ok.. what are the result of a certain retard or advance on the cas. combustion wise how will it affect the engines performance when its fully retarded or vice versa-fully advanced.. i dont have a test light right now. but i noticed that i seem to loose a little power when i move the cas toward the radiator.. (is this retard).. and seem to pull alittle more when adjusted towards the firewall..(Is this advance).. i need some light of guidnce. please help.. my motor is old. and i dont wanna hurt it more..

 

well just look at it this way. retard = less power+less chance of detonation advance=more power+more chance of detonation,

do you physically understand how the concept of changing your timing works on the engine???

if you dont understand the concept i suggest you leave it alone....

Justin

 

well see the previous owner had it set almost full retard when i got the car.. and so far i dont have a timing gun to set it to like stock position.. ohh by the way. can someone tell me how to use the gun.. i know a bit about ignition, and electricals. but timimg is something ive on dipped my foot into.. so i need all the tips io can ghet....thankx for the reply

 

The Factory Service Manual for 89 +. Section F1 page 15 provides timing instructions/adjustment.

 

there should be a mark on it for the "nuetral" setting at 0 degrees... Justin

 

my mark on my pulleys has disappeared (or it's covered by dirt, I dunno).. kinda makes it tough to time the sucker

 

how would I advance the timing on my 86' a rex, not much, just to gain a few horses.

 

If you do a search on the forums for timing, you'll find somethin on how you can time the car w/o a timing light, which is essentially what you will need to do, seeing as a timing light is no good without corresponding timing marks... but I'll try and save you some search time and recall...

If you remove the CAS (held in by one bolt and a connector), you should line up the indentation on the shaft with the indentation on the gear (located on the bottom of the CAS). Remove the top black cover of the CAS (held in place by two screws (which for me were a bitch to get out)), and note in the internals which tooth (I think there are 22 of them?) is algined with the stationary arrow on the interior wall of the CAS. This is where you want that tooth to be aligned with the cas in the car in order to have stock timing, so...

Leave the top off, and slide the CAS back in place in the engine. Note that the tooth which was previously aligned with the arrow has moved from its former (correct) position. Thus, rotate the CAS until it is once again aligned in the position you originally noted and your car will be pretty well-timed. The person who used this method before (HAILERS, I think), said your timing will be within a couple degrees, and when I used this method, My timing was about a millimeter of CAS rotation out of time. It's really easy, took about 5 or 10 minutes. Not bad.

Good luck,
Eric

 

i can't read ryandoggs posts, that hideous avatar staring at me is freakin me out.

 

how is all this going to line up with the ENGINE though.. the CAS is a completely separate unit, and if by chance it doesn't go back in the engine at the same point it came out at (maybe the engine rotated, or what not.. not that it should, but you understand).. then I'm in trouble.

 

Just recently redid mine to help get my new T-II running.

Clean all the crap off the main pulleys. On the rearmost pulley there will be two marks (yes the paint was worn off mine too but they are also indentations into the rearmost edge of the main pulley) Do as stated above with the cas and align the engine (turn it by hand until the mark on the pulley (forgot which one) is lined up with timing peg on block)

This is real hard to explain without pics...........easiest way is spend the $20 and get yourself a haynes manual, that's what I used to check mine and it works great.

zub