Flybye

I know some of you have em

alwan16

http://www.maxcooper.com has some i think

BrianK

yup.. here's the actual link: http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/parts_i...lers/index.htm

Flybye

Yeah I went through his site already. Thanks guys.
I already know how to make this kit for about 1/2 the price Crooked is selling it for

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Using the same core, same aeroquip fittings, and SS braided lines? 1/2 price? You definitely can do it using the B&M core, rubber oil lines and brass fittings for 1/3 of the price. But using the same aeroquip/mocal core, aeroquip fittings, and SS braided lines, there is really no way. I am very interested in how you are going to do it. I am not posting this to doubt you or anything negative. I already made one myself using the Earl's fitting, Earl's core and Earl's fittings lines and it costs pretty much the same as the CWC one. It costs a little more since I use the 34 row oil cooler and I use different kinds of fittings. I am just interested in your project. If you can do it for 1/2 of the price, I must have done something wrong with mine. hmmm...

Chuck

A-Spec

I got my Mocal 25 row oil cooler for $150 only. 2 of them would be 300 and Earl's fittings/lines would cost about 250 I believe....maybe he can get better price so yeah I think it's do-able. actually the cwc has some nice ducts though.....

just becareful with the fitting on the front cover plate...I cracked it and it is a b!tch to change! subframe, oil pan, water pump all have to come off to get to it....sigh~

David

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

BTW. DO NOT put it on without a thermostat. The oil cooler will burst. My friend did not listen to me and put two 34 row Earl's cooler without thermostat and the oil cooler bursted in no time. He was lucky he wasnt driving on the freeway, otherwise oil will be all over his tires and he would be dead by now. So $550 plus $80 for thermostat and also custom brackets. If you add a thermostat, you will need 4 more fittings which will cost around $80-100. So pretty much you need to add another $180-200 bucks on top of your setup and the total will be very close to what CWC is selling.

Chuck

Flybye

Well, the CWC kit uses a 19row cooler. When you look at its size directly with a stock oil cooler, they are almost the same height and length, and a little thicker. The Mocal cooler also has a LOT more fins than the stock oil cooler. I was able to price out EACH Mocal cooler at $130 each. I DID find these Swedish oil coolers which seems to look EXACTLY like the Mocal coolers at $100, but I have yet confirmed if it IS the same or not.

I'm gonna need about 8 fittings or so and the 2 adapters. A billion shops sell fittings. It's just a matter of finding someone with a good price, but I HAVE seen them range anywhere between $10-$20.

I haven't priced out the steel braided hoses, but I think I can get 19 feet for about $170 from what a friend told me. I know I can always get it by the foot, and I'm sure someone locally has em.

The thermostat (which I have been debating on until now. Thanks Chuck :p) is about $100.

Custom plates to mount the oil coolers? Not sure yet, but I know Home Depot Racing is waiting for me

So far the bill seems to fall somewhere between $400-$500. Still a LOT cheaper than buying the entire kit premade. Hey, I'm not afraid of making my own hoses. Oh, and the ducts? Well what ABOUT the ducts? They don't need to look pretty since they will be buried in the bumper. I'm gonna play around a bit with either fiberglass or carbon fiber sheets and try to see what I can form.

I still have yet to decide to do this or not, but there is a good possibility that I will since my stock oil cooler is pretty much waste.

Flybye

No, the thermostat is factory set and is not adjustable. At least the one I'm looking at from Mocal isn't

A-Spec

what's the function of the thermostat?? isen't it just there to open up when it reaches a certain temperature? why would it prevent the cooler from bursting??

tks,
David

Flybye

Mocal recommends it to allow the oil within the engine to quickly reach operating temperature. CWC sells it with their kits. I also read somewhere the cold oil may glob up in the oil cooler, but that doesn't make any sense. If you let the car sit too long, don't tell me you are supposed to drain each damn oil cooler.

I've heard people say it doesn't matter and I've heard some people say it does. Mocal recommends it, so I will leave it at that. Personally, this is the first time I have ever heard of an oil Thermostat, and I have HEARD the R1s have it, but I never confirmed this and there is noting in the manual that talks about it.

