power steering removal
#1
power steering removal
I pm'd 1987RX7GUY after he had asked how I removed my p/s. This is how I DID IT...this is not necessarily the PERFECT or RIGHT way..but it worked for me...without harming my handling what so ever...it works awsome...the only noticable difference is at a dead stop its harder to turn..once you start rolling..its awsome..fell alot more in contact with the road.
I know EXACTLY what you mean about never getting your question answered about the p/s removal!! When I was looking around to figure out how I was gonna do it, I got 50 different ways from 50 different people...and most were from people who had never really done it. Heres what I did:
Removed the pump and lines going to pump...I was unable to get 2 of the lines disconnected at the pump, so I just cut them..theres a total of 3 lines...feed, return, and a cooler line. With the pump out of the way...follow the lines down to the steering gear...and loosen them..you can now get rid of the feed and return line and toss em...now..the cooler line..this line goes from the pump down and around under the bumper..then back to the steering gear. Unbolt the cooler where it mounts to the frame..then off the steering gear at thats gone. Now..with the bolts you removed from the gear....run to the hardware store and just buy some solid bolts of the same size..feed and return are the same size, but the cooler bolt is bigger. Now...before you put the bolts in...turn the wheel from lock to lock several times....to remove all the fluid you can..some WILL remain...this is good..it will lubricate the racks internals...now you can put the bolts in..get em tight...and your done! It feels alot tougher to turn from a stop..but feels great as SOON as you start to roll..I love it...fell alot more in contact with the road.
I know EXACTLY what you mean about never getting your question answered about the p/s removal!! When I was looking around to figure out how I was gonna do it, I got 50 different ways from 50 different people...and most were from people who had never really done it. Heres what I did:
Removed the pump and lines going to pump...I was unable to get 2 of the lines disconnected at the pump, so I just cut them..theres a total of 3 lines...feed, return, and a cooler line. With the pump out of the way...follow the lines down to the steering gear...and loosen them..you can now get rid of the feed and return line and toss em...now..the cooler line..this line goes from the pump down and around under the bumper..then back to the steering gear. Unbolt the cooler where it mounts to the frame..then off the steering gear at thats gone. Now..with the bolts you removed from the gear....run to the hardware store and just buy some solid bolts of the same size..feed and return are the same size, but the cooler bolt is bigger. Now...before you put the bolts in...turn the wheel from lock to lock several times....to remove all the fluid you can..some WILL remain...this is good..it will lubricate the racks internals...now you can put the bolts in..get em tight...and your done! It feels alot tougher to turn from a stop..but feels great as SOON as you start to roll..I love it...fell alot more in contact with the road.
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inferiour (12-04-23)
#2
What year is your car? What size tires are you running? Do you really have to muscle the car in a parking lot? My daily driver (a Saturn) has no p/s. And so does my old truck. I am looking to get rid of as much weight and HP drain as I can...
#5
muscle it.. no..if I tried..I could do it with one hand..but with two hands, its not DIFFICULT at all...it is alot harder than a non manual rack...I have not got irritated with it one bit...I happen to like it alot...I guess its all about preference...my main reason for doin' it was I like the feel of non p/s..and engine bay room (and my p/s stopped working...and I've read the biggest acessory hp robber is p/s..but I didnt notice any BIG diff motor wise, maybe a bit faster revs.
Last edited by marcus219; 03-03-03 at 09:51 PM.
#7
the non fuctional power steering to my fully removed p/s..yeah...theres a diff..its harder with everything gone I think..but not a huge difference..to tell u the truth..i dont completely remember..I love that way it feels now..and I personally dont think its annoying AT ALL...except when your like parrael (sp) parking..but i dont find it annoying...its just tougher...no biggy...
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#8
just to add my support i did it too. i like it much better now. It is a little harder when stopped, and at very low speeds, but it doesnt bother me at all. (im pretty strong tho..) but at above 5 mph it is a vast improvement imho.
much more feedback u really feel the road, no more granny car.
no it does not make ur car much faster. there is maybe a 1 or 2 hp gain and u lose 50 lbs if u take out the ac too. no big deal.
the best ting about this project is the extra room u have when u are done. it is totally amazing. guaranteed to make ya smile.
ps if u loop the feed and return hoses instead of plugging em it makes it a little easier to steer.
just my $.02
-Pat
much more feedback u really feel the road, no more granny car.
no it does not make ur car much faster. there is maybe a 1 or 2 hp gain and u lose 50 lbs if u take out the ac too. no big deal.
the best ting about this project is the extra room u have when u are done. it is totally amazing. guaranteed to make ya smile.
ps if u loop the feed and return hoses instead of plugging em it makes it a little easier to steer.
