I'm gonna start pre-mixing my S4. Now, on a two cycle engine, you're suppose to mix 2.6oz of two cycle oil for every gallon of gas. Is this the same for rotary or should I be running a different ratio?

 

This has all be covered before. Try searching "premix ratio".

 

Why didn't you just tell him?

I use around 1 oz per gallon, which is a bit liberal.

I do not have the omp lines connected.

 

If u keep the OMP use about 4-8oz for a full tank of gas. Thats what I do.

 

I put in 12oz. every time I fill up, and usually when I fill up its around 10.5 to 11.5 gallons, so I'm running a rich ratio... Most people do 1oz. per 1 gallon

 

Because he'll learn a lot more if he searches?

 

still attempting to nail a perfect ratio for our S4's...I'm at around 85:1...still no smoke...12oz per 8 gal or so...still need to run through another couple of fillups to verify this, but so far I'm averaging .2 gal LESS gas on every fillup (which I do at about 1/2 tank, 200 miles), which translates into better gas mileage compared to the 100:1 ratio I was using...IMO, 1oz per gal (128:1) is pushing the limits for engine lubrication with no OMP...

 

I poured like 8 ounces in my car this weekend. The OMP shoudl be in perfect working order but I'm not taking any chances for the first week or two on my rebuild.

 

Thanks dudes lol. I read the searches and with properly working OMP, then 1/2 oz per gallon is cool. So that's what Im gonna mix. I usually fill her up with 10.5 gallons, so I'll premix 6 oz. Should or Can I premix MMO treatment with 2 cycle also?. MMO states a mix of 4 oz per 10 gallons of MMO, can I mix
MMO(4oz)-2cycle(6oz)-Conventional Oil(150:1 ratio) and gas in the combustion chamber?

Also, I just changed my oil today and I added 4 quarts of oil and 1 quart of MMO. Is that cool, should I still premix?

Damn, ******* cars are so weird lol.

 

WHY did you add MMO to the ENGINE OIL?

 

Why not?

 

Digi7ech, actually during a breakin of a rebuild that runs premix I do not run any for the first 500-1000 miles. During breakin, you WANT seals to wear...that's what breakin is.

I'm breaking in the convertible's new engine with no premix right now.

 

sa22c drifter- you stumped me on an intelligent answer to the "why not"...I'm still researching the MSDS- so far I've found out that the flash point of MMO is 142F- well below what the engine oil's flash point is...I'll keep searching...

 

???? im so confused right now. In the back of the bottle it says it's safe to use a quart of MMO in the crankcase as long as you dont overfill. The 13b takes 5 quarts of oil, so I put 4 and 1 of MMO. Didn't overfill??.

 

Because it would thin the motor oil out?

 

O.K., here we go- the main ingredients in MMO are 1)mineral spirits, and 2)naptha hydrocarbons...not exactly what you'd want to lubricate your engine
ALSO, KEVIN- so you run the engines DRY for break-in? what about the friction/ heat produced?

 

I don't run premix on engines that are getting premix. The omp/premix is only necessary to prevent excess apex seal wear, and has no impact on temperature or anything else.

You could run a rotary with no omp/premix, ever, and it'd go 20k+ miles before it wore out apex seals prematurely. The OMP system was an afterthought, not part of the original design of the rotary, you know. IT is necessary for long term engine life, but it is a way to "cheat" during breakin.

What, you think I'd screw up one of my customer's engines, or even my own, if there were any problems involved?

 

so kevin,
currious how long would you run without an omp, or premix on a new engine for break in?
Thnx

 

I'm not questioning your dedication to your customers' engines, LOL, you're a top-notch guy that's an asset to the rotary community... just the reasoning behind running her dry to force a faster breakin...after all, we're still talking about metal rubbing on metal, at high velocities and high temps...would you run a piston engine with no lubrication for a breakin (I can almost hear the rings against the cyl walls squealing in my head)....

 

Dude, there is lubrication, from gasoline being injected. At least to a degree, anyway. Like I said, the OMP was a necessary adjustment toward the end of the rotary's develpmental stage, necessary over the LONG TERM to extend apex seal life. A few hundred miles isn't much to a hardened apex seal, when it is gliding across a polished/coated surface.

I know you're thinking that the gasoline has burned away by the time the engine reaches the second half of the power "stroke" and exhaust 'stroke". IT is in these areas that wear is always highest, and breakin is the most necessary, so this works to our advantage anyway. You think the tiny bit of OMP/premiox oil that gets injected is still around by then anyway? Not likely.

 

I do it for 1000 miles or so, and my guestimate is that this is roughly equivalent to 2000 miles of normal breakin with oil being injected.

 

Well, you da man on rebuilds, so I'll "input" the info- I'm doing my rebuild in 4 weeks...BTW, the new rotor housing internal surfaces don't look too "polished" to me, and I would think a lot of compression would be lost without SOME lubricating film in there...

 

Well, you're welcome to your opinions, and methods, as am I. There is no way to obtain hard data, neither of us have the resources to build tens of test engines and vary conditions and then do teardown and evaluations, so we may never know for sure.

 

without running additional lubrication for 1000 miles would you run both mop and premix, or simply stricly premix? I am intrigued by this bcause I had this thought a while back!

 

Ok, what about those of us that DONT have rebuilds?. I just recently used MMO after reading the tons and tons of forum members that were using it, AND, had positive results. Now you're saying that MMO is bad?. What the **** man, im kinda pissed here lol.