These tips may be common sense for most of the die hard guys here... but they were small details that caused me to question some advice in other threads... and should help in addition to other help threads.

Spark Plug Change
Without a doubt, if you are changing just plugs... do this from under the car!! Much - much easier!!!! If you want to check for spark, simply unplug a wire and let it sway by the block about 1 inch away. Get somebody to crank and it will arc from the plug to the block.

Fuel Filter Change
Don't change the brackets... leave them on the car. Only swap in the filter itself. Also, use some vice-grips with duct tape wrapped around the teeth to pinch off the hoses - guess what - no fuel spillage. I also drained the tank before doing all of this to minimize the fuel in the system. Taking the gas cap relieves the pressure.

Flooding
Unplug the EGI Fuse by the battery (not the main EGI relay) to turn spark off.
Gas pedal to the floor to shut off gas flow.
Take 2 lower plugs out and crank without gas and spark and white mist should come out. Let sit for awhile to let gas vapourize out plug holes (may not be req'd).

Use all of this info in addition to help on here:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/how-to.html

And other searches on this forum.

 

good info
but draining all the fuel wouldnt really help much would it?
since the fuel are already in the fuel lines.
im guessing it helps out with the mess if the pinching isnt successful

 

Isn't it easier to do the spark plugs for the rear rotor? (the rotor closest to the firewall) from above. You shouldn't need to remove the intake elbow to do it.

As for the fuel filter, isnt' it better to take off the whole bracket. The screw that holds the filter to the bracket is impossible to get to without removing the whole bracket from the car.

Just some of my observations, not trying to cause trouble here

 

[QUOTE=POS7]

As for the fuel filter, isnt' it better to take off the whole bracket. The screw that holds the filter to the bracket is impossible to get to without removing the whole bracket from the carQUOTE]

Yah, sorry ... if you get at the one bracket from behind the rear crossmember (2 bolts) that is the best. So you have the ring around the filter bracket out only.

 

Just curious but you mention that the fuse should be removed and the website says the relay. I was wondering what happens when you mistakenly remove the relay VS the fuse, and tried to crank the car when the plugs have been removed?

 

If you remove the main relay and crank... caputsky... it trips the ECU . You then have to disconnect the battery to reset the ecu. Thats what happened to me anyways.

 

For a really quick solution to flooding, take off the nipple (or hose) on the UIM where you would normally plug in the line to a boost guage. Get a can of WD-40 and stick the red straw deep into the hole and spray for a few seconds. Wait for a minute, replace the nipple or hose, and then crank your engine. I was skeptical at first, but it worked well for me.

 

I typically change the plugs from the top. It also helps that I've got long arms (I'm 6'6") and thin fingers, I think . I just pull the throttle body elbow and go to work. Typically takes me around 15 minutes, start to finish. Changing from the bottom also means more tools to drag out and setup time.

BTW, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS put anti-sieze on the spark plug threads!!! Just a little dab is all you need. Makes the plugs a SNAP to remove next time. I've pulled plugs before that required a 3" breaker bar with me fighting the ENTIRE way out with the plug - thankfully the threads in the rotor housing weren't damaged!

That's a good one on the WD-40 trick. You can use both nipples to get the WD-40 to both rotors - each one goes to a different rotor.

Oh, on the fuel filter - I did the writeup that's on Scuderia Ciriani AGES ago when I did a friend's FD. The trick is to not only pull the fuel pump relay and let the car stall out, but also remove the gas cap. The pressure in the tank will keep pushing fuel out of the system. You will always get some fuel on you, as the filter itself holds quite a bit. It also helps to have an assortment of small pliers and a set of hose pliers. Hose pliers look like needle nose, but the end has a "loop" in it. You can put it around a hose, grip, and wiggle the hose off. Those things are SUPER useful.

Dale

 

Hose pliers rock. Mechanix gloves are similarly awesome.

-s-

 

I've always replaced spark plugs from the top without removing anything. Must be the double jointed wrists.

 

Yeah only put a little bit of anti-sieze, too much and it could cause problems with ground the spark plugs.

 

Yah Im sure this works - as it is plastered all over this board. It was going to be my last option... I dont like throwing just anything into my engine... especially these sensitive rotaries with endless stories of boom-booms. Good to have as a last resort though!