just my $.02
-Pat
#11
size bolts...somebody else asked me too..I forgot..Just take the bolts you remove from the steering gear out and take them to hardware store to get them. The feed and return bolts are the same size, but the cooler one is bigger. We have a place called Tacoma screw here, you just give em the banjo bolts and tell em' you want them in just solid bolts..and they come walking back with the right sizes..love that place..no labor involved. hehe.
as for rather having the manual rack...probably...if my car had it in the 1st place..or if i had time to kill to install it..but the labor is much more intensive. If I had it at the shop..with a hoist...air..sure..but from lock to lock the power steering rack is shorterI guess..but I dont think that makes a diff. unless your into autox...
as for rather having the manual rack...probably...if my car had it in the 1st place..or if i had time to kill to install it..but the labor is much more intensive. If I had it at the shop..with a hoist...air..sure..but from lock to lock the power steering rack is shorterI guess..but I dont think that makes a diff. unless your into autox...
#13
I did it all while I was down to my bareblock...porting manifolds...replacing PD...vacc. lines...gaskets..
The most irritating thing was the damn a/c compressor. My a/c works awsome..but it gets in the way so much, I thought about ripping the **** out and shooting it with a 12 guage. I finally got it rigged up good, tied it with speaker wire so it was being pulled towards firewall. I'd say...your basic person whos good with wrenching on cars..2-3 hours maybe not rushing. Not a big deal..getting the bolts might be a pain in the ***..some might say that long..some short...but ofcourse..it always seems to run into irritating things that need to be removed or moved so you can work wighout popping a blood vessel. It was pretty easy ****.
The most irritating thing was the damn a/c compressor. My a/c works awsome..but it gets in the way so much, I thought about ripping the **** out and shooting it with a 12 guage. I finally got it rigged up good, tied it with speaker wire so it was being pulled towards firewall. I'd say...your basic person whos good with wrenching on cars..2-3 hours maybe not rushing. Not a big deal..getting the bolts might be a pain in the ***..some might say that long..some short...but ofcourse..it always seems to run into irritating things that need to be removed or moved so you can work wighout popping a blood vessel. It was pretty easy ****.
#15
only took me an hour or so. but if u remove the ac you need to go get it drained first like a responsible person. (note- if ur an *** and don't get it drained then dont breathe the **** that comes out)
-Pat
-Pat
#16
what does it take to get these threads stickied or archived..whatever they do with em' so others can refer to them...think the write up is worthy? if not...someone else should make one..
#18
Originally posted by silverrotor
Cool. Thanks for the responses. What size bolts were used for plugging In the existing holes? I'm not Interested In looping the hoses together.
Cool. Thanks for the responses. What size bolts were used for plugging In the existing holes? I'm not Interested In looping the hoses together.
As for my opinion: One day when I ripped my engine out the pumps were getting in the way and pissed me off. I proceeded to rip both out (to my surprise my ac system was empty anyways!) and throw them in the garbage. I can turn my wheels from a stop (215 up front) on dry pavement with one hand and not really trying.
Last edited by dr0x; 03-05-03 at 08:31 PM.
#20
Originally posted by dr0x
I believe they were m12, I forget the thread pitch. Probably 1.25 or 1.5.
As for my opinion: One day when I ripped my engine out the pumps were getting in the way and pissed me off. I proceeded to rip both out (to my surprise my ac system was empty anyways!) and throw them in the garbage. I can turn my wheels from a stop (215 up front) on dry pavement with one hand and not really trying.
I believe they were m12, I forget the thread pitch. Probably 1.25 or 1.5.
As for my opinion: One day when I ripped my engine out the pumps were getting in the way and pissed me off. I proceeded to rip both out (to my surprise my ac system was empty anyways!) and throw them in the garbage. I can turn my wheels from a stop (215 up front) on dry pavement with one hand and not really trying.
#22
I did a search under "Power Steering". After 5 pages I got bored...I couldn't find the neccesary sizes. When I come around to removing the PS, I'll post the sizes needed so one can undertake this removal with confidence and not have to worry If the bolts wont fit with the Hardware Store being closed simultaneously.
#24
Want free mods? Take all of the weight out of your car that you possibly can. If you can remove 250 pounds it has the same effect as adding 50 hp. Weight kills performance. All these guys who go putting big amps and stereos and wings and stickers and spoilers and HEAVY wheels on their cars make me laugh. They are actually SLOWING their cars down. Chuck the jack, lug wrench, and spare tire and get a can of fix-a-flat and carry a cell phone. You will save 50 pounds and you wont hear that goddamn jack rattle! Lose the main cat, install a "test pipe", the car will run exactly the same but you save 60 pounds. And on and on....
I am looking for a pair of doors with manual crank windows. That power crap is heavy!
I am looking for a pair of doors with manual crank windows. That power crap is heavy!