Hi
I have a 89-GTUs with a possibly blown motor so I'm thinking swap JDM TII motor into my car. Motor is from a JDM 90 TII, my plans is to fabricate my own down pipe, fabricate FMIC, Walbro 255FP. I've searched I did find some good results but I'm still unclear on couple things.

1- Do I have to get USDM TII wire harness or I can modify JDM TII harness to make it fit LHD or I can use NA harness(highly doubt it)
2- I will use my NA tranny with better clutch/flywheel, but how much power can my tranny/drivetrain hold?
3- What is turbo boost sensor and what is the function/connection? This is something new to me, I dont hear that terms in 240sx turbo world (had couple turbo s13/s14 before).
4- I will prolly use NA AFM, How much power can it hold?
5- is there any differences between JDM ECU and USDM ECU?
Thanks inadvance for any inputs.

 

1: Modify the existing non turbo harness or get a 89-91 US spec turbo harness.
2: about 150 HP... just kidding- depends on how you drive... 200 HP is considerd the limit
3: The simplest response is that the turbo ECU uses the boost sensor to know how much fuel to inject and how much boost to report on the gauage (there are other things too but the fact that you are asking, means that there is no use explaining them to you).
4: 160hp. You can't use a non turbo AFM with the Turbo ECU you need to use with a Turbo motor.
5: Minor differences related to emissions.

 

1) Get the USDM harness, the NA harness can be used, but search on it (TheSpyder specially).
2) Get a good grippy organic clutch. A puck clutch will tear out the Type M syncros once you start to modify it.
3) I don't quite get that. SOmeone else will answer.
4) You want the T2 afm, NA will let it run, but that's about it. The NA AFM will do nothing but damper performance.
5) I don't beleive so.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

Go there > Tech > Turbo swap.

Kevin always answers this **** better then me.

 

you could use na afm for a bit if you are having a hard time finding a t2 afm...
it will run significantly richer htough

 

Stick with a USDM ECU or be prepared to do some sodering to the JDM ECU...

 

There is no such word as "sodering". If you mean soldering, you're wrong.

 

thanks for the replies, you guys are the best.
I think it would be best for me to buy a whole front clip. The local engine importer sell a jdm TII clip for $2300 with everything attached, should I get that or is it too much? Couple more questions for ya,

1- If I use TII tranny and driveshaft, can I keep my rear or i have to swap to TII rear?
2- With the right tuning, how much power can I get with stock turbo, stock injectors, stock TMIC, upgrade exhaust system(front to back), and more boost?
3- When will I need to play with the timing? What is the affordable timing device on the market? I really hate that topic as I blew up one of my 240sx engine because of boost/timing issues
TIA and sorry for the noobs question as I'm a noobie

 

you either need a custom drivehshaft, or replace the rear end. There are other options as well, but those are the simplest.
Dependent on year of the engine and are you asking for dyno/rear wheel HP or flywheel HP?
You should check the timing when you install the motor. You don't know where it is at.

 

WHP or BHP, doesnt matter, I know how it works. I stated above, the motor from a 90 TII.
about the timing, I'm not talking checking timing or setting timing, I'm talking about retard timing as boost increases. What is the good timing controller (MSD, E-manage, ems etc)?

 

Hmm, I think you need some more research.

Flywheel HP with just an exhaust upgrade you are probably okay to about 225-230 range.

The factory ECU or an aftermarket ECU controls the timing.

Perhaps you are confusing this with some other car? The ECU retards timing as boost increases, as well if it "sees" knock under 4000 RPM.

If you are concerned about detonation, you need to increase fuel, not retard timing. Retarding timing further than the stock ECU does for virtually no upgrades other than exhaust is just throwing away HP.

 

You MUST use a turbo boost sensor with a Turbo ECU. IF you don't and use the n/a boost/pressue sensor, the ECU will see a signal out of the n/a sensor to the ECU that is the equivalant of five to eight psi when the key is just put to ON and engine not running.

That's an easily proven statement. All one has to do is install a n/a sensor on his Turbo car and then look at the needle on the factory boost gauge with the key to ON. It'll almost peg out. OR put a digital meter on the boost input wire of the ECU and read the output and compare it to factory specs.

Personally I'd at least buy the transmission to go with the engine. IF you use the n/a transmission with the turbo engine, you'll have to install a n/a flywheel so you can use the n/a starter and change the front counterweight off the n/a and put it on the turbo to match the flywheel counterweight.

I'm positve about the first statement about the sensor. The second statement I'm ninty percent sure of.

 

excuse me on the sp... I just had to change my ecu chip in my N374 jdm series 5 ecu because it was not running the rear rotor fuel injectors. Search around you will find others having the same problem. When I purchased the engine and ecu it ran just fine, when I made the swap it stopped working right just as other members have had happen to them. I was just giving him a heads up, its a cheap fix only $25 for some ebay ecu chip and some time behind an iron and it works perfect. Now if I only knew why it worked in the half cut and not in my car that would be nice but I guess $25 was not too bad to fix the problem. so.... actually I'm right!

...whats the name of this game again? ... I win!

 

Don't worry, half the forum makes the same mistake. It's a mystery to me...

I stand corrected. You probably should've mentioned it was internal soldering though, since I think most people would assume you meant the external wiring. That's interesting though; I'm sure I've read about people using the J-spec ECU without problems.

So it ran okay on the J-spec loom but not with the US-spec loom? I guess there's a difference in the loom that would cause that. I can't think what inputs (or lark of) could cause that.

What chip was that?

 

sorry for the thread jack but maybe you guys can help... i just got a t2 diff. and the holes dont line up with the n/a driveshaft. Is there a way i can drill the holes and still use the n/a driveshaft ...or should i just get a t2 driveshaft? ( i have a t2 tranny aswell)

 

You need a TII driveshaft.

 

The spline on the t2 and na shafts are different also, not just the diff screw holes.

 

The TII shaft is 3in the NA shaft is 2 or 2.5 in diameter meaning its yokes will not swap on anything.

So a TII shaft can ONLY be used on a full TII drive line.

 

the chip is said to be a Knightsports one, although if it is it is just a coppied version and not the real thing. I can't find any data on this or the real knightsports chip though so if anyone has the specs please share. It works however so I'm not too worried. I bought it from www.mts.net/~chipsale says it removes the rev limiter too but I don't know if thats true, it did remove the rpm buzzer, unless the N374 ecu does not have this feature to begin with.

NZ if you know anything about it LMK. I have also heard of people having no problems at all so its really wierd. I traced back the wires on the JDM TII harness and the S5 n/a harness I converted (real easy just used the vdi wire to control the knock sensor, same pinout on the ecu) and they are all the same just some of the na stuff has to be rewired to control the turbo solenoid and knock sensor... If anyone needs any help just ask and I will be happy to help.

 

I can't offer any explanation. I would've thought a Knightsport chip (real or copy) would be based on a J-spec ECU, not a US-spec one, so it's really odd that it fixed your problem. But like you say, it works...

 

RPM buzzer is built into the tach and gauge cluster. Using a chip would have no effect of the RPM buzzer unless it was changing the way the trailing coil was firing.

 

thanks! one more question ...do you know how many pounds the screw at the end of the yoke should be torqued down? we put it on to tight and the wheels were having trouble spinning