A-Spec

yeah I think the themostat are all built into the stock oil coolers. My friend thinks that since the rotary gets hot pretty fast and stays that way anyways so the themostat will be open most of the time anyways so he didn't put one on....there must be some other function to the themostat....

David

Flybye

So has HE had any odd issues?

Freaky Monkey007

Wut do u guys think of the brake kits they have or the intercooler?? The brakes seem to be WAY overpriced.. but i may be thinking of something else..But the bembo brakes or even the
f40 brakes look preety nice.. 2 bad it wouldnt work wit 17"s

A-Spec

well his car is almost a race only car.....so far he only drives to the drag strip which is like 100 miles and he went about 4 times...so far so good. He will be putting on a quieter exhaust and daily drive it so we will find out if it will hold up.

I'm actually running without themostat now...hehe but I cracked the housing, so won't be getting the car back till next week. I'll update you on how it goes without the themostat.

David

2-Rotor

The purpose of the oil cooler thermostat is to make sure the oil inside the motor can heat up, and then the thermostat will open to allow the cooler oil into the motor (heat exchange). Mazda says that by having a oil cooling system with thermostats in place they can decrease the amount of fuel consumption on cold start ups. Remember people our cars are oil injected and the thermostats insure that overcooling does not occur. The answer to why do you need thermostats is because as you know, the rotors of the rotary engine are internally cooled by lubricant, if there wasnt anything in place to regulate different pressures the system would break open and leak.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

The oil cooler will burst without a thermostat is because rotary engine has a much higher oil pressure than regular piston cars. When the oil is cold, it's much thicker than when it's hot and the flow of the oil is not as good and it will build up the oil pressure even more. If you want to take the risk of not having a thermostat and saving some money, it's your choice. I saw it happened and that's my experience. BTW, oil needs to get to its operating temp for better lubrication. Thermostat maintains the oil at a constant temp. I don't want to hear one of you guys running a oil cooler without thermostat and then the oil cooler bursts and dumps all the oil to your front tires so you spin out and crash the car. But I am not the one who pays for your upgrade. So take your risk if you want.

Chuck

Flybye

The oil pressure sounds logical, but these oil coolers are designed to withstand pressures of around 170lbs. I'm not taking any chances, though.

I emailed bakerprecision to see what they have to say abuot the Gertrab oil coolers. Those are the ones that look exactly like the mocal oil coolers, but are black.

A-Spec

ahh I see, that oil viscosity at different temps sounds logical...I think to be safe I will install one

tks for the advice!

David

Flybye

Ok, something ELSE has been thrown into the pool of consideration.

Socketless Fittings and a special reinforced rubber hose:
http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp1.htm

It withstands pressures up to 250psi, which our oil system will NEVER see, and also withstands heat up to about 350degrees. The best thing about it is the hoses are about 1/3 the price of SB hoses and the fittings are also about $10 cheaper. I Talked to these guys and I told them my application (occasional street & track), and they told me these hoses would be just fine for me.

I can understand using SB hoses under the car to protect them from road debris, but these hoses will be well protected from several plastic panels.

What do you guys think about these hoses?

65Imp

iTrader: (8)

I haven't looked too closely at the oil coolers on my r-1 but I know some dumbass body place sprayed black paint all over them, so I foresee an upgrade in the future... why not re-use all the stock hardware/theromostats? Just get the upgraded cooler, and then plug it in.

hapa

Flybye, unless your talking a price difference of $100 or more, I wouldn't even consider it. For a little bit of money, I'd error on the side of caution, after all if one of those hoses fail, your in a wolrd of hurt. By the way I've seen the parts for the entire crooked willow kit, and you can make the same kit for about $300 less just buying parts at summit, and making your own brackets. But then you don't get the cool carbon fiber ducts. I'm going to change my front end eventually, so the ducts don't do me any good anyways. just my 2 cents.

eric

Flybye

It will actually be closer to around $150 difference.

But you see, WHAT is there to burst a line?? These hoses are not open to the pavement, and nothing can really get to them. Don't forget, our STOCK lines are also of a rubber compound.

A-Spec

you can't reuse it because the stock thermostat is built into the oil cooler...

I personally like the look of SB, I'm a ricer ...although black rubber hoses look stock and won't stand out that much.

David