whats a good kind of oil to put in ur rx7
i have a 88 rx7 TII whats a good kinda oil to put 10w30? is it ok to put sinthetic oil or am i better off without it. what will get my longer engine life too
Jealous of 86-88 mechanical MOP.
Dump the OMP, run synthetic and premix.
Actually any oil that is changed frequently(2-3k miles) and topped off regularly(every fillup) is good enough. Just match the weather(read the owners or service manual) to your oil weight.
Concerning synthetic, mostly hearsay. Will guinea pig my car next year after winter storage's hibernation.
Dump the OMP, run synthetic and premix.
Actually any oil that is changed frequently(2-3k miles) and topped off regularly(every fillup) is good enough. Just match the weather(read the owners or service manual) to your oil weight.
Concerning synthetic, mostly hearsay. Will guinea pig my car next year after winter storage's hibernation.
i dont think you want to run sunthetic. I have read tons of stuff on this. rotories burn some of the oil, and synthetics dont burn well for some reason. All i have ever used in castrol gtx 20w50. good stuff. know alot of rotary people that use it.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)

THIS is more than you ever wanted to know about motor oil...
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/MODS/ENGINE/OIL/oilfaq.html
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
I chose a middle of the road
I run Castrol 10/30 Syn Blend. Just that Syn Blends are so much more inexpensive compared to straight synthetic and our engines are designed to use oil. Interesting enough, I did read somewhere that it isn't good to do you own blend by doing your own mixing of a bottle of synthetic with a bottle of regular. Something about using different detergents when making synblend.
The idea that synthetics don't burn as well as regular oil is from the very early days of synthetics. Except for with breaking in a new engine, most of your main research types (ie Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, etc) actually endorse synthetics.
The idea that synthetics don't burn as well as regular oil is from the very early days of synthetics. Except for with breaking in a new engine, most of your main research types (ie Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, etc) actually endorse synthetics.
Originally posted by rx74prez
i dont think you want to run sunthetic. I have read tons of stuff on this. rotories burn some of the oil, and synthetics dont burn well for some reason. All i have ever used in castrol gtx 20w50. good stuff. know alot of rotary people that use it.
i dont think you want to run sunthetic. I have read tons of stuff on this. rotories burn some of the oil, and synthetics dont burn well for some reason. All i have ever used in castrol gtx 20w50. good stuff. know alot of rotary people that use it.
Natural oil has stuff that time and nature put tere. It has no pourpose with our needs.
Synthetics however don't have much of anything that doen't involve lubrication. It doen't break down like natural oil does. It holds its film strength better than natural. and it burns better. this is exactly what our motors need.
20w50 is overkill for a street motor that doesn't haul. If you are racing it great, but a regular street motor only needs 5w30 thru 10w40. thin for cold, thick for hot.
Comsumer reports can back everything up on this
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
10W40 is ***.
From the link I posted earlier...
Use at your own risk.
From the link I posted earlier...
In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.
I mainly use sugar water in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer! For christ sakes. 10w-40, 20w-50, whatever just change the ****. At ever 2-3k a change; it doesn't matter that much! In my '86's manual it only has charts, and doesn't recommend a certain weight. I use 10w-40 haven't had a problem, ever! Then again with the massive power of an N/A rotary I'm not to worried. For a turbo such as yours I'd use 20w-50, but don't over analize it. Please
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6
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From: collierville tn
types of oil
tried to find the sight that had good info on this but lost it.but I agree with rx74prez this article said synthetic oils do not burn as well as reg oil and the rotary engine does need to burn oil with the combustion process.
I love sunthetic oils but, not in my rotarys. I use it in every thing from 14,000 rpm supper bikes to my mower. Rotarys have ben running perfect with out sunthetic oil from the start. If it's not broke don't fix it.
Originally posted by Matlock
I mainly use sugar water in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer!
I mainly use sugar water in the winter and 10w-40 in the summer!
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ncds_fc
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Aug 15, 2015 10:06 AM
KAL797
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Aug 11, 2015 03:47 PM



10w30 is fine, unless you are in an always cold or ways hot enviroment.

