First of all, by asking this question, it implies that I have searched already and found nothing.


Does anyone have a writeup or a link to a writeup on how to wire open the 5th and 6th ports on a 91 N/A?


dont tell me to search

 

You take some wire.......you take some six ports. - so simple

 

thank you for your intuitive input

 

Seriously, it is jsut that simple. Push them both down as far as they go, and wire some wire around them so they stay ALL the way down!

-Daryl

 

I get the whole point of that but perhaps I should clarify. What do I actually wire and wire it to? Should I wire the actuator arm(on the port not the dashpot) to that stopper metal thing?

 

You can use zip-ties too...You can also remove the sleeves. Why are you tying your 6-ports? Are you running a free-flow exhaust?

 

If you are looking for a cheap no fuss, no muss way of keeping them open: Insert one of those 3/16 plastic barbed pipes into the hose coming off the back of the airpump and run a vac hose off that pipe to the feed pipe for the actuators. Any time you have the engine running the actuators will be open. Works on a 86-88, should work on a 89 and up. No tie wraps or wire required. No disassymbly required. Barbed pipes can be had at PepBoys, their made by Vactite, I believe.

 

Sounds Good. Was outside testing the six ports with a buddy, seems that they are stuck in the Open position already! tied them just in case. Yeah I am running a Racing Beat header and a custom main cat replacement pipe.

 

I'm just curious as to what this is supposed to achieve. You don't get any more airflow at high rpm (they'd be open anyway) and at low rpm when there's less airflow you're dropping port velocity, affecting fuel mixing and (I would've thought) dropping torque. Does this really have any effect? Anyone dyno'd before and after? Please educate me.

 

the way i did it was take the actuators off rubber band the ports open then get some wire to wire them open its a lot easier like this. oh yeah its either a 8mm 10mm or 12mm socket i forgot the size but you will notice a difference at high rpms

 

I just posted because the one piece of vac hose and the one plastic barb is a unique way of opening the ports for whatever reason and can be undone in , oh, say fifteen seconds. Just another method. Everyone who has one of these cars has wondered at one time or the other what it would feel like to have them open, and this is the cheapest and easiest way to do it, plus you avoid the chance of messing up the gasket on the actuators.

 

You are right on the money, wiring them open is stupid since you have no intake velocity down low which equates to less torque.

I've raced a friend a while back with wired open everything VDI and aux ports. I smoked him off the line but he did catch up since I had a stock exhaust and he had a Racing Beat system.

The only time wiring all this open is acceptable is in road racing. You most likely will be shifting up high and once the car is moving, you will probably spend little if any time below 5000 rpm.

 

For the argument that wiring the ports open is stupid:
If they aren't opening in the first place, obviously there will be a margin of improvement. If they are functioning correctly, don't mess with them unless they're coming out completely. Mazda engineers weren't brain dead. Let's think for a moment. If one has non-functioning (stuck closed) 5th and 6th ports one will have decent low-end torque but will have a lacking top end. Wiring the ports open nets a loss of low-end torque but more than makes up for the loss with a definite top-end increase--which is where the rotary makes power anyways! With an open header I can pull cleanly from 0-90 in 3rd gear. It pulls plenty hard for short-shifted city driving!

 

There are generally 2 schools of thought on this argument. People have dyno'ed and came up with mixed results...There is an excellent thread on the subject...https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=6ports

Me, I am gonna use a method that HAILERS suggested, which basically involves tapping into the airpump and using an electronically controlled vacuum actuator.

Rat

 

SPLORTCH......I just gotta get me a digital camera. Really sharp pictures on this site. I like the idea of having the actuators work and going out on the road and timing a few runs from say fifty to ninty with them working and then disabling them and doing the same run on the same section of road, same temp, same wind etc. That way YOU know for sure if its worth it or not.
I think one of the reasons for their existence was for giving me something to fiddle with without blowing the car up.

 

I think the sole purpose of the 6-ports is to cause millions of RX-7 enthusiasts countless hours of consternation over what exactly they do....

 

WAIT A SEC!!
Anyways- I don't know if anyone noticed, but the guy who started this post has a 91!! on 89+, the actuators EXTEND to open the ports!!! If this guy wires them with the actuator rods in, he will be wiring them CLOSED!!!

YOU HAVE TO WIRE THEM IN THE EXTENDED POSITION ON 89+
They are reversed from the 86-88, which open in the retracted position.

If your ports are working- don't bother wiring them. If you have an engine which demands more flow, (ported, etc) you can take the sleeves out, which is marginally better than wiring them open (but ONLY ON A HIGHLY MODIFIED ENGINE)

The best solution is to have your functioning 6port sleeves smoothed out, like pinapple racing 6p sleeves.

 

WAIT A SEC!!
Anyways- I don't know if anyone noticed, but the guy who started this post has a 91!! on 89+, the actuators EXTEND to open the ports!!! If this guy wires them with the actuator rods in, he will be wiring them CLOSED!!!

YOU HAVE TO WIRE THEM IN THE EXTENDED POSITION ON 89+
They are reversed from the 86-88, which open in the retracted position.

If your ports are working- don't bother wiring them. If you have an engine which demands more flow, (ported, etc) you can take the sleeves out, which is marginally better than wiring them open (but ONLY ON A HIGHLY MODIFIED ENGINE)

The best solution is to have your functioning 6port sleeves smoothed out, like pinapple racing 6p sleeves.

 

6-port test---
For those with series 5 NA's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, I teed in a pressure gage and blew into the tube to check at what pressure they opened. Then I routed the tube inside with the gage on the end, and did a test drive to see when they opened.
To see the performance difference, I teed a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end a 3rd gear pulls from 1500 to 3500 rpm. The time was more than 1 second faster with the ports closed.

 

How does wiring then open increase top-end airflow when they'd normally be open anyway?! I'm not trying to be argumentative, just make you think about what you are saying, because it doesn't make sense.

 

ok, I am porting my intake next weekend, so all will be off anyway. Should I just go ahead and remove the 5th and 6th ports? I have a cold air box, and will soon have a RB header, midpipe, and single N1 exhaust, if that matters! 91 n/a...

 

1. This post is not to discuss pros and cons, it is to instruct the ignorant on how to perform this procedure.
2. I live at 5k+ rpms, my ports have to be wired open becuase I no longer have the split air pipe coming from the cat(therefore the 6 ports will not function properly, or at all for that matter)

3. Nobody lives in the same location or has the same driving mannerisms, so what is good for you is not necessarily good for me
4. THANK YOU BAMBAM7!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Seriously, this is not to discuss pros and cons, there are currently 3 different threads for that. This is a How-to, and instructional topic thread, if you will.

And also, can others confirm that on the series 5(89-91) that the actuators EXTEND to open the ports, as opposed to retracting?

Just checked the new FSM for 89-91(thank you scottt2) and it basically shows the same diagram as the old FSM

 

Aux ports work on pressure from the air pump on 89+ models, the auctuators have to extend not retract like the 84-88 models

 

on a series 4 engine the ports use backpressure from the exhaust to open them at 3800rpms. If the previous owner drove the car like a grandma, shifting at 3k rpms, then theres a good chance the ports are stuck closed (carbon build up) since they never opened. When they are closed your low end is normal but anything above 3800rpms is crap. Wiring them open = restores power after 3800rpms but you loose some low end power. Thats why Splortch said "Wiring the ports open nets a loss of low-end torque but more than makes up for the loss with a definite top-end increase"

 

So, theoretically, even if i dont have a split air pipe from the cat(which I dont) my six ports should still work?

(They are not functioning properly)