the first time i'd ever tested ohms. since i read left to right (english), i think of positive first and negative second. i used RED+ on A and BLACK- on B. RED+ on E and BLACK- on D.
i never got curious and switched, so i can't say. as far as testing ohms, its all new to me. i cant think of why it wouldnt work, though. you can switch polarities on volt testing and it just says negative volts instead.
just be sure to disconnect the TPS and test the prongs on the sensor's side. ohm testing should never be exposed to power (i believe this blows the meter; no experience, just have heard).
good luck with it all.
i never got curious and switched, so i can't say. as far as testing ohms, its all new to me. i cant think of why it wouldnt work, though. you can switch polarities on volt testing and it just says negative volts instead.
just be sure to disconnect the TPS and test the prongs on the sensor's side. ohm testing should never be exposed to power (i believe this blows the meter; no experience, just have heard).
good luck with it all.
11-09-04, 02:04 PM
#9
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The best write-up on how to pull the codes:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
The TPS Info clipped from my copy of the FSM.
(The full set is linked in my sig below)
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html
The TPS Info clipped from my copy of the FSM.
(The full set is linked in my sig below)
11-09-04, 02:24 PM
#10
Originally Posted by casio
honestly, i wasnt sure myself. it was the first time i'd ever tested ohms. since i read left to right (english), i think of positive first and negative second. i used RED+ on A and BLACK- on B. RED+ on E and BLACK- on D.
i never got curious and switched, so i can't say. as far as testing ohms, its all new to me. i cant think of why it wouldnt work, though. you can switch polarities on volt testing and it just says negative volts instead.
just be sure to disconnect the TPS and test the prongs on the sensor's side. ohm testing should never be exposed to power (i believe this blows the meter; no experience, just have heard).
good luck with it all.
i never got curious and switched, so i can't say. as far as testing ohms, its all new to me. i cant think of why it wouldnt work, though. you can switch polarities on volt testing and it just says negative volts instead.
just be sure to disconnect the TPS and test the prongs on the sensor's side. ohm testing should never be exposed to power (i believe this blows the meter; no experience, just have heard).
good luck with it all.